Enigmatically complex hybrid brings sour saison yeast funk to wildflower honeyed mead insistence and orange-dried oats, spelt and rye rusticity. But its abstruse blend never completely suffices as oncoming white-wined Chardonnay spell, latent cider tartness and displaced sourdough bottom receive ethyl malt liquor astringency at musky groat-milled citric finish. Nevertheless, seasoned mead drinkers may find this to be the cat’s pajamas.

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