Harshly acrid Japanese-named ‘Hanami’ forfeits advertised cherry juice souring to extremely parched lemon juice tartness. But unlike, say, a fine dry Lambic, fizzy Seltzer-like hops diminish subsidiary unripe white grape, green apple, cranberry, and pomegranate dapple as well as frail wheat spine. Grassy herbal-floral illusions killed off by muddled oak-dried citric acidity.

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