All posts by John Fortunato

NINKASI BREWING COMPANY

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EUGENE, OREGON

At the outskirts of the most liberal municipality in America, NINKASI BREWING COMPANY thrives at a remodeled Eugene plumbing store since 2006. Formerly located in neighboring Springfield, which currently houses Hop Valley Brewery, this bottling and keg plant in the industrial Willamette Valley also features a very sanitary 18-stool tasting room for the general public, perused December ‘09.

Lively grapefruit peel-embittered, currant-spiced, grassy-hopped, maize-muted Matt’s Autumn Wheat draped orange-tangerine tang over slight metallic astringency. Dry hop-spiced orange-yellow-fruited currant-juniper-embittered Quantum Pale Ale gained floral black tea backdrop. Lighter-than-most, Total Domination IPA worked polite piney grapefruit-orange peel bittering into corn-dried floral spicing and latent mango-apricot-pineapple tropicalia. Roasted oats-flaked Oatis Oatmeal Ale secured black chocolate-cappuccino-espresso triumvirate with tannic grape, walnut, and molasses illusions. Sullen fig-date-soured bock-light Sleighor Double Dark Alt lacked wintry seasoning.

www.ninkasibrewing.com

EUGENE CITY BREWERY

Eugene City Brewery - Eugene, OR 97401
EUGENE, OREGON

During December ‘09s historic Civil War for the Roses between the Oregon State Beavers and the Oregon University Ducks, the two school’s battled it out on the gridiron in Eugene for the chance to go to the Rose Bowl in Pasadena. Afterwards, happy Ducks fans settled in at EUGENE CITY BREWERY to celebrate victory and the Pacific Ten championship.

Co-owned by Rogue Brewery and Eugene City Brewery, this downtown Eugene venue offered 20 great tap beers by Rogue as well as a trio of brewer Nate Sampson’s libations. A cafeteria-styled mid-size space with pictures, graffiti, and basement-level brew tanks, its small back bar had 3 TV’s showing highlights of the big game (the first ever state game in Oregon to decide Rose Bowl consideration in 100 years).

I ordered a salmon sandwich and clam chowder to go with the three light-bodied Eugene offerings – two named after Oregon University’s famed track team. All three are bottled for local consumption as well.

Smooth yellow-orange-red-fruited Triple Jump Pale Ale integrated spiced-hops with light caramel malting.

Tender wheat-soured tangerine-juiced grapefruit-tart coriander-spiced vanilla-glazed Honey Orange Wheat may’ve lacked assertion, but perfume-hopped floral-spiced pine-needled pale-malted 200 Meter IPA efficiently wrapped juniper-currant-grapefruit peel bittering around apple-peach-orange fruiting and doughy white wheat graining.

www.rogue.com

PORTLAND HOLIDAY ALE FEST ’09

 

PORTLAND’S HOLIDAY ALE FESTIVAL ’09 EXCEEDS EXPECTATIONS

By John Fortunato

PORTLAND, OREGON

Featuring vintage versions of so-called Big Beers and boasting the health-conscious slogan, ‘beer is a source of B complex vitamins,’ Portland’s annual Holiday Ale Festival proved to be a fantastic way for a seasoned Jersey swigger to spend a few cold early December days. Held December 2nd to 6th at Pioneer Court House Square in the heart of town, the winter fest (organized by Preston Weesner – pictured below) offered over sixty luxuriously hardy one-time-only winter seasonal beers and ales from the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Ironically, one of the finest and most anticipated libations came from a different Portland cross-country in Maine.

A huge contingent of business professionals, local hippies, football-sized guzzlers, and ‘brew-pies’ (microbrew groupies – see picture of jacketed couple below) gathered under the tents for the festival’s opening day. By nightfall, the canvassed rooms were packed. Happily, getting to the tapped beers was easy, allowing the public to consume $1 four-ounce samplers without waiting on the long lines that often mire overcrowded beerfests. Then again, when word gets out that there’s a barrel of rare aged beer to be tapped, several brew-pies start hovering nearby for a short taste. The obvious thrill is to get a few precious sips of a limited offering before it disappears down someone else’s gullet.

