PIZZA PORT

SOLANA BEACH, CALIFORNIA

One mile from Delmar Raceway & Fairgrounds, the beautiful beach town of Solana Beach housed busy PIZZA PORT. A dive-y local hangout with “create your own” pizzas, hot wings, and Caesar salads, its cafeteria-style seating, fantastic jukebox, multiple televisions, arcade space, and aluminum brew tanks offered a magnificent assortment.

In fact, Pizza Port (with other locations in Carlsbad, Ocean Beach and San Clemente) was so crowded upon first April ’07 nighttime visitation, I sent wife and kids to eat tasty burgers at nearby pool joint, Tidewater Tavern, while I had shot glass samples of brewer Greg Peters’ fine offerings. Though Belgian-styled award winners such as Dubbel Overhead Abbey Ale, Auggie’s Grand Cru, and Mother Of All Beers Belgian Strong were unavailable, nine of the ten tapped brews I tried were on-the-money.

Upon lunchtime revisit, re-sampled sweet honeyed tea-spiced, apple-fig-soured, black coffee-lulled Shark Attack Imperial Red, raisin-ripe molasses-sapped floral-citric earthen-hopped Shark Bite Red (and the comparable California Honey), mossy fig-date-teased red-orange-fruited Rock Reed Rye Ale, and fresh-watered floral-hopped cereal-grained caramel-chocolate-malted Dawn Patrol Dark English Brown.

Stylistically similar, but profoundly distinct, were piney-hopped, orange rind-embittered, peach-apple-brightened Yigas Revenge IPA, bitterly aggressive, grapefruit-orange rind-centered, honey-snipped, gin-soaked Swami’s IPA, and the sweeter cherry-apricot-apple-cored, grapefruit rind-embittered, resinous pine-tarred, malt-sinewy The Hop 15.

Mild yet creamy Seaside Stout re-created Guinness with its lactic chocolate-y nut froth, sharp hop char, and burnt sierra-cedar backdrop, adding poignant black cherry sourness for great measure.

Horrific Das Boot Helles Lager had nasty lemon-bruised diacetyl plasticity only cheapskate malt liquor rowdies and hellent bikers could stand.

Over the railroad tracks a few blocks away, Minute Shop Liquors had newly-discovered Deschutes Inversion, Firehouse American Pale, Port Old Viscosity, and New Belgium 2 Below (reviewed in Beer Index).

www.pizzaport.com

SMOKY MOUNTAIN BREWERY

Smoky Mountain Brewery - Blount Tourism
SMOKY MOUNTAINS, TENNESSEE

Eastern Tennessee’s Appalachian Mountain range is home to Dollywood and Country & Western-influenced arts & craft resort town, Gatlinburg, visited August ‘08.

Just up the main road in Pigeon Forge at Old Town-styled mall, Waldens Landing, lies freestanding two-storied ivory-bricked sportsbar, SMOKY MOUNTAIN BREWERY.

Peculiarly, neighboring eatery CALHOUN’S RIBHOUSE (with a second location at Knoxville’s riverfront a half-hour west) also sold middling craft brews from this post.

A green neon light leads customers into Smoky Mountain’s spacious high-ceilinged fortress, where huge beer mugs surround the central bar. Multiple TV’s adorn all sides as booths and tables crowd the right side. A rear stage area featured karaoke for proper party atmosphere.

Pizzas, burgers, and calzones went well with ineffectual light fare such as tart lemon-candied, yellow apple-sweet, light-grained Windy Gap Wheat, phenolic, soft-hopped, lemon-tinged Velas Helles Lager, and musty, cooked veggie-fronted, corn oil-drenched, green apple-soured, lemon-molded Mountain Light Lager.

Peat-malted spice-hopped red-orange-fruited Cherokee Red Ale and robust black chocolate-roasted hop-charred licorice-laced Tuckaleechee Porter fared better.

Bottled selections of these and other Smoky Mountain beers are listed in Beer Index.

www.smoky-mtn-brewery.com

SELIN’S GROVE BREWING

SELINSGROVE BREWERYSELINSGROVE, PENNSYLVANIA

Initially visited countrified Susquehanna River-bordered town situated in the heart of Penn, November ’06. Located inside a stone Victorian-styled dwelling, SELIN’S GROVE BREWING’s right side cove-like entrance may be inconspicuous, but it’s literally a back door portal to a cozy l’il neighborhood oak bar with limited seating and outstanding brews. Back dining area with hearth provides suitable country comfort and light menu offered sandwiches-wraps-salads.

