Seattle’s Pillagers Pub offered satiny fresh-watered beechwood-smoked kiln-malted German-styled moderation. Fizzy hop-pepped lemon twist underscores evaporative salami-smoked cedar-charred maple-cindered soot. But ‘baron’ smoky resilience upended by sudsy soapiness as the bottle drains. Too soft and unassuming, but never offensive. Crisp, clean springtime session beer may be under-whelming for true traditionalists, but eminently approachable to others.

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