Around 7 PM, several beer geeks and connoisseurs congregated around the far northwest section to try Allagash Curieux, a terrific bourbon-barreled curiosity with Sangria, spiced wine, chai tea, vanilla bean, coconut milk, and white apricot illusions. I’d had it in bottle a year hence, but the tapped version bettered my high expectations. But before our collective thirsts could be quenched, busy events organizer Weesner – in an obvious attempt to consume the bulk – takes a foamy swig, looks down at his cup, and jokingly snickers, “Oh, this is terrible.”

40330023Every beer snob should know Portland, Oregon, is the finest American city for quality brewpubs since there are a baker’s dozen within a five-mile radius. That’s no secret. And many local brewers contributed a fruitful array of Christmas spirits for this merry rendezvous. But I didn’t expect worthy Belgium brews such as sherry-serenaded caramel-candied Dubuisson Freres Scaldi Noel (vintage 2007) and lemon-peppered banana-clove-spiced Saison-styled Dupont Avec Les Bons Voeux Saison or fabulous Eggenberg Samichlaus Doppelbock 2005, a cognac-like 14% alcohol doozy crafted at an ancient Austrian castle (consumed within the event’s first hour). These European brews added a certain flare and provided further depth to an already extraordinary lineup on tap ‘til Sunday.

Truth be known, I was in the midst of a Seattle-Tacoma-Portland brewpub tour and only attended the initial Wednesday presentation and the following days’ afternoon session. But I got to explore a wide variety of flavorful elixirs during this winter solstice celebration, trying out several excellent local brewers’ liquid gold for the first time. Inaugural tastings from Oregonian breweries such as Eugene-based Oakshire, Astoria’s Fort George, Silverton’s Seven Brides, Hillsboro’s Vertigo, and Sisters’ Three Creeks proved meritorious.

For starters, Oakshire Very Ill-Tempered Gnome, a gorgeous brown ale-styled barleywine, pleated perfumed nutmeg-cinnamon-gingerbread spices into brown-sugared macadamia and molasses cookie sweetness countering dry walnut bittering. Next up, Fort George North III Belgian Tripel brought honey-malted maple-syrupy sugar plum and dried fig illusions to oak-spiced niceties. Seven Brides Drunkel Strong Ale evenly spread dried fruits above coffee and black chocolate overtones. Vertigo Arctic Blast Vanilla Porter stayed robust as its vanilla-chocolate ice cream frontage crept into sharp hop-spiced toasted coconut illusions. Not to be outdone, Three Creeks Rudolph’s Imperial Red placed cinnamon apple spicing atop sharp-hopped fig-prune illusions and latent bourbon warmth.

State capital, Corvalis, flaunted Block 15 Restaurant & Brewery’s Oaked St. Nick, a bourbon-barreled beauty with dark rum warmth plus wintry cinnamon-nutmeg spicing grazing raisin puree, brown chocolate, vanilla, pecan, and praline illusions. Perfect for any occasion.

What truly sets Portland’s Holiday Ale Festival apart from other more massive brewfests is not only the easy access and reasonable pricing, but also its sheer profundity. There are no weak pilsners or wavering pale ales to be found, just a bunch of shrewdly handcrafted ‘Big Beers’ labeled thusly due to heady alcohol prevalence, robust full-bodied ebullience, and expansive stylistic range.

A true fest favorite was rummy whiskey-bent coffee-roasted espresso-milked Kona Da Grind Buzz Kona Coffee Imperial Stout, a post-noir Hawaiian dessert beer amplified by brown chocolate-y macadamia-hazelnut intrigue, toasted almond-coconut swagger, and sweet vanilla piquancy.

Better still, California’s Bear Republic Barrel Aged Old Baba Yaga Imperial Stout, aged in French oak cabernet barrels, tendered bourbon boozing for smoked chocolate malting, dark-spiced raisin pureed prune souring, and black cherry smear.

Another fave was Walking Man Ho Ho Homo Erectus Imperial Double India Pale Ale (2006) from nearby Stevenson, Washington. Its up-front rum warmth deepened syrupy whiskey malting saddling raisin, prune, bruised banana, and overripe apple tones.

