On tap at These Guys, light springtime pale ale brings wispy green tea misting to citric-tart lemondrop hops and honeyed Vienna malts. Sessionable herbal tea fare.
All posts by John Fortunato
VICTORY LIMITED LAGER
On tap at River Of Beer, updated 2016 All Malt Lager stays sessionable as sticky honey malt sweetness enhances perfumed citrus hops. Just too obvious and oblivious style-wise, perhaps.
VICTORY BLACKBOARD DRY-HOPPED BRETT PILS
On tap at River Of Beer, easygoing moderation utilizes subtle bacterial brettanomyces souring to affect light pilsner malts, dry-hopped earthen wood tones and wispy barnyard acridity. Lemony white grape illusions sneak in the back end.
GREAT LAKES TURNTABLE PILS
On tap at River Of Beer, sturdy Czech pils brings earthen grain malt pungency to light herbal-spiced Saaz hop bittering and subtle lemon restraint. Dank corn-flaked spelt, oats and wheatgrass influence affects baked bread spine.
PROCLAMATION ALE COMPANY
WEST KINGSTON, RHODE ISLAND
At a West Kingston-based stone quarry inside an unassuming tan aluminum warehouse lies one of Rhode Island’s most promising breweries, PROCLAMATION ALE COMPANY. Opened for business since January, 2014, the rapidly expanding alehouse, headed by brewmaster Dave Witham, gained immediate attention for its ‘Big Beer from a Small State’ and now bottles several of its exquisite elixirs.
An amber Proclamation sign (below the arched entrance) leads lucky patrons thru a long hallway to a tongue-and-groove wooded tasting room with pine-lacquered bar top, community table, barrel staves, sofa and exposed pipes.
Upon my initial 4 PM May ’16 visit, the small space packs up as several locals stop by to pick up screw-topped jug handled growlers of their favorite brews and a few out-of-towners sample all five available draught selections before deciding on which ones to carryout.
Knowledgeable tasting room manager, Tom Pereira, provides goblets of two fascinating pale ale ‘derivatives,’ one collaborative rye-spiced IPA and a sessionable German-styled pilsner. I’d already tried excellent citric-embittered IPA, Proclamation Tendril (reviewed in Beer Index), at now-defunct Track 84 a year hence.
For starters, Flummox, a traditional Bavarian-styled pilsner, brought crisply clean spelt-dried Vienna malting to its soft grassy-hopped floral citrus sheen, leaving subtle lemon traces in the recess.
Then, two of the best full-flavored East Coast pale ales caught my attention. Sunny fruited spritzer, Derivative: Mosaic Pale Ale, retained a subdued yellow grapefruit tang, zesty lemon brightener and ancillary pineapple-peach-mango-orange juicing above mild dry-hopped pungency.
Even better, modestly complex Derivative: Galaxy Pale Ale had a dryer, danker profile, spreading Galaxy-Citra-hopped tropicalia all over grassy pine resin and fresh celery watering. Its tangy tangerine ripeness picked up lemony pineapple, mango and grapefruit zest.
In collaboration with nearby Tilted Barn Brewery, Rype IPA provided peppery rye malting for its apricot-pureed tartness, fig-dried tangerine snips and teasing herbal lilt.
RIVER OF BEER
BLOOMINGDALE, NEW JERSEY
Coming into existence during the fall of 2015, Bloomingdale’s RIVER OF BEER proved to be a fabulous family affair on my initial May ’16 sojourn. Owned by Fred Soule (whose wife runs the antique shop next door) and featuring his son Dave’s fine craft beer selection (served on this rainy afternoon by Fred’s niece), this friendly neighborhood joint is only three miles from Route 287 on Hamburg Turnpike’s Main Street corrider.
Inside an antique brown Victorian house, River Of Beer’s reminiscent of an Old World Parlor with its vintage front door, custom-designed warmth and cozy pub-styled L-shape bar (with 14 seats, 4 TV’s, well-stocked bottled-canned beer refrigerator, top-shelf liquor, decorative overhead tap handles and small back kitchen). Its delightful upstairs bar matches the first floor’s homey rusticity with its beautiful recycled wood furnishings, barnstable-pitched ceiling, tongue-in-groove pine arches, front corner recliner and love seat (plus the exquisite four tabled widow’s peak).
My wife and I quaff several previously untried brews at the back deck, which is adorned by an awning-covered patio table, a leather-seated wood barrel table, red brick fire pit, porch furniture and beer-bannered wood fence.
As for today’s elixirs, I grab four reliable Jersey suds, a rye-barreled double bock and one choice Milwaukee offering (reviewed fully in Beer Index). Just up the road, Butler’s Ramstein Pale Ale brought lemony spiced hops to the fore. Meanwhile, Little Ferry’s Brix City Gloria Belgian Blonde trickled citrus spritz onto white-peppered hops and candi-sugared malts; Roselle Park’s Climax 20th Anniversary Barleywine retained a soft-toned fig-sugared cherry tang and fruity hop astringency; Atlantic Highland’s Carton Eden Saison, a simple table beer, provided jasmine-flowered grains of paradise tropicalia and herbal lemon tones. Wisconsin’s Lakefront Hop Jockey Double IPA gathered pine-needled grapefruit and mandarin orange juicing to override the crystal-sugared caramel malting.
