Bitterer but not better than usual holiday offerings, ‘06 ruby amber seasonal loads prune-soured cinnamon-nutmeg-gingerbread-allspice piquancy above weak brown ale-like nutty dryness, toasted hop astringency, teasing chicory dip, and ashy cinder parch. Dulled out pumpkin-pomegranate scamp fades to orange soufflé vamp. Needs better dimension and distinction.

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