Thin German holiday lager lacks enthusiastic Yuletide punch and expectant seasonal spicing of wintry bock. Sedate dark-roasted coffee coats even subtler chocolate-cocoa-molasses triage. Unripe fig-date souring, lightest rye toasting and latent tobacco nip provide mildly soft-toned Extra Special Bitter profile.

Shelton Brothers New York: Oktoberfest at Spuyten Duyvil

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