Delightful hybridized German-styled moderation (brewed by Tall Tales) brings wintry dark-roasted mocha malting of a typical altbier to the soft-focus dried fruiting of a subtle summery kolsch. Large black licorice contingent rules the roost until sugared fig, dry plum and unripe prune illusions reach the fore. Small boardwalk-bound brewers’ flagship offering certainly qualifies for the big time.