All posts by John Fortunato

THE TAP RESTAURANT & BREWERY

HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS

25 miles north of Boston, Haverhill’s THE TAP RESTAURANT & BREWERY is housed in a beautiful red brick downtown building. A prominent local pub with old styled brick interior design and quaint wood-decked dining area, The Tap occupies the same space as an 1897 tavern.

I settled in with pal, Al, for two-hour April ’05 stopover. Brew tanks reside in back and basement with enormous rear deck offering respite. Menu included New England seafood (mussels, crab cakes, calamari), wraps, sandwiches, and burgers.

Brewer Dann Paquette provided lemon-fizzed Haverdale Light Lager (with apricot-skinned grapefruit dryness), busy coffee-milked nut-roasted tea-leafed Merrimack Mild Ale and recommended hop-spiced orange-bruised cherry-ripened maize-backed Belgian-styled Blonde Bombshell to soothe softer tastes.

Saaz hop-embittered citric-spiced lemon rind-dusted Hannah’s Weizen, tannic grape-skinned cherry-soured Scottish-styled Merry Mac Ale and mild soft-watered wood-smoked coffee-stained Bootblack’s Extra Stout were approachably medium-bodied.

www.tapbrewpub.com

JOHN HARVARD’S – FRAMINGHAM

BOSTON VICINITY, MASSACHUSETTS

Within short proximity of Boston, at Shoppers World Mall in Framingham, lies arguably the best of many JOHN HARVARD’S brewpubs, visited April ‘05. A new red brick building in a commercial business area offering spacious front patio, wood-carved seating area, copper-kettle and stainless steel brew tanks encased behind bar (with dual tv’s), its stained-glass godly-posed Jerry Garcia, JFK, and Teddy Roosevelt murals truly define independence.

Brewmeister Brian Sanford’s nicely diversified fare included lemony wheat-dried prickly-hopped hay-straw-parched Helles; apricot-dried fig-nipped barley-toasted astringency Pale Ale; ethanol sour-fruited Marzen; and delicately-hopped fig-sugared green apple-backed Celtic Strong – on the lighter end.

Wintry allspice-peppered orange-bruised resonation Belgian Style Ale; floral-perfumed berry-pureed cherry kirsch-y Kirley Q’s IPA; cappuccino-fronted brown chocolate-lingered burnt toasted Frostbite Black Lager; soft flowing nutty espresso Irish Stout; and incredibly boozy chocolate-cherry liqueur-like Russian Imperial Stout were sound medium-to-full-bodied samplings.

www.johnharvards.com

OWEN O’LEARY’S

OWEN O'LEARY'S, Southborough - Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Phone Number -  Tripadvisor

NATICK, MASSACHUSETTS

Just about fifteen miles outside Boston, Natick’s hotel-bound OWEN O’LEARY’S (1996-2008) eventually moved to Southborough and expanded to include a second facility (with brew tanks) in nearby Westborough during 2018. The initial central Natick barroom featured wood stools, multiple televisions, and wood-carved sampler trays during April ’05 sojourn.

The blue-green sided Southborough locale (with striped red-white poles) duplicated the Irish pub atmosphere of Natick with wood-laden furnishings crowding the central bar (with low ceiling, Edison-bulbed bronze tin tiling and multiple TV’s). Sports memorabilia lines its small side dining room.

Owen O’Leary’s Southborough brewpub occupies former popular hangout, Piccadilly Pub.

For lighter thirsts, wheat-soured apple-candied Light Lager, yellow-fruited soft-hopped Eagle Eye Golden Ale and fizzy-yet-coarse stone-fruited green apple-soured Marzen will suffice.

Meanwhile, caramelized-to-souring pumpernickel-licked vegetal finishing Winter Strong Ale, dry earthy-hopped amber-grained Irish Sunsetter Red Ale, red-orange-fruited piney-hopped IPA and nut-roasted coffee-espresso-lingered Irish Stout were more profound.

A decade hence, the beer menu’s been boosted by newer, better recipes. So I needed to return.

At dinnertime, June ’21, I imbibed five previously untried soft-toned blue collar easygoers.