Afterwards, I drove two-hours south to Eugene, America’s most liberal college town, to see who’d win what was defined as the Historic Civil War for the Roses, a back-and-forth gridiron battle between Oregon and Oregon State for Rose Bowl consideration against Ohio State. I also met a few herbal cultivators who’d make my drive back to Seattle that much easier. Remarkably, on the way northward, I stopped at Portland’s Amnesia Brewery and found iconic Rogue brewer John Maier sitting at the bar enjoying a few brews before completing my journey to Seattle-Tacoma Airport. Six years earlier, Maier and company put my wife and I up at one of their brewpub loft apartments. He remembered and I thanked him. What a trip!

Here are some more recommended beers, listed alphabetically by brewer, served at Portland’s Holiday Ale Festival – 2009:

 

Alameda Papa Noel’s Moonlit Reserve (Portland, Oregon) – Oak-aged winter warmer with cinnamon-nutmeg spicing had bittersweet mocha-backed dried fruit enticement.

Bayern Face Plant Doppelweizen (Missoula, Montana) – Another fine Bavarian-styled beer from Big Sky Country brewer, this dark wheat bock kept earthy mineral-watered peat-y funk up-front trailed by mocha-spiced ginger tea illusion.

Black Diamond Winter (Walnut Creek, California) – Candi-sugared Belgian malting upends hop-spiced gingerbread, raisin, plum, prune, and cherry variance.

Cascade Drie Zwarte Pieten Barrel-Aged Sour Ale (Portland, Oregon) – Tart bing cherry-fruited pinot noir-barreled whiskey-bent Flanders-styled Red Ale offers dry-hopped cherry pie theme saddling white wine, vinous cider, and port undertones.

Deschutes Lost Barrels of Mirror Mirror Oak-Aged Barleywine (Bend, Oregon) – Dark-spiced candi-sugared brown chocolate, butterscotch, and crème de cocoa illusions adorn candied apple sweetness.

Firestone Velvet Merken Oatmeal Stout (Paso Robles, California) – Barley-roasted cocoa-buttered black chocolate-y frontage reinforced by chewy caramel malting.

Golden Valley Barrel-Aged Tannen Bomb Winter Warmer (Mc Minnville, Oregon) – Oaken pinot noir-barreled seasonal retains creamy brown-sugared white chocolate, vanilla, and butterscotch accord above rummy sugarplum-raisin-date illusions.

Hair Of The Dog Jim -2009 (Portland, Oregon) – Astounding Strong Ale leaves butterscotch, brown chocolate, and cocoa powder traces upon ripe apple-peach-pear-cherry fruiting, cinnamon-spiced raisin puree trail, and dessert-like barleywine finish.

Kona Black Sand Porter (Kona, Hawaii) – Soft-watered bittersweet chocolate dryness capsizes dark-spiced hazelnut-macadamia influence.

Laughing Dog Chocolate Huckleberry Stout (Ponderay, Idaho) – Nutty bitterness pervades chocolate-covered dark-spiced raspberry, blueberry, and huckleberry tones usurping black cherry reminder.

Old Lompoc Brewdolph (Portland, Oregon) – Sugarplum-spiced Belgian-styled Red Ale places ripe cherry above mocha-malted cinnamon-nutmeg-allspice-clove contingent and rummy bruised banana snip.

Widmer Collaborator Sled Crasher Winter Warmer (Portland, Oregon) – Spruce-tipped candi-sugared nutmeg-cinnamon spicing reaches chocolate-covered black cherry midst as macadamia-hazelnut-cola illusions counter peat-y earthiness.

 

-John Fortunato

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ENGINE HOUSE NO. 9 BREWERY

E9 Firehouse & GastropubEngine House No. 9
TACOMA, WASHINGTON

After leaving Puget Sound-sited Harmon Pub, took the two-mile journey up the hill to former fire station, ENGINE HOUSE NO. 9 BREWERY & RESTAURANT. A historic Tacoma landmark visited December ’09, brewer Shane Johns keeps patrons comin’ with his healthy selection of barleywines, Belgian-inspired brews, and archetypal American ales.

A red-black courtyard with chairs and tables fronts the red-bricked antique wood-furnished restaurant (with archaic garage doors next to side entrance). Behind the dining area lies the crown jewel, a rustic 10-seat back bar with beautiful wood mural serving Johns’ surefire creations. A private banquet area upstairs adds to the charm. Windowed brew tanks on the attached right side maroon-bricked space served eleven libations this fortuitous autumn afternoon.

Best selections included sweet whiskey-wafted ’04 Barleywine, with its pureed banana-cherry creaminess illuminating candied apple, cotton candy, and coconut oil undertones. Rum-soaked medicinal-strength ’06 Oak-Aged Barleywine gathered butterscotch, almond paste, and bruised cherry illusions. Saison-styled Flemish Sour revealed oaken cherry dryness, white grape tannins, Granny Smith apple tartness, and lime-y cranberry pucker.

Another favorite, simply called Tacoma Brew, saturated grassy Saaz-hopped lemon-seeded orange-peeled bitterness with honey malt glaze. Equally impressive, Ecuadorian chocolate sweetened hop-roasted black cherry fruiting and dry cappuccino finish of mild Chocolate Stout. Coffee-roasted espresso-milked black chocolate-y Porter sufficed.

Onward, subtly fruited Rowdy Dick Amber allowed buttery crystal malts to sweeten lemon custard, green grape, red apple, and tangerine nuances. Both red apple-whiffed soft-watered crystal-malted Scottish Ale and hop-bitten wood-lacquered yellow-red-fruited India Pale Ale hit the stylistic mark.

Lemon-candied souring, subtle orange peel bittering, and grassy-hopped coriander spicing branded Belgian White. Hop-sharpened dried fruits inundated nutty tea-like cocoa malting of Engine House staple, Fire Engine Red.

www.ehouse9.com

NEW OLD LOMPOC

Image result for new old lompoc brew
PORTLAND, OREGON

Within walking distance of Ram’s Head and Laurelwood Pizza Co. on NW 23rd Street, NEW OLD LOMPOC, opened May 2000, exhibited a small neighborhood dive atmosphere during late-morning December ’09 stopover.

Canary yellowed black exterior, remodeled patio, and sundeck bolster cafeteria styled interior (with diminutive central wood bar serving right side dining area typical pub fare). Other Portland-based Old Lompoc-related locations include Hedge House (open December ’03), 5th Quadrant (the northernmost alehouse), and Oaks Bottom Public House (adjacent to wildlife refuge). Christmas seasonals being readied during stopover were Jollybock, Blitzen, Old Tavern Rat, C-Sons Greetings, and Brewdolph. Tried year-round brews Proletariat Red Ale and C-Note Imperial Pale Ale (listed in Beer Index).

www.newoldlompoc.com

PIKE PUB & BREWERY

40330006SEATTLE, WASHINGTON

A red neon sign led me into meritorious PIKE PUB & BREWERY pre-lunchtime, December ’09. Located inside the Puget Sound-sited Pike Place Market on the ground floor below 1st Avenue and within close proximity to the famed fish market, this large open space had a sportsbar atmosphere.

U-shaped bar, polished wood furnishings, black-and-white tiled dining section, and silvery brass brew tanks rising above open-air midsection to second story welcomed patrons. A highly recommended beer museum left of the bar in a separate room gave a sense of brewing history with pictures, diagrams, and writings.

I met a playful Norwegian couple who had facial caricatures drawn to describe the feeling of each Seattle-based beer tried during vacation. I joined in with my own amateurish doodlings while tasting several selections I’d never bought bottled. Mild orange-grapefruit-spiced peppery-hopped Pike Naughty Nellie Golden Ale and white-peppered banana-bruised Pike Weisse merely sufficed.

Better were funky yeast-addled banana-clove-centered black-peppered alcohol-burnt Pike Monk’s Uncle Belgian Tripel, dry banana-fig-date-soured pecan-candied grassy-hopped Pike Tandem Double Ale, and creamy chocolate-fronted black cherry-pureed hop-roasted espresso-finishing dry-body Pike XXXXX Stout. Cask-conditioned Pike Pale Ale matched sugared fig-date frontage to lemon seed run-up and bark-dried rye nuttiness. Lacking wintry wanderlust, Pike Auld Acquaintance Holiday Ale placed crystal malts atop coriander-allspice in a rather nebulous non-seasonal manner.

