Plain pale body lacks head and body, posing initial concern for extremely light, unassuming Croatian. Fizzy lemon hop frontage, sourdough breaded continuance, and husked grain constraint coalesce to washed-out off-dry diacetyl finish undermining weak wheat biscuit essence.
All posts by John Fortunato
KALNAPILIS EXPORT LAGER
Sour doughy malts contrast honeyed wheat insistence of mildly creamy medium-bodied pale-toned ‘helles’ lager. Lemony herbal hop nuance defers harsh astringency.
KALIK PREMIUM PILSENER
Palest yellow-bellied Bahamian with lemony grapefruit aroma lines limed pineapple tang across balmy corn-sugared toasted barley restraint to zippy agave quip. Plain, watery summer treat reasonably steadfast for such a light-bodied beer.
KAISERDOM RAUCHBIER
Lusciously syrupy Bavarian dark beer matches aromatic Scotch sweetness to burnt wood chip essence and smoked barley-oat spine. Frisky spiced hops enhance ashy mouthfeel while persistent caramel-maple malts sweeten well-rounded composition for lean full-bodied heavyweight.
(KAISER) A MARCA BAVARIA
Pearly-headed clear-bodied pilsner with fizzy sugared pep, scant soured yeast tenure, and light maize lilt collapses due to feeble grain base. Sunny citrus splendor softens slender soapