On tap at NJ Beer Expo ’13, stylistically soft Scotch ale brings brown chocolate sweetness to roasted caramel malting. A hint of toffee found behind light-hopped fig-date dried fruiting of mahogany-hued medium body. Heady 9% alcohol volume well hidden behind high-gravity mocha binder.

Malleable ‘wee heavy’ brings peaty molasses-smoked Scotch malting to sharp-hopped dried fruiting. Fig-spiced cherry, plum and prune illusions cluster next to dim tobacco-roasted chocolate-vanilla conflux. Buttered pecan, vinous grape and caramel apple undertones fill out smooth medium body.

Harsh Scotch ale (with 8.5% alcohol) needs better distinction. Shrill hop-coarsened cherry-grape conflux seeps into honeyed Scotch malting, caramelized brown sugaring and chocolate-covered raisin smidgen as well as wavered whiskey whir. Sugared fig, purple grape, red cherry and black cherry tones receive syrupy maple molasses lick and minor coffee-stained snip, but gnarly alcohol burn scoffs compromised fruited plain.     

Arguably Sam Adams’ best 2011 newcomer, oak-aged full body gathers peat-smoked Scotch malting, hickory-seared maple sapping, burnt caramel sugaring and alcohol-stiffened bourbon whiskey warmth over hop-charred grain toasting. Ashy cedar singe penetrates tertiary black cherry, chocolate cake, rum-soaked raisin and cola nut illusions. It’s simply irresistible.

Affluent bourbon whiskey theme of oak-aged wee heavy Scotch ale brings creamy 10% alcohol warmth to ancillary rum-spiced cognac, raisin-pureed fruitcake and red cherry illusions. Molasses-sapped maple syrup, oaken vanilla, crème brulee, marshmallow and butternut niceties abound, rounding out sweet bourbon fervor. Mighty dessert nightcap bourbon-barreled for hearty sippers.

In conjunction with fellow California brewers Green Flash and Pizza Port, lactic ruddy brown medium body seems a tad complacent despite fine auspices. Sweet Scotch entry lacks resilience, submerging leathery tobacco-peat dryness, brown-sugared molasses-cocoa fizzle, and blanched dried-fruited latency. Sugared fig, plum, and raisin illusions casually stroll by cardamom-spiced fruitcake center. Surprisingly ineffectual and watery, if not drab.

Stylishly confounding lactic-soured wee heavy lacks expectant sweet Scotch rampage, but impulsive earthen peat soiling above wavered caramel-chocolate malting finds space amongst blackstrap molasses, sour date, cola nut, and fennel illusions. Pungent compost-wafted fungi-smudged damp-wooded soy milking infiltrates chalky cocoa subsidy. Closer to a brown or black ale given low Scotch profile.

Robust Scotch-styled winter solstice celebration with robust black chocolate urgency and coarse resinous hop roasting brings expectant mesquite-smoked Scotch malting and dewy peat graining to surging fig-dried date-sugared cocoa sweetness. Its backend alcohol burn reinforces sullen whiskey musk, subsidiary stone fruiting, and tertiary dried tobacco roast.

Supposed ‘traditional Belgian-styled Scotch ale’ retains unexpected rauchbier appeal. Mossy peat-smoked meat-cured rye-breaded salami opening receives sweet brown chocolate malting, mild heather-tipped fig-spiced green raisin prompt, and tertiary Bosc pear snip. Despite unusual configuration, unique medium-to-full-bodied spin-off succeeds.

Incipient American-brewed Belgian-styled Scotch ale (perused in 2010) makes good impression. Deep amber-hued medium body brings dry Scotch malting to hop-spiced cherry-pureed banana-breaded purple grape wining. Candi-sugared fungi-like yeast sinew provides obligatory Belgian ale character to sour-mashed apple chutney ascension as well as tertiary pine nut, hazelnut, and chestnut illusions.

Creamy caramel-malted cherry-pureed medium-to-full body cuts bittersweet chocolate-covered raisin and spiced prune-fig thickness with sharp carbolic fizz. Peat-y wood-smoked whiskey overtones drape seasonal cinnamon-allspice-nutmeg midst. Raspberry, anise, and cola nut play backup.