Imaginative soft-watered pinkish amber 10% alcohol ‘malt beverage’ made with pinot noir juice and Belgian yeast, then aged in oak barrels, keeps revealing sundry complexities. Strangely, advertised coriander and orange peel components are well hidden, working as conduits for chewy honeyed malt-stricken sherry, bourbon, and brandy illusions as well as cane-sugared cherry jubilee, honeydew, cantaloupe, and mango fruiting. Studies prove mixing wine and beer is dangerous, but Dogfish puts ‘em together in one bottle.

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