“Sumptuously smooth” 44th annual Xmas Ale may lack capacious distinction of some previous versions, but rounded chameleonic subtleties (though pallid in spots) never fail to engage. Over its peaty chocolate malting, wintry cinnamon-nutmeg-allspice seasoning sedately serenades delicate orange peel sweetness, restrained prune souring, tart raisin stint, wispy banana breading, salted pine nut pinch and mentholated eucalyptus whim.

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