Caroused sweet corn-sugared wheat-honeyed Captain Selin’s Cream Ale, biscuit-y cereal-grained malt-smoked bark-dried twig-leafed Scottish Style Ale, and unassuming diacetyl-stricken lemon-tart banana-ripened Wilder’s Hefe Weizen with lunch.

Afterwards, downed superior piney red-fruited Hop Nouveau Pale Ale, brash grapefruit-peeled lemon-embittered peach-tangy mineral-grained earthen-backed India Pale Ale, mellow maple-sapped clover-honeyed cocoa-dried pecan-figged Organic Baltic Porter, and lilting dry-hopped coffee-beaned espresso-frothed fruit-soured Shade Mountain Oatmeal Stout.

 Best bet: banana Kahlua-creamed whiskey-malted orange-bruised alcohol-spiked Saint Fillin’s Barleywine.

On the way east from December ’08 West Virginia stint, revisited Selin’s Grove Brewing to try four more admirable selections at family brunch. Organic Pils had sweet-corned sugar-malted lemon-spiced frontage inducing dry bark-like hind. Molasses-sapped cola-hazelnut-sweetened black coffee-embittered White Horse Porter sealed in a sharp hop-charred blackberry-cherry fruiting. Stealth Tripel retained viscous buttery quirk, candi-sugared subtlety, peppery coriander spicing, and cotton-candied banana sweetness above tertiary rum raisin, pineapple, mango, and brandy illusions.

Best bet: Winter Solstice Dubbel, a warm honeyed cognac intimation lodging brown-sugared banana-bruised overtones, dawdling cinnamon-toasted apple mellifluence, and vanilla-nutmeg-spiced fig-prune-raisin undercurrents.

www.selinsgrovebrewing.com

OAK CREEK BREWERY & GRILL

SEDONA, ARIZONA

Discovered picturesque red-rocked canyon refuge (backdrop for many Western movies) on way back from surreal three-night Grand Canyon retreat, January ‘05. At scenic Sedona’s Tlaquepaque Village, hit upscale OAK CREEK BREWERY & GRILL, located at second floor of adobe clay mini-mall.

Prominent copper kettle brew tanks built into bar area are viewable from windows backing patrons in comfy couch-lined dining booths. Outdoor seating available. Fine cuisine included rotisserie chicken, barbecue ribs, and fire-kissed pizza. Splendid red-peppered pesto-onion-lined Smoking Gun Pizza is recommended.

Slight noble-hopped American pilsner Micro Light and diacetyl dry-grained citrus-laced Forty-Niner Gold Lager suit amateurs, but perky banana-splurged lemon-cloved Horseshoe Hefeweizen, praline-sugared almond-daubed chocolate-spiced Village Nut Brown Ale, dark chocolate-y walnut-buttered Pullman Porter, and sensational floral-spiced red-fruited lemon-soured Doc’s Pale Ale will please heartier thirsts.

Bottled versions of Oak Creek Amber, Nut Brown, and Pale Ale listed in Beer Index.

www.oakcreekbrew.com

POCONO BREWING COMPANY -DEFUNCT

POCONO BREWINGSCRANTON / TANNERSVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA

Five miles from Barley Creek in northeast Pennsylvania village of Swiftwater, visited POCONO BREWING COMPANY (opened 1998 and affectionately known as PBC, but now closed), December ‘07. Though its ‘brewing’ allegation is a misleading misnomer (since windowed copper kettle remains dormant and original recipe brews get crafted by nearby microbrewer Lion Brewing), ski chalet sportsbar boasts 100 tapped-bottled beers and affordable pub grub.

A large fireplace warms central bar while cozy right side family dining area (with TV/ sports jerseys), game room, VIP balcony, sushi bar, and Poconuts comedy club provide vacationers with cornucopia of choices. Sampled simple barley-roasted grapefruit-quince-backed hop-tingled Ball & Chain Lager, lemon-limey grapefruit-embittered floral-tinged caramel-backed Old Bastard Ale, and coffee bean-soured chocolate-malted licorice-laced Black Ghost Porter.

