On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, well-intended and well-balanced ‘wild ale’ reaches uniquely sweetened sour ale pinnacle as heavily acidulated yeast lip-smack and musty compost waft get upstaged by cherry-limed Rickey soda sugaring. Beneath the surface, oaken cherry, yellow grape and green apple tartness picks up syrupy raspberry woodruff rasp that adds nifty Berliner Weiss influence to tingly mouth-puckering lemon-wedged bitterness.

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