SARANAC BELGIAN WHITE ALE

Weak pale-clouded sunshine-hued off-dry Belgian-style derivative picks up early bubblegum scent and tart grapefruit-orange peel souring. But as tangy lemon bitterness fades, unripe banana invades blunt perfumed hop thrust, sweet clove lag and bread-crusted edge, becoming thin, watery, then metallic. 2011 re-tasting: carbolic Seltzer watering precludes candi-sugared lemony spritz, orange-dried coriander-ginger spicing and herbal tinge.

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