Anyone visiting Seattle’s downtown must make time for this gloriously ambitious watering hole.

www.pikebrewing.com

HARMON PUB & BREWERY

harmon-tacoma-20141102-078.jpgTACOMA, WASHINGTON

Open since 1997, downtown Tacoma’s HARMON PUB & BREWERY sits across from the Washington State History Museum at Thea Foss Waterway’s Puget Sound base. Visited December ’09, green patio benches at the entrance welcome customers to Harmon’s ski lodge atmosphere.

Skiing paraphernalia bedecks the walls, exposed pipes lend an Industrial feel, and TV’s at all corners capture the eye from right side wood bar. American cuisine menu featured recommended halibut fishwich. Windowed brew tanks behind the bar served two dark seasonals alongside six regular brews.

On the wintry dark side, magnificent Scott’s Puget Creek Vanilla Porter poured creamy vanilla ice cream sweetness atop chocolate-y pecan-hazelnut-macadamia richness and port-burgundy illusions. Nearly as rewarding, Diamond Pete Dry Stout placed hop-charred barley-roasted dark chocolate above cherry-pureed cocoa-chalked vanilla-cappuccino conflux.

Mild-spiced wheat-honeyed cereal-grained Vienna Lager, with its biscuit-y cornbread midst and chestnut-pecan subsidy, bested lemony hard-candied orange-tart wheat-flaked wet-grassed dry body Mt. Takhoma Blonde Ale and mildly vegetal spice-hopped lemon-bruised herbal-tinged apple-orange-fruited Pinnacle Peak Pale Ale.

Malt-soured floral-scented orange-dried honey-nutty Brown’s Point ESB lacked initiative. Genteel in its soft approach, woody-hopped Point Defiance IPA shines grapefruit-centered apricot-apple-pear fruiting across creamy caramel malts.

Creamy mocha-caramelized Puget Sound Porter soaked hazelnut coffee into roasted chocolate, vanilla bean, black cherry, and sour raisin illusions, becoming an instant fave.

www.harmonbrewingco.com

DIAMOND KNOT BREWING COMPANY

40330003MUKILTEO, WASHINGTON

Inside a former bus garage-turned-pub, DIAMOND KNOT BREWING COMPANY became a brewpub during 1993. North of Seattle along the rustic Mukilteo waterfront, this tiny maroon-trimmed hole-in-the-wall alehouse opposite the marina is situated in a wood-beamed brick-floored parlor-styled dining hall with high ceilings and small loft.

The bantam bar space has a TV, as does the tucked-in front dining space across from the kitchen. A great neighborhood bar with beer trays and nautical paraphernalia lining walls, Diamond Knot’s menu included pizza, salad, or surf ‘n turf and its slogan was the brewpub-friendly ‘fermenting change in taste.’ There are also a few local Diamond Knot-related brewpubs (B2 Alehouse; Camano Lodge; Lincoln Avenue).

During late-morning December ’09 taste test, watched the locals (long-suffering local football team, the Seattle Seahawks) defeat horrid St. Louis Rams while sampling a few goodies. Firstly, I decided to have liquid breakfast, sipping sweet pinkish opaque dessert treat, Wyder’s Raspberry Cider, an easygoing red apple-ripened cranberry-tart berry-soured winter warmer.

A well-rounded tap selection of homebrews made my stay highly memorable. Silken lemon meringue-y cinnamon-ginger-spiced gourd-daubed nitro-injected Stingy Jack’s Pumpkin and banana-fronted vanilla-backed cinnamon-spiced caramel-malted cherry-tinged Industrial Ho Ho Winter Warmer brought about Seasons Greetings.

