BACCHUS INDIGENOUS

On tap at Ambulance, delicate wild ale spontaneously soured with Seyval Blanc white grapes in red wine barrels retains soft-toned nature despite terse mouth-puckering acidity. Sour grape esters settle beside lemon-juiced cherry vinaigrette and Granny Smith apple tartness. Briny sea salting increases sharp sourness at wispy white-wined finish.

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