
Opened February 2020 in an inconspicuous overhead-doored gray brick mechanic’s garage, SUBVERSIVE MALTING & BREWING is a nifty New York farmhouse nanobrewery in the town of Catskill. A rickety black foil sign leads patrons to the grain silo-sided pub house.
Crafting “simple and expressive” beers appealing to a wide range of people’s palates, Subversive takes its farm-to-table motto seriously.
Rustic cafe benches and a cozy couched section front the parlor-styled plank wood bar (cornered by two TV’s). Brew tanks are staged at the rear alongside a small canning area. As a malt house, Subversive utilizes floor-germinated roasted malts made from locally sourced grains.
Wine, hard cider and cocktails were available as well as burgers, sandwiches and salads.
It’s noontime in 105-degree weather as I sink five Subversive suds at one of the stone-grounded black picnic table under the covered deck on my late July ’25 trip. Unfortunately, they were out of flagship, Tiny Glasses Kolsch.
“Pillowy Euro pils,” Puff Puff, a light-bodied softie, left fizzy lemon upon its sweet-spiced floral hops and mild herbal tinge above bread-crusted cereal graining.
Year-round hazy India Pale Ale, NY Nectar, stayed soft on the tongue as well, letting yellow grapefruit and orange rind bittering delicately graze subtle spicing, light pining and grassy hop astringency.
Offbeat dry-hopped West Coast IPA, Verdant Voyage, let dank pine and nutty rye redirect pineapple-guava tartness plus wispy papaya-pineapple tanginess above mild pilsner malting.
Classic farmhouse ale, Subversive Saison, stayed easygoing as orange-bruised lemon meringue and dried plantain retained candi-sugared coating.
Smoothly creamed nitro stout, Dark Harvest, placed roasted coffee next to Cocoa Puffs chocolate malting, creamy eclair fluff and dewy earthiness.