For the semi-exotic Hefeweizen, perfumed banana-clove subtlety gets overrun by cinnamon-spiced apple-pumpkin sweetness and heather-softened chamomile-mint freshness. Using a pre-Prohibition lager recipe, soft rye-influenced yellow-fruited corn-sugared Summer Blonde proved soothing. Caramel-malted black tea-embittered pumpernickel-tinged phenol-spiced aspirin-wafted E.S.B. and nebulous hazelnut-spiced mocha-wavered herbal-honeyed Brown Ale whet my appetite for heartier servings. Dry-roasted coffee-burnt hazelnut-teased Possession Porter and soft Irish-styled barley-flaked cream-sugared nitro-injected Steamer Glide Stout easily sufficed.

But hopheads were not to be denied, as there were three fine India Pale Ales available. Lighter thirsts will choose butterscotch-candied apple-sugared honey-spiced banana-pear-nectarine-cantaloupe-dangled Shipwreck XXX over richer hop-fueled tangerine-peach-spiced apple-ripened alcohol-burnt pine-finished Industrial X IPA and woody-hopped light-spiced yellow-fruited apple-candied pear-browned India Pale Ale.

Unafraid to give nearby competition an even chance, Gig Harbor’s 7 Seas British Pale Ale offered amiable orange-soured floral-spiced crystal-malted apple-grape fruiting.

www.diamondknot.com

ELLIOTT BAY BREWERY

SEATTLE, WASHINGTON

In the post-Industrial downtown section of West Seattle, ELLIOTT BAY BREWERY hosts varied clientele at its charmingly elegant upscale space, visited December ‘09. Two park benches at the entrance welcome patrons to glass door of beige building (featuring brewers’ signifying seaworthy murel). Bar at left (with two TV’s) opposes wood-furnished dining area of narrow brick-walled interior. Abstract paintings adorn the walls and beer banners hang from the ceiling where exposed pipes suspend. The small loft area in the rear brings expanse.

World War II Blues played in the background while I sampled eight diversified offerings. Soft lemon-bruised grapefruit-tart coriander-spiced woody-hopped wheat-blanched Luna Weizen and hop-spiced mineral-grained pine-nutty red-fruited caramel-malted Alembic Pale Ale suited moderate-bodied tastes. Peanut-shelled rye-soured fig-sugared cherrywood-smoked West Side Brown Ale also stayed light-bodied.

Heartier thirsts will lean towards grapefruit peel-embittered, orange rind-soured, wheat-biscuit-y, grassy-hopped, alcohol-sharp, iodine-nicked Elliott Bay IPA and floral pine-sapped grapefruit-embittered Hoppus Collasum Double IPA, a terrific bold elixir countered firmly by honeyed peach-pear-nectar juicing and creamy cocoa malts. No Ale Winter Seasonal brings cocoa-molasses sweetness to malt-roasted dark-spiced cherry-bruised prune-soured finish.

On the dark side, Band-Aid-wafted salami-beefed beechwood-smoked grain-roasted prune-dried Noir Von Boorian Belgian Black Ale boasted mild eccentricities and cherry-pureed vanilla-chalked chocolate-smoked oats-flaked No Doubt Stout reveled in mocha malt smoothness.

www.elliottbaybrewing.com

SCUTTLEBUTT BREWERY

EVERETT, WASHINGTON

Alongside the Everett marina one-half hour North of Seattle and three miles Northeast of Diamond Knot, Everett’s family-owned SCUTTLEBUTT BREWERY is situated inside a white industrial building with garage door, plate-glass windowed brew tanks, and small front-covered patio. Cafeteria-styled seating surrounds small bar and banners decorate the walls. Bought bottled versions of Scuttlebutt’s Gale Force IPA, Amber Ale, and 10 Degrees Below Ale (listed in Beer Index), December ’09.

www.scuttlebuttbrewing.com

(STONE) KONA COFFEE MACADAMIA COCONUT PORTER

Respectable Stone-Maui collaboration brings oaken hop-charred grain roast and fruited nut temperance to endearing coffee theme, defining silken soft-toned Imperial Strong Porter. Milk chocolate-y vanilla pleasantry secures toasted coconut, macadamia and almond illusions as well as tertiary green raisin and red grape undertones. Molasses cookie sugaring, mild cappuccino whimper and burgundy-rum tease get watered down at bustling macadamia coffee finish.

Kona Coffee Macadamia Coconut Porter Aged in Bourbon Barrels: label sneak  peek | BeerPulse