BARLEY CREEK BREWING COMPANY

TANNERSVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA

South of Scranton in the Pocono Mountains lies BARLEY CREEK BREWING COMPANY, a ranch-styled post with exterior canopied tiki deck, fake palm trees, flaming torches, spacious spires, and nearby pavilion visited April ’06 while staying at Tannersville’s Great Wolf Lodge (an indoor waterpark).

Inside, wood booths and upholstered seats bedeck central bar area with TV’s at every conceivable angle. Alongside appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, ribs, crab, and flounder, large glass-encased brew tanks provided gently-hopped fare (bottled versions are listed in Beer Index).

Non-bottled selections served in plastic cups included dry phenol-hopped, wheat-strawed Creek Light and subtle coffee-frothed, toffee-notched, black tea-licked Pocono Bitter. Biscuit-y chocolate-malted, chestnut-hazelnut-eased, woody Chinook-hopped Summit Strong Ale fared OK. On tap, caramel-pale malts soothed Scotch-molasses depth of licorice-doused Swarzbier, Angler Black Lager.

During quick July ’07 revisit, quaffed aluminum-like, lemon-limed, sweet-corned, maize-dried, wheat-strawed Cliffhanger Light Ale and two specialty brews weakened by vinegary cider linger. Iron Arm Belgian Ale brought musty fungi yeast solvency to tart white grape esters, dried orange pucker, lemon-bruised grapefruit bittering, and banana-bruised clove latency. Old 99 Barleywine had oxidized dry burgundy-like 10% alcohol swagger, earthen red grape splurge, green apple souring, and slight charcoal tinge.

On December ’07 jaunt with extended Fortunato family, quaffed acridly fig-dried spice-tingled fungi-etched Harvest Moon Oktoberfest Lager and dry hop-roasted nut-toasted coffee-addled Traveler Foreign Stout (a.k.a. Renovator- an oily, filmy, vapidly creamy Guinness knockoff).

Between my premier April 2011 visitations to Shawnee Craft Brewery and three newish westbound brewpubs, stopped by wood-lodged Poconos standby once again. During one-hour jaunt, consumed sharp grape-skinned raisin-pruned Merlot-wined Old 99 Barleywine in goblet again. Its deeper phenolic hop astringency scraped up against candi-sugared purple grape and cherry undertones.

For my two-hour July 2012 sojourn with wife and youngest son, Chris, investigated several interesting new brews that bettered the flagship beers (which were no longer bottled for consumption but benefited from revised recipes by brewer Joe Percoco).

Indeed, Barley Creek’s revamped lineup served notice, but I was more impressed with the deeper flavor profile of several stylistically disparate newcomers. Though soapy Summerfest Lager was the weakest link (with its lightly creamed crystal malting, corn flaked astringency and teasing citric snare), its sessionable summer seasonality suited softer thirsts, as did phenol Export Ale (a brisk lemony grapefruit moderation with crisply roasted tobacco nuances).

Better were orange-soured, quince-minced, sweet-malted, vanilla-dried Maibock Lager and upgraded, orange-spiced, lemon-candied, creamily soft Iron Arm Belgian Wheat. Sharp grapefruit-peeled juniper bittering and floral perfuming consumed musky Spring Hop India Pale Lager.

On the dark side, ground coffee-dried, black chocolate-roasted, walnut-charred Bobby’s Breakfast Stout got outdone by nitro-fueled Mocha Latte Stout – with its creamy mocha latte theme, vanilla bean bittering, espresso nicety, hazelnut roast, black licorice snag, and sweet bourbon finish gaining luster over time.

MEETING THE BOSS – TRIP RUVANE – AT BARLEY CREEK, JANUARY 2017.

During my early January ’17 Poconos getaway, got to travel once more to Barley Creek. This time, I met owner, Trip Ruvane, a fun-loving character who has watched his ski barn-styled brewpub grow into one of the area’s most reliable food and beverage joints.

On tap this Tuesday afternoon are five previously untried brews. First up, easygoing Slippery Slope Pale Ale’s crisp mineral-watered lemony grapefruit tang gained mild grassy-hopped juniper bittering above its white wheat spine.

