SAMUEL ADAMS INFINIUM

Colossal champagne-styled strong ale, circa 2011, provides well-rounded complexities almost overrun by a few uncertain peculiarities. Brewed in conjunction with Germany’s respected Weihenstephan, heady nectar retains wispy effervescence despite walloping 10.3% alcohol whir. Bubbly champagne flow picks up floral white-peppered hop bite contrasting initial red licorice spell as well as bustling orange-bruised apple, cherry, blueberry, and apricot fruiting (perhaps unwittingly hinting at Belgian tripel styling). Subsidiary pineapple, mango, cantaloupe, and peach tropicalia coats creamy cognac center. Teasing barleywine, brandy, banana liqueur, and rum illusions graze piercing spiced gin stint. But abstruse notions of perfume-oiled pinuad hair tonic and after-shave lotion may turn off less adventurous drinkers.

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