beermelodies

For Beer Geeks And Rock Freaks

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Ex-Grandaddy mastermind, Jason Lytle, relies on beautifully textured symphonic moods and swooning sad-voiced ethereality to reach nirvana. Taking a surrealistic pilgrimage beyond the Flaming Lips astral weeps, Grandaddy’s subtle orchestral provocations attached Lytle’s diligently detailed compositional mastery and gorgeously sequenced keyboard regalia to main comrade Jim Fairchild’s interlaced fuzzy guitar gauze, helping define the minimalist computer-generated rock landscape of the late ‘90s.

Now a venturing soloist after an uneasy breakup with his fellow Californian pals, ex-skateboard pro, Lytle, still manages…

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ELEVATOR BREWERYCOLUMBUS, OHIO

Within walking distance of Barley Brewing, historic former speakeasy, ELEVATOR BREWERY, located in the Columbia Building (built 1897), featured antique ballroom ceiling and religious pane glass windows, July ’04. Its rustic interior perfectly duped old pre-Prohibition atmosphere and the beers flowed from large right side bar with eloquent marble columns.

Quaffed fruit-hopped caramel-coated Vienna-malted Prohibition Amber Lager; ashy soft-watered raisin-chocolate-y Procrastinator Doppelbock; fruity-hopped Necessity IPA; spicy tea-hopped Bleeding Buckeye Red Ale; chocolate-y stout-like Dirty Dick’s Nut Brown Ale; and wood-smoked…

Rating: 2.5

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Wavering Belgian-styled amber-hazed tripel remains indecisive, yet strong, to herbal gin-soaked currant-like finish. Initial vanilla-extracted banana liqueur tease and meager red-fruited nosing abruptly tail off as acidic white-peppered caraway-seeded clove-coriander-spicing tingles scruffy apple tartness and green banana triviality pungently disrupted by musty wild yeast fungi and nasty alcohol-burnt harshness.

Rating: 3.5

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Well-balanced bottle conditioned straw-hazed ‘pale wheat’ ale (celebrating Jersey Turnpike exit) juxtaposes piney floral-hopped lemon-orange zest and mild grapefruit-currant bittering against tangy apricot-apple-tangerine sweetness. Candi-sugared Belgian yeast softens alcohol burn at fruity sherbet finish. White peach, purple grape, and parfait illusions come and go.

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BAVARIAN BARBARIAN WILLIAMSPORT / DUBOISTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA

Opened June ’08 and visited December ’08 with wife, Karen, Williamsport’s newest brewery, BAVARIAN BARBARIAN, is located inside a pristine old car dealership a few blocks south of Bullfrog. Available on draught, at select local bars, or in half-gallon growlers were six worthy brews. An earthen deep-grained assertion anchored each well-crafted selection.

Dry ethanol-fueled gin-soaked First Snow Ale layered cinnamon-nutmeg-ginger-clove spicing above molasses-soaked raisin, sugared fig, and rye bread illusions for woozy seasonal spellbind.

Soft hop-roasted…

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ABBEY WRIGHT BREWINGWILLIAMSPORT / DUBOISTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA

Across the Susquehanna River four miles from Williamsport, Duboistown’s capacious cedar-planked green-trimmed Valley Inn added brew tanks in 2006 and now also operates as ABBEY WRIGHT BREWERY.

Visited April ’08, the rural saloon with octagon-shaped bar, windowed brew tanks, oak tables-chairs, billiard tables, and small stage area is connected to a beautiful banquet space with black walnut-hickory interior and gas hearth.

A certain grapefruit rind bittering, perfect for hop-heads, consumed lively apple-pear-peach-lacquered Alpha Deuce IPA, lemon-limed…

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BULLFROG BREWERYWILLIAMSPORT / DUBOISTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA

First visited home of the Little League World Series at tail end of April ’06 Western Pa. sojourn, putting family up in historic Genetti Hotel’s Bob Hope Suite. Across midtown street in an old red brick building with green awning lied tiny stoic corner tavern, BULLFROG BREWERY, a trusty pub that compared favorably to regarded westerly competitors North Country, Otto’s, and Johnstown.

Opened in ’96, Bullfrog’s exposed ducts, copper tin ceiling and green ‘frog’ walls had…

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WILLIMANTIC, CONNECTICUT

Out of the rural hilly sticks in central Connecticut pops up the small metropolis of Willimantic, home of arguably the best Northeast brewpub, originally visited October ’07. Over a frog-pillared bridge in a historic street-cornered granite-limestone ex-post office, WILLIMANTIC BREWING (formerly Main Street Café) has cozy left side wood bar with eclectic wall-bound specialty tap handles, windowed side tables, and encased brew tanks plus separate right dining area.

Bottled beer selection included amiable local, English, Irish, and Belgian ales.…

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MOAT MOUNTAINWHITE MOUNTAINS, NEW HAMPSHIRE

In a historic 1840 building just outside ski-crazed North Conway midtown in the upper east White Mountain region, well-respected MOAT MOUNTAIN SMOKE HOUSE & BREWING has enclosed side entry patio to mid-sized bar (with multiple TV’s) and large dining facility (visited December ’06).

It was 9 PM when I got to Moat Mountain and my kids were tired so I only bought growlers of bittersweet barley-roasted mocha-nutty caramel-hopped coffee-finishing Square Tail Stout and coarsely nutty maple-sapped…

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WOODSTOCK INNWHITE MOUNTAINS, NEW HAMPSHIRE

20 miles South of Italian Oasis in the heart of the White Mountains lies placid cedar-faced North Woodstock brewpub, WOODSTOCK INN STATION (visited December ’06).

Located behind a nostalgic Victorian country inn, its side-windowed brew tanks (wood-jacketed; stainless steel; brick-based), multiple cozy dining areas, and central low-ceilinged wood paneled bar provide rural splendor. Large menu included well-portioned pizza, steak, seafood, and chicken items while bar fare included frozen margaritas and daiquiris plus transcontinental coffee and mostly excellent brews…

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ITALIAN OASISWHITE MOUNTAINS, NEW HAMPSHIRE

Plainly put, there were three interesting brewpubs running the gamut encircling snowy White Mountain region on December ’06 trip. Located on the second floor above Elephant’s Trunk in bustling mid-state village of Littleton, ITALIAN OASIS RESTAURANT & BREWERY featured inexpensive pub fare, small carpeted seating area, and sled-lined oak bar.

Brew tanks nestled alongside kitchen served unfiltered raw-honeyed wheat-chaffed diacetyl-tinged Oasis Golden Ale, prickly-hopped dry-grained orange-grapefruit-soured Cannon Amber Ale, and soft-tongued barley-stacked licorice-doused walnut-dried ice coffee-finishing…

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RIVER CITY ALE HOUSEWHEELING, WEST VIRGINIA

A few blocks from the Ohio River in the midst of gambling-industrial hotspot, Wheeling, lies red-bricked window-faced RIVER CITY ALE WORKS. Formerly Nail City Brewery, West Virginia’s first brewpub, until a 2003 flood ruined its brew tanks and equipment, this spacious corner restaurant-sportsbar featured large dining space, middle stage area, left side bar (with billiards, bull ride, and several TV’s), and private glass-enclosed room with decent beer can collection (previously built as the brewing station).

On tap…

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