August ’04 visit convinced me there are more quality brewpubs within the Motor City’s extended boundaries than any other American city. Arguably the finest, tiny Dragonmead in westerly suburb, Warren, offered 50+ handcrafted on-tap brews, though admirable neighboring competitor Kuhnhenn has brewed nearly as many since opening. Nearby Royal Oak had three reputable brewpubs. Plus, three dependable brewpubs line Detroit’s urban innercity.

In the historic warehouse district along historic Rivertown (across from Windsor, Ontario), high-ceilinged turn-of-the-century brick factory building, ATWATER BLOCK BREWERY, had large glass-enclosed brew tanks behind wood bar serving well rounded beers while kitchen catered garden salads, soups, fish ‘n chips, and sundry appetizers. Seating booths scatter the main dining space and a fireplace dons the left side supper area.

Quaffed brewer Mark Reith’s swanky citric-soured wheat-husked Atwater Kolsch over lunch, buying bottled versions of Atwater Pilsner, Hell Pale Lager, and Dunkel Dark Lager plus Stoney Creek Double Chocolate Ale and superlative Vanilla Porter (reviewed in Beer Index).

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