
TROY, NEW YORK
Friendly capacious joint,
BROWN’S BREWING, located nine miles east of Albany in downtown Troy (with a second location in Walloomsack), proved to be a friendly destination on several journeys going to and leaving nearby Berkshire Mountains in western Massachusetts.
Located along the Hudson River across from the State Capitol, Brown's broad mix of Rensellear Polytechnical Institute students, local businessmen, and families make up the usual crowd. Its spacious factory-like brick-walled interior and large riverside deck offered cottage villager’s splendor. Classic American food dominated the menu and the French onion soup is always fantastic. Wood columns-floors-tables, Revolutionary War paintings, "The Tap Room, Revolution Hall" bar, and glass-encased copper brew tanks make up the first floor.
Upstairs, the lounge area, pool table, several games, and private Trojan Room provided fun atmosphere on first family trip, December '04.
Well-rounded brew selection included wheat-dried, corn-husked, citric-hopped
Brown’s Light; Weihenstephan Weizen-aided, banana-sugared, yeast-doughy, lemony hard candied, coriander-spiced
Hefe-Weizen; soft mocha-dried barley-smoked
ESB; whiskey-malted cherry-soaked
Pale Ale; chocolate-parched oats-toasted
Brown Ale.
Mocha-dried coffee-soured walnut-seared maple-sapped oats-charred soother
Oatmeal Stout and sweet chocolate-fronted maraschino cherry-dabbed tar-embittered
Imperial Stout were fine dark-bodied reps. Bought last two in bottled version along with
Brown’s Cherry Raspberry Ale, which boasted sour-to-sweet cherry tartness, bitter juniper-currant surge, soured cranberry-raspberry slurp, and leathery grass peppering nearly washed out at phenol finish.
January ’08, on the way home from Vermont brewpub tour, quaffed
Dunkelweizen, a musty muscatel with mild sugared fig, stewed prune, unripe banana, black cherry, port, and burgundy notes.
Bought growler of chalky hop-charred chocolate-malted
Brown’s Porter, a creamy vanilla-influenced cocoa-buttered peanut-shelled hazelnut-pecan-backed dry body with weak coffee remnant.
Arriving at my destination before noon, October '10, hung out with 17-year Brown brewer, Peter Martin, whom I’d met a few years back with the family. We shared a few thoughts after I quaffed samplers. On this visit, I'd garner four previously undiscovered brews.
Done up in a dry English style (despite American IPA tag), hop-charred alcohol-burnt
India Pale Ale dismissed stylistic citric pining for twiggy earthen dewing, musty vegetal fungi and mild lemon bruise.
Blue-collar session beer enthusiasts would appreciate perfumed grassy-hopped wheat-chaffed citric-embittered leather-bound
Tomhannock Pilsner.
"My only criticism of Tomhannock is it lacks the smoothness of traditional Czech pilsners," Martin said.
As for soft-toned salami-smoked beechwood-chipped
Rauchbier, he offered, "It’s sweeter somewhere along the Marzen style. I’ve made American smoked beers a few times. The only ones I’d known beforehand were from Germany’s Bamberger region."
But today’s highlight was smooth bourbon-like
Barrel Aged Whiskey Porter, a very approachable mocha-dried ‘big beer’ house special bringing creamy cocoa-powdered cherry-pureed raspberry wisps to hop-charred wood-smoked oaken vanilla, black grape, and vinous burgundy illusions.
Martin concluded, "I’m more of a traditionalist. I’ll do over-the-top seasonals. And big beers are fun. However, it’s easier to sell a gallon of pale ale over super-octane brews."
www.brownsbrewing.com