Next, briskly citric-hopped moderate-to-medium body, Citrabellum Double IPA, utilized Columbus, Citra, Simcoe, Cascade and Nelson Sauvin hops to promote lemony grapefruit, orange and peach ripeness over grassy oats-flaked graining.

Perhaps Barley Creek’s finest effort, Super Hop Triple IPA retained a sharp citrus hop bittering and refreshingly clean mineral-watered crisping to its resounding 11.5% fusel alcohol finish. Tangy orange-peeled yellow grapefruit entry picks up pineapple, peach and quince illusions above moderate caramel malt base.

Delightful dark ales ruled dessert!

Mildly creamed Wanderlust Chocolate Porter softly displayed bittersweet black-malted dark chocolate, cacao nibs and cola tones as its Hershey’s chocolate syrup addition thickened the mellowing mocha melange.

As nighttime beckoned, nitro-smooth Sullivan Trail Oatmeal Stout brought rich black chocolate-roasted dark cocoa overtures to charcoal-hopped oats toasting and black cherry wisps while retaining a delicately creamy eclair head.

Revisited Barley Creek early November ’20 and sat in side tent with wife and dog while consuming four previously untried suds.

Crisp First Tracks Cream Ale coalesced orange-rotted vegetal herbage with musky earthen soiling and slight fungi mossing.

Dry High Tide Amber Lager retained floral-spiced citrus oiling and musky mineral grained soiling.

Briskly carbolic Mango Saison jilted its bittersweet mango tartness for orange-dried guava souring, buttery Chardonnay whims and celery-like vegetalia.

A better tropical fruited choice was The Floor Is Guava Sour Ale. Its puckered guava bittering picked up lemon-limed green grape tannins over raw-grained minerality with impressive resolve.

www.barleycreek.com

PINNACLE PEAK

PINNACLE PEAKSCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA

Ranch-styled cowboy steakhouse PINNACLE PEAK, with its sawdust floors, home-style dining hall, ceiling-hung neckties, and business card-decorated walls drew hearty meat eaters, January ’05. But its pedestrain lighter-bodied brews were plain and ill defined.

Sedately diacetyl Blonde, bitter-hopped grapefruit-lemon-smitten Pale, mellow lemony-spiced Amber, dull-spiced gourd-charmed Pumpkin, and unassumingly citrus-y Hefeweizen paled next to excellent coffee-deep black chocolate-aided licorice-prune-accented Porter.

www.pppatio.com

ZONA BREWING COMPANY

ZONA BREWERYSCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA

Visited beautiful village of Scottsdale January ’05, stopping in plaza strip sited ZONA BREWING COMPANY (formerly Cowboy Brewing) and northerly Old West outpost PINNACLE PEAK. Zona, one of the Canyon State’s finest brewpubs, featured outdoor picnic area, spacious indoor dining, centralized bar, and plush billiards room. But the brewery ceased operations a few years hence.

Brewer Ryan Ashley’s antique beer can collection lined shelves at bar and pool room with brew tanks stationed at the rear. Soft-watered fig-soured Bavarian Dark, politely malt-stricken grain-based Helles Lager, wheat-dried grapefruit-rimmed Kolsch, and spiced yellow-fruited banana-clove-endowed Hefe-Weizen suited lighter palates. Better fare for experienced tastes included honey-dipped sugar-candied orange-bruised Dubbel Trouble and tangy orange-ripened malt-spruced hop-deepened India Pale Ale.

SARASOTA BREWING COMPANY

SARASOTA, FLORIDA

While on hiatus at brother-in-law (and ex-Connecticut beer distributor) Rob Neuner’s Gulf Coast summer retreat in Naples during November ‘08, plowed local Dunedin Pipers Pale Ale while relaxing at nearby Sanibel Island and Siesta Key beaches with wife and kids. 100 miles north of Naples in strip mall-lined Gulf Gate section of Sarasota lied cozy restaurant-sportsbar, SARASOTA BREWING COMPANY.

Windowed silver brew kettles greeted customers to stone-walled wood-sided low-ceilinged pub, where multiple TV’s, sports banners, and beer mugs adorn interior. Left bar opposes right dining area behind separate smaller center bar with private balcony above. A stone hearth added warmth. Guest tap beers included Guinness, Lagunitas, Sierra Nevada, and Lost Coast brews. Besides decent homemade root beer, vats contained six average-to-good selections.

