Originally crafted by an Italian immigrant, soft Scotch-wafted pils is as delicately simplistic as it is light-bodied and pale-toned. Instead of being a fine “alternative to table wines” (as the label proudly proclaims), its saltwatered lemon fizz, suspect corny grain mesh and baked breadstick base put it closer to a Noble-hopped Mexican brew sans the spicy tingle.

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