Lemon-rotted orange peel souring enveloped tart banana-clove, dried plantain and musty floral herbage for light-bodied Belgian White.

Mild fruited spritzer, Blueberry Ale, maintained a floral blueberry Seltzer soapiness above pithy cracked wheat.

Musky English-styled Session IPA sprung dry wood-toned Chinook hop herbage and perfumed citrus bittering onto raw-grained pale malts.

A delicate mango spritz faded for Mango IPA, picking up grassy hop astringency to contrast relegated floral spicing.

Demure oats-charred cocoa dryness engaged dark-roasted chocolate malts for Oatmeal Stout, leaving plum-dried resin. 

www.owenolearys.com

MERCURY BREWING COMPANY

BOSTON VICINITY, MASSACHUSETTS

In the rolling hills north and west of Boston are several commendable brewpubs. But I’d also recommend nearby Allston’s busy blue-collar tequila-beer joint, Sunset Grill & Tap, a Brighton Avenue corner dining spot with vintage saloon-styled exterior mural, magnanomous 400 bottled beer selection, discriminating 100 tap beer option, and 21 billiard tables. Beer coasters, taps, and bottles lined brick walls and full yards of ale were available.

About 20 miles north of Beantown lies sleepy port town, Ipswich, known not only for its clams and fishing, but also excellent brewery. Head brewer James Dorau has annually supplied my family with fantastic Ipswich brews at MERCURY BREWING COMPANY (which also brews lighter-bodied Stone Cat’s and does contract brewing for Fisherman’s Brew).

During one 2008 trip, the kind-hearted Dorau handed me a case of unlabeled beers that were just hanging ’round. We had previously got together at Brooklyn’s Barcade, Thanksgiving weekend ’07, to quaff a few previously untried brews during his visit to New York City.

Found incomparable unpasteurized half-gallon Ipswich brews at local Marcorella’s Liquors on Route 1A. During ‘00/’01 Cape Cod summer trips, enjoyed Ipswich IPA, Porter, and Stout growlers while swimming pristine beaches near Provincetown or watching drive-in theatre films (ironically, the Cape Cod-based Perfect Storm on first trip).

www.mercurybrewing.com

BOSTON BEER WORKS (FENWAY)

Image result for boston beer works fenway

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

In December ’07, got to frequent older version of BOSTON BEER WORKS, located across Fenway Park. Opening to an auxiliary service bar with glass-encased brew tanks, this spacious sportsbar widens to a gigantic back dining-bar area (including multiple TV’s) boasting superb left wall beer bottle collection and many rear silver kettles. Winter Celebration menu included sea bass, lamb, and duck while yearlong fare comprised turkey, salmon, ribs, chicken, and meatloaf. Check newer Fleet Center-based Beer Works for beers sampled there.

Banana-melted vanilla-clove-backed peppery-hopped Victory White reminded me of Hoegaarden’s Belgian ale.

Dry-malted yellow-fruited lemon rind-embittered Fenway Pale Ale and lemony-hopped barley-oats-backboned Boston Garden Gold sufficed.

Hazelnut coffee-roasted mocha-finishing Beantown Nut Brown picked up mild milk chocolate sweetness.

Better still were espresso-chocolate-like cola-walnut-charred black cherry-tinged Buckeye Oatmeal Stout and luscious barleywine-styled Hercules Strong Ale, with its overripe cherry-sweetened, banana-bruised, kiwi-mango-backed fruitiness contrasting dark-roast hop char.

Next day, after walking Boston Commons with family, tried goodly date-fig-spiced holiday warmer White Christmas Ale and peculiar Belgian-styled Winterfest Gruit, an un-hopped prune-date-dried clove-coriander-allspice-tingled sugar-plummed herbal delight.

Better was cask-conditioned Baby Hercules Pale Ale, a soft cream-whipped ‘small beer’ with whiskey-dabbed rye frontage, honeyed tea linger and fig-date slip.

