ROCK ART THE VERMONSTER

Advertised as ‘Ridge Runner’s Big Brother,’ sharp spice-hopped brown-sugared mocha-bound barleywine betters lighter-bodied sibling. Viscously caramel malted and heavily dry-hopped, its black cherry-pureed buildup overwhelms coffee-stained cola nutttiness, fig-raisin latency and resinous pine sapping.

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