On Frisco’s tranquil grain silo-marked Main Street corner, tan stucco brown-timbered BACKCOUNTRY BREWERY looks out at splendid mountainous terrain and Lake Dillon atop an ice cream shop, drawing families and vacationing outdoorsmen. Perused August ’07, its second floor dining space and outdoor covered deck were serviced by small central bar while first floor space was unfinished.

Pizza, calzone, and burgers went well with delicate lemony grapefruit-fronted, floral-spiced, wet-grassed, piney-hopped Ptarmigan Pilsner, bark-dried, tea-honeyed, pumpernickel-chipotle-teased Switchback Amber, and hop-roasted, cola-nutty, toffee-tinged Peak One Porter.

Better were orange peel-embittered, coriander-spiced, peppery-hopped, lemon-candied, lavender-tweaked Wheeler Wheat, soft-watered, wood-embittered, grassy-hopped, citrus-quince-dabbed Telemark IPA, and banana-chipped, apple-baked, tangerine-apricot-zipped, cereal oats-nipped Maibock Lager.

As strong as a Turkish coffee, astounding Breakfast Stout brings extreme coffee bean bittering to oats-flaked, milk-creamed, hazelnut-roasted, tobacco-chewed, black chocolate rift.

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