At 11 AM sharp on a cold mid-December ’11 day I returned to Boston’s Fenway Park-sidled Beer Works with wife by my side for a surprisingly high nine untried brews. As we settled into a generously portioned hummus platter (with feta cheese, roasted peppers, artichoke, eggplant and olive), I downed the lightest fare in 6-ounce samplers.

Despite its misleadingly savage moniker, 9 Alarm Amber’s a simple mainstream lager with mellow raw-honeyed orange-yellow fruiting and crystal malted caramelization over a bitterer hop profile than the usual soft-toned amber fare.

Fig-dried rye enveloped the equally soft Bay State ESB. Not far removed from this Extra Special Bitter, Tell Tale Dunkel Lager merged plantain-grazed dried fruiting and washed-out earthen dewiness with sedate biscuit bottom.

Sticking with the German-styled branding of Tell Tale, thinly stable Accelerator Double Bock secured a dried fruited bed for its coffee-milked mocha sweetness, placing brown-sugared molasses plus desiccated black cherry, fig and prune illusions atop earthen mineral grains.

Mocha-related beers such as cocoa-dried Black Rider (a black-peppered, chicory-dabbed, dried fruited, peat-bound schwarzbier) and coffee-roasted Curley’s Irish Stout – Cask Conditioned (with its dry hop-oiled earthiness and milked espresso niche) were fine.

Getting into the wintry seasonals, I preferred the whiskey-dried Winter Warmer, a Scottish wee heavy with sweet vanilla-chocolate malting and cherry-fig ripeness, over Yuletide-spiced White Christmas, where toasted rye breading gets a fig-dried ginger-rooted nutmeg-cinnamon-coriander-allspice tingle.

For dessert, the awesome Godzilla Barleywine ruled! A sweetish barleyine with sherry, brandy and Scotch tones, its raisin-pureed red cherry, bruised banana, candied apple and sugared fig fruiting danced on the tongue while chewy caramel malts tantalized the bourbon finish.

On a beautifully sunny Sunday eve in May ’19, revisited Fenway brew spot to quaff four previously untried elixirs.

Blasé lo-cal fruit ale, Blue 92, let its lacquered blueberry tartness dry up for mild phenol-hopped citric bittering.

Dazzlingly hybridized Rice Saison brought subdued rice wine sweetness to funky herbal yeast and floral-fruited herbage, leaving cologne-perfumed lemongrass, bay leaf, sage and chamomile upon tart lemon-candied banana sweetness.

Seared dark-roast black malts gave Excellent Porter a rich walnut-charred black chocolate bittering reinforced by chalky cocoa and burnt coffee tones.

Creamily soft-toned dessert treat, Nitro Cookie Stout, loaded dark-roast chocolate and cacao nibs onto cookie dough richness, nearly duping an Oreo in all its mocha splendor.

www.beerworks.net

BLOOMINGTON BREWING

BLOOMINGTON, INDIANA

Heading South 25 miles from Indianapolis, June ‘04, party-bound college town, Bloomington, hosts fair BLOOMINGTON BREWING, located at Lennie’s Restaurant.

Quaffed wheat-blanched hop-squelched B’Town Light Pils; acrid melon-seeded honeydew-cantaloupe-induced light body Watermelon Ale; sour summery serendipity Freestone Blonde; ‘easygoing German’ styled banana-clove-absorbed apricot-dotted lemon-wedged Vision Weiss; English-styled orange-grapefruit-influenced hop-frisked Quarrymen Pale Ale; and sultry wood-grained coffee-laden Big Stone Porter.

Rumors are better beer tanks/equipment have been installed so an upgrade in beer quality should be expected.

www.bbc.bloomington.com

BOSTON BEER WORKS – FLEET CENTER

Image result for boston beer works canal st

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS

Since 2005, I’ve thrice revisited the Bay State’s greatest city. Founded by Puritans way back in 1630 and known for throwing a wild tea party, this early colonial settlement became a major seaport with narrow streets, brick sidewalks, stately Old World charm, and nowadays, two worthy small-chain brewpubs.

