Glorified whiskey-barreled version of full-bodied ‘Gonzo’ pleats cedar-seared bourbon boozing with sweet chocolate-vanilla richness, syrupy molasses-smoked opulence and milked coffee residue. Mildly creamy velveteen texture reinforces heavily lactic flow and charred oats base. Chocolate-caked cocoa powdering surrounds expansive burgundy, sherry, and blackberry brandy ethers. First-rate slow sipper recommended to all porter-stout aficionados.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: FLYING DOG BREWERY, FREDERICK, MD.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: SIERRA NEVADA BREWERY, CHICO, CA.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
Impressively heady second-year collaboration (2011) not far removed from wood-aged stout but listed as American strong ale. Creamy maple and birch syrup provides thick molasses sweetness to naturally carbonated overachiever. Brown sugared toffee-candied Tootsie Roll-like splendor and dark chocolate-y black coffee overtone impact mellow bourbon-port ascension. Black cherry, raisin puree, blackberry and raspberry illusions contrast oats-toasted hop char and black tarred resin. It’s all too much and evolves rather peculiarly, but Big Beer aficionados need apply.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: SHIPYARD BREW. CO., PORTLAND, ME.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
Brazenly engaging purple-browned ‘malt beverage’ christened as a porter/ Scotch ale hybrid never gets bombastic despite saturated mocha fruiting. Initially, coffee-roasted black chocolate dryness and ashen pine-tarred charcoal astringency overwhelm advertised sweet ‘n sour blueberry blot. Bourbon whiskey esplanade reaches sharp cola nuttiness, chafing blueberry pie tartness as well as tertiary blackberry, raspberry and boysenberry pureeing. Confectionery blueberry-jammed blueberry muffin underside, slim bruised cherry wisp, and teensy hazelnut drift likewise affect rich mocha-molasses malting. Imagine a liquid German Black Forest…
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: WOODSTOCK INN BREWERY, NORTH WOODSTOCK, N.H.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
Sublime brown-sugared cinnamon apple sweetness elevated by pumpkin pie spicing and diffuse gingerbread-nutmeg-allspice-cardamom niceties. Sharp-hopped carbolic frisk tingles tongue as cinnamon cider theme increases intensity. Tart Granny Smith apple souring and medicinal cherry coughdrop snip refine frosty autumnal splendor.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: FOUNDERS BREW. CO., GRAND RAPIDS, MI.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
Exemplary Imperial India Pale Ale boasts hefty 86 IBU’s, but intricately-woven fruited hops and fruitier malts conceal sharp juniper bittering and expansive ethanol burn of 9.4% alcohol elixir. Prickly West Coast-styled pine needling saturates ripe peach, pineapple, pear, pink grapefruit and red cherry tang. Creamy crystal malting and sugared almond-pecan glaze contrast floral white-peppered tingle.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: WANDERING STAR BREWERY, PITTSFIELD, MA.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
On tap at Jimmy’s No. 43, smashing Belgian-styled saison utilizes Brassier Dupont yeast to give off proper sour fruiting. Dry white-wined entry picks up lemon-rotted cherry, plum, fig, and prune propensity skewering sweet banana-pureed lemon custard lurk. Ancillary black-peppered orange spicing and mild pekoe tea hint awaken plasticene clay-hopped herbage.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: GOOSE ISLAND BEER CO., CHICAGO, IL.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
Flagrantly sour American wild ale connects white-wined champagne dryness, tannic yellow grape esters, and oaken cherry tartness to bourbon vanilla assertion above funky brettanomyces-laced earthiness. Mouth-puckering cider pungency grazes tertiary white peach cranberry, fig, lime and kumquat illusions. Belgian gueuze-like profile enhanced further by piquant vinegar-soured raspberry vinaigrette acidity and pinot grigio parchedness.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: RADEBERGER BREWERY, RADEBERG, GERMANY
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
Musk-like German pils brings doughy stale-breaded mineral graining to corn-husked lemon rot peculiarity. Sharp Saaz hop grassing subsumes weirdly herbaceous whim and metallic honey-soured apple-peach depletion to wet cardboard backdrop.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: VICTORY BREWERY, DOWNINGTOWN, PA.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
Wondrous updated version of Yakima Twilight (circa 2011) better defined as mahogany-hued Cascadian Dark Ale (or trendy Black IPA). Abundant citrus splurge and resonant stone fruiting more pronounced than blackened hop char. Smooth dark-roasted caramel malting and powdery cocoa acridity harmonize well with grapefruit-soured, prune-stewed cherry-berry conflux. Resinous pine nuts crease burnt toast bottom.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: THOMAS HOOKER BREW. CO., SARATOGA SPRINGS, N.Y.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
Indistinct moderate-bodied copper-toned marzen places thin maibock-like fruited souring next to soapy hop astringency. Blanched orange-tangerine-cherry tartness deadens upon impact and phenol-spiced autumnal foliage lacks resolve. Biscuit-y bottom cracks.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Brewery: CROSSROADS BREW. CO., ATHENS, N.Y.
- Category: Beers A-Z
- Comments: None
On tap at Jimmy’s No. 43, unyielding lemon-seeded grapefruit bittering leads the way above woodsy bark-dried pine grove and resin-hopped lemongrass herbage. Sugary crystal-malted citric candied lemon currying contrasts lemon-peeled grapefruit rind souring. Deep alcohol burnt astringency sidles botanical citron valor.
- Author: John Fortunato
- Category: BEER PUB
- Comments: None
JERSEY CITY’S ZEPPELIN HALL STANDS TALL
Fabulousness is nothing new to Zeppelin Hall proprietor, John Argento. The former owner of New York City’s premier ‘80s nightclub, Danceteria, now runs the Garden State’s largest German biergarten. Including its three-room interior, the 26,000 square foot public house truly does dwarf any competition in both expanse and draught selection.
“Danceteria was more interested in being fabulous than rich,” Argento says as we sit in his loft office. “We were always working on…