But today’s finest brew was a specially-made Ramstein Winter Wheat Doppelbock soaked in Dad’s Hat Rye barrels. A true godsend, its smooth rye-dried frontage picked up a large rum-spiced bourbon contingent to elevate the molasses-sugared brown chocolate sweetness, cherry jubilee liqueuring and red grape tang.
Not to be outdone, River Of Beer’s entrepreneurial home brewer, Dave Soule, showed off his brewing prowess with a richly creamed doppelbock (?) full of sugared fig, stewed prune and ripe raisin overtones placed directly above dewy peat earthiness.
To quote soul legend, Al Green, Take Me To The River (Of Beer, that is)!
LAKEFRONT HOP JOCKEY DOUBLE INDIA PALE ALE
On tap at River Of Beer, stylishly moderate Imperial IPA proves highly sessionable as delicate Citra-hopped grapefruit, mandarin orange and pineapple tang picks up caramelized crystal malt sugaring to contrast light pine-needled bittering as well as mild white pepper herbage.
CLIMAX 20TH ANNIVERSARY BARLEYWINE
On tap at River Of Beer, stylistically moderate barleywine stays silken as delicate caramel malting picks up light citric hop astringency to contrast red cherry sweetness and sugared fig resilience. Not as rich, creamy and resilient as brewers’ 15th anniversary celebrator, but ultimately fine nonetheless.
BRIX CITY GLORIA BELGIAN BLONDE ALE
On tap at River Of Beer, understated Belgian pale ale seemingly dupes gose-like beige haze, lemon spritz and salty lime bittering to embed stylish white-peppered grapefruit briskness (and subtle sugar-spiced banana undertones sweetening the back end).
RAMSTEIN PALE ALE
On tap at River Of Beer, 2016-debuted middle-of-the-road Bavarian American pale ale offers perfume-spiced citrus hops to mild earthen astringency. Laid-back lemony grapefruit tang saddles light wood-dried bittering. Serve to dismissive macrobrew relics as simply better alternative.
CARTON EDEN
On tap at River Of Beer, simple moderation works well as a low-alcohol table beer, but its jasmine-flowered grains of paradise adjunct loses luster as white-peppered lemon wisp tingles the tongue ever so gently above light pale malt spicing.
PINELANDS BREWING COMPANY
LITTLE EGG HARBOR, NEW JERSEY
At Little Egg Harbor’s Great Bay Business Park in a beige aluminum warehouse with red awning lies PINELANDS BREWING COMPANY, a nanobrewery looking to expand to a 7-barrel brew system by May 2016. Presently, Pinelands raw space contains an office area, brew tank room and tap room (with slate-topped bar, picnic table, small community table and green-walled beer bottles).
Brewmaster Jason Chapman utilizes exquisite locally sourced water to craft an ever-changing lineup of well-rounded brews. As of my April ’16 one-hour stopover, Chapman’s already created 30-plus elixirs in a few months.
Two fine flagship beers initially caught my senses. Easygoing Pitch Pine Pale Ale brought lemony orange tang to mild leafy hop pungency, subtle pine resin and wispy herbal restraint.
Bright ‘n lively Evergreen IPA bettered Pitch Pine with its crisper clean-watered minerality underlining juicy grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering and woody dry-hopped astringency.
Smoked rye malts and peppery nuances gave Rye Nugget Pale Ale a certain uniqueness as its carbolic spritz tickled the nose while the diacetyl vegetal tinge never seemed out of place.
Coming on like a beefed-up amber ale, perhaps, Sharpshooter IPA provided an apricot tea-like sweetness for caramel malts, leafy hops, dewy peat and dried fig.
Gathering spiced yellow fruiting, caramelized pilsner malts and grassy hops, Bueno Con Taco (a moderate-bodied lager) must’ve been made to go alongside simple Mexican dishes since it’s light flavor doesn’t overwhelm snack foods.
Great Bay IRA (Imperial Red Ale) softened its sharp grapefruit-seeded orange rind hop pining and black tea-like bittering with caramel-roasted amber malt sweetness, tangy peach-apple-grape conflux and crisp tobacco respite.
Perhaps my personal fave, Evan John Porter, let toffee-spiced vanilla bean sweetness pick up sugared coffee, Kahlua, caramel latte, hazelnut, cappuccino and Coca-Cola tones above its dewy earthen base.
Not to be outdone, Zero Shuck Oyster Stout wedged creamy oyster-shelled sinew into black patent-malted dark chocolate, cocoa bean and vanilla overtones and bitter French-roast coffee sedation.
On early March ’22 stopover, snow came down as I indulged in a few more Pinelands libations.
Thin cream ale, Raspberry Jam, found soapy raspberry chalkiness lingering lightly in salty lemon-hopped astringency.
Juicy tropical fruited floral spicing and dry pine resin indulged Imperial IPA, Tucker’s Beacon, unfurling sunny grapefruit, pineapple, peach, orange and tangerine tanginess upon sugared pale malting.
Nitrogenated Evan John Porter added coffee-roasted cocoa bittering to tarry chocolate malting and molasses-draped toffee spicing.
Milk-sugared coffee and dark chocolate syrup graced Cockeyed Milk Stout, leaving wood-seared hops to buttress its molasses oats bottom.
Bettering all of ’em, Gnarly Pine Barrel-Aged Barleywine let caramelized bourbon vanilla drape brown chocolate sweetness, whiskeyed Scotch warmth and toffee-spiced dried fruiting.
www.pinelandsbrewing.com