MILFORD, CONNECTICUT

DOCKSIDE BREWERY & WATERFRONT BIERGARTEN is an expansive white colonial barnhouse gastropub spreading far and wide along the Housatonic riverbanks of Milford, Connecticut. Featuring a pristine 40-tap main barroom, multi-level plastic-seated deck, community-tabled picnic area, several uniquely furnished riverfront pods, sandy benches and a game area, this mammoth brewery also serves as a fabulous local sportsbar with TV’s at every angle.

Opened May 2020 during Covid fever, Dockside’s neon signage leads Route 95 traffic, marina-bound fishermen and local sailors to its grand 4,200 square-foot location. A major part of the village of Devon’s riverfront revitalization, Dockside’s proved to be what co-owner Bob Chicoine calls “a gateway to Milford.”

I chowed on New England clam chowder and my wife had Dockside fig and pig pizza while consuming eight delightfully rounded home brews. Several guest draughts were also available.

Crisply dry aluminum cleared Mexican pale lager, El Capitan, let dry maize-husked fungi, Tettnang hop herbage and celery watering sidle corn flaked biscuit buttering as soapy lemon cologne surfaced.

Peculiar helles lager, Driftwood Oak, saddled its delicate oaken bark dryness with floral-perfumed citrus fruiting and tarragon-sage herbage atop grainy pilsner malting.

Dry Imperial IPA, Destructo, brought mild lemon-peeled white grapefruit bittering to sugary oats malting as juniper-licked peach, guava and cherry illusions wavered.

Mellow lemony orange-peeled grapefruit bittering perked up piney dry-hopped West Coast IPA, Califragilistic, a crystal malt sugared medium body.

Salted lemony grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering grew incrementally alongside lactic milk sugaring of Feelin’ Juicy NEIPA, placing tertiary coconut-mango-papaya tropicalia alongside oats-flaked pilsner malting.

Another nifty NEIPA, Squooshy, retained a briny soft-tongued fruitiness and yogurt-soured milk sugaring as scurried grapefruit, blueberry, passionfruit and tangerine tanginess plus zesty lemon bittering rose above its oated flaked wheat base.

Sour-candied Let ‘Em Eat Cake #3 splendidly knocked off a strawberry banana pastry with its dry lemon-puckered saltiness contrasting sweet banana and tart strawberry.

Lovely confectionery nightcap, Something Sinister Pastry Stout unleashed caramel-salted coconut cheesecake creaminess upon honeyed Graham Cracker sweetness to its milk chocolatey hazelnut coffee finish.