A li’l history: Post-Christmas ’98, enjoyed Samuel Adams samplers at Boston Commons during one snowy evening, then found a few Harpoon brews previously unobtainable in Jersey. Exactly four years later, visited Fanieul Hall’s Cheers pub replica for Guinness-soaked stew, then took one-mile walk to famed Bull & Finch before bringing family to Cambridge’s JOHN HARVARD BREWHOUSE (revisited April ’05, see Cambridge section) to quaff eight notable brewpub samples prior to taking pictures at nearby National Lampoon headquarters. I purchased Wachusetts and Concord brews along the way.

It took me ’til October ’07 to discover capacious BOSTON BEER WORKS near Fleet Center on Canal Street. Featuring neuvo-Industrial metal-welded wood chairs and tables with right side bar, its exposed ceiling ducts, rear brew tanks and upstairs loft (with billiards tables) gave this an adequate sportsbar feel.

Beer fare included light yellow-orange-fruited mineral-grained Golden Ale; Cascade-hopped quince-berry-peach-aided Back Bay IPA; medicinal banana-coriander-fronted Double Vision Belgian Double; loosely Trappist-styled orange-bruised lemon-aided Funky Monk-y and its mellow-fruited easy-grained Tripel Gold cousin.

Going on, quaffed bittersweet barley-rich berry-bottomed Bunkerhill Blueberry Ale; palest red-fruited Victory Red; and coffee-stained Curley’s Irish Stout.

Crimson Clover Irish Red had mild honeyed tea frontage and its cask-conditioned version added deeper alcohol warmth and soft-honeyed heather mystique.

www.beerworks.net

ILLINOIS BREWING COMPANY

Illinois Brewing Company - Home | Facebook
BLOOMINGTON, ILLINOIS

Small central city is home of Illinois State University and ILLINOIS BREWING COMPANY (located across from the coliseum until closing down in 2019). Ventured August ’06, old wood floors, high ceilings, and two billiard tables mark IBC’s rustic interior. Brew tanks are near front windowed rail of this crude sports bar (with televisions strewn about).

Tangy lemony grapefruit-pepped floral- hopped mildly-embittered Colonel Harrington’s IPA had a nice vibe similar to bitterly buttery apple-pear-grapefruit-tinged Newmarket Pale Ale.

Toasted oats and tangerine-nectar gave way to ice tea nicety for passable Illinois Amber Ale

Dry tea-like façade increased fig-soured honey-smitten tendency of Big Beaver Brown Ale.

Perhaps reminiscent of Huber Bock, Stumblin’ Stout gathered mild coffee-mocha souring and coarse hop-roasted prickle.

 

KUTZTOWN TAVERN

KUTZTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA

North of Philadelphia lies steel town, Bethlehem, and twenty miles southwest, tiny metropolis, Kutztown, visited December ’05. Located in East Penn Valley between the Blue and South Mountains, Kutztown’s manufacturing community sidles agrarian farmland.

Home of Golden Avalanche Brewing Company in a suburban warehouse district, Main Street’s KUTZTOWN TAVERN proudly serves its small community with distinct brews and light American cuisine (seafood, soup-salad, sandwiches, pasta, pretzel pizzas). Pale-wheat-pilsner malt sacks near front door, silver and copper kettles surrounding rightward bar, tucked-in pine booths and upstairs banquet hall consume cozy lodge-like clear-oak lounge. Stonewalled cement-floored limestone-sided basement hangout, Shorty’s Bar, features capacious 50-foot bar, three billiards tables, and local bands.

Gentler tastes will appreciate mild-grained grapefruit-trimmed popcorn-like Blonde Lager, orange-fruited oats-honeyed bohemian golden Young Allen’s Lager, dry banana-greened clove-dashed lemon-wedged seltzer-fizzed Donner Weiss and mellow yellow-fruited dry-hopped wheat-backed subtlety Avalanche Light Lager.

Medium thirsts are directed to off-dry tea-like rye-breaded 80 Schilling Milling.

Bolder quaffs will admire floral-hopped fruit-spiced malt-smoked Olde Brick Alt (Brown Ale), Band-Aid-tongued salami-seared wood-burnt Tavern Smoked Beer and rich vanilla-chocolate-coffee-bolstered Onyx Cream Stout

During September 2012, old pal Karl Knief visited Kutztown Tavern and came back with reliable Blueberry Lager. Its bittersweet blueberry tartness lingered over a soap-stoned white wheat base as lemony hop-fizzed crisping speckled the perfume-lacquered blueberry essence.

www.kutztowntavern.com

BETHLEHEM BREW WORKS

BETHLEHEM, PENNSYLVANIA

North of Philadelphia near the Delaware River lies historic steel town, Bethlehem, a popular arts community with a large casino and spacious brewpub. Visited December ’05, friendly Main Street Commons Mall corner pub, BETHLEHEM BREW WORKS, is marked by windowed street corner copper kettles.

Upon entering, bar and peculiar metal-enforced seating booths are situated to right side while quieter dining area is leftward behind glass-encased brew tanks. Unique ‘Beer Infusions’ (liqueur mixers), excellent single malt Scotch selection, fine wines, martinis, and Christmastime ‘hot buttered rum’ contend with choice Belgian beer assortment (at downstairs bar) and several estimable Lewis Thomas-handcrafted brews.

Soft-toned grapefruit-lemony Hallertau-hopped Valley Golden Ale, raw-honeyed rye-dried tea-leafed dry-bodied Fegley’s ESB and tame dried-fruited sugar-malted toffee-tinged Doppelbock soothe neophytes.

Viscous brandy-wined orange-bruised apple-candied fig-slicked Big Bad Barleywine, mild espresso-fronted coffee-roasted black chocolate-dried walnut-quipped Steelworkers Oatmeal Stout and especially, perfect 9.5% alcohol candi-sugared brandy-soaked Belgian-styled Rude Elf’s Reserve (with its cinnamon swirl and nutmeg-coriander twist) suit indelible connoisseurs.

www.thebrewworks.com

RYLEIGH’S BREWPUB

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND

In the narrow Federal Hill section blocks away from Inner Harbor and across the Street Market area lies tiny neighborhood bar, RYLEIGH’S BREWPUB & RAW BAR (which ceased brewpub operations during ’07). Its black-fronted exterior boasted ‘steak and chop restaurant with fine ales,’ February ’05. 

Upon entering, rustic red brick archways lead to wooden booth-laden bar on right with additional seating in the back. To the left, glass enclosed brew tanks front the main eating section.

On tap, dryly grassy sugar-candied Marble Golden Ale, spicy red-fruited Dizzy Blonde Ale and softly buttered toasted-grained floral-daubed Ryleigh’s Best Amber Ale were simple lightweights.

But bitter-hopped citrus-spiced India Revenge Pale Ale left a better imprint.

Best bet: Black Forest cake-like Wild Willie’s Oatmeal Stout, a creamily maple oats-sugared dessert with slight liqueur splash.

Recommended for tap beer brewhounds: Thirsty Dog Pub – two doors down.

CAPITOL CITY BREWING

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND

During February ’05, I made a clean sweep of Baltimore’s brewpubs. Though CAPITOL CITY BREWING opened at Baltimore’s Inner Harbor around ‘98, the inaugural brewery in Washington D.C. has been operating since ’92. Two Virginia operations now exist also, but this site closed in ‘07.

Located on the second floor of Light Street Pavilion, the Baltimore brewpubs’ glass entrance opened to ‘50s styled ambiance where bright red booths lead to a centralized bar area with copper kettles fronting the cooking area.

Above, bright red overhead beams and a catwalk matched the scheme. Outside dining overlooked Inner Harbor and a billiard table adorned the back area.

While tasting plump Babe Ruth Burger, I quaffed dry wheat-husked fizzy-hopped lemongrass-y Capitol Kolsch, Scotch-licked caramel-buttered Amber Waves Ale, red-fruited floral-hopped mocha-hinted Extra Special Bitter, friskily fruit-hopped butterscotch-tinged whiskey-dabbed Duncan’s Scottish Ale and chocolate-y coffee-roasted cola-hazelnut-hinted Prohibition Porter.

Some of these brews are still available at Washington DC’s Capitol City Brewpub. Brewery Defunct: 2010.