Quaffed light Saaz-hopped citric-sweet floral-tinged Sarasota Gold and brisk lemon-zipped coriander-spiced acerbity Coriander Wheat with Cobb Salad and mushroom soup while Sunday NFL games started.

After lunch, imbibed musty lemon-bruised grass-hopped Old Prague Pilsner (boasting phenol alcohol pungency), diacetyl-laden caramel-coated orange-dried hop-embittered Sequoia Amber Lager, and dry fig-prune-soured red-fruited dark-spiced Sunset Red (subsumed by dank honeyed malts). For dessert, tried licorice-laced fig-dried cherry-pureed coffee-burnt Midnight Pass Porter.

On the way out, discovered Sarasota-based Norman’s Liquors, the best import-microbrew store in area. Sorry I couldn’t go one-hour north to TAMPA BAY BREWING COMPANY in Ybor City’s historic district, which is reminiscent of New Orleans’ Bourbon Street with its bohemian attitude and snug balcony.

www.restaurantsinsarasota.com

21ST AMENDMENT BREWERY

21ST AMENDMENTSAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA

The 1849 Gold Rush, 1906 earthquake, and 1967 Summer of Love, along with renovated Victorian houses and seductive skyscraper architecture, provide only an inkling of this Bay Area’s boomtown frontier history. A veritable bohemian delight first visited with wife, Karen, June ’01, its splendid Golden Gate Park can only be topped by Stinson Beach, a tropical paradise serving as a hippie haven body surfers relish. Windy Fisherman’s Wharf on north pier had recommended JACK’S AT THE CANNERY, which featured 110 different tap beers, including several Gordon Biersch, Golden Gate, and Humboldt brews.

At Haight-Ashbury section, bought excellent Lagunitas Bug Town and Imperial stouts, several excellent Stone brews, and superb Arrogant Bastard Ale.

Besides traveling to Napa Valley to sample various wine vineyards, spent Sausalito summer night at bayside Mexican joint Margaritaville to quaff Mad River John Barleycorn Barleywines.

The next evening brought dinner at San Rafael’s now-defunct WILLOW WOOD-FIRED PIZZA & BREWERY to try brewpubs’ wonderful Bad Ass Ale and several porter-stout samples. To the South along America’s most beautiful oceanside road, Route 1A, I found the dismal Carmel Wheat in Monterey and cracked open a resilient Steelhead Extra Stout and equally solid Steelhead Pale Ale somewhere near Big Sur.

I promise to discover San Francisco’s brewpub scene soon. In the meantime, enjoy 21ST AMENDMENT BREWERY, which has a great reputation.

Check Beer Index for reviews on bottled selection.

www.21st-amendment.com

SAN DIEGO BREWING

SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA

Three miles west of Oggi’s Pizza inside Mission Valley’s congested mall zone, friendly sports-pub SAN DIEGO BREWING is a true crown jewel discovered April ‘07. Opened in ’94 by the same folks who operate similar-styled Callahan’s, its tremendous tap selection (Belgians, Cali microbrews, etc.) and diligent original brews will please anyone with a thirst.

Mid-sized open space included wraparound L-shaped left side bar, sundry arcade games, several televisions, and a few stool tables. Reasonably priced food complemented brewer Dean Rouleau’s representative libations.

Steep woody-hopped orange peel bitterness saturates apple-peach tang of rapturous Admiral Baker Bitter. Even better, Hopnotic IPA’s piney grapefruit profundity and perfumed hop bitterness subtly catapult its tangy orange-apricot-peach blitz, finishing more dryly embittered than Admiral Baker.

Buttered nuts soften tea-like Old Town Nut Brown; Belgian candied yeast absorbs complex floral-banana respite of equally buttery Hefe Oscuro; bitter hop fizz recession leads to wild oats-sowed wheat-straw backed Grantville Gold; and a subtly hop-spiced blueberry-raspberry tartness spangles Callahan’s Blueberry Wheat.

For dessert, Chocolate Porter’s sweet hazelnut easement led to mild brown chocolate, vanilla bean, and ground coffee sedation.

Only unacceptable brew was enzyme-like phenol-hopped stone-fruited alcohol-burned San Diego Amber.

www.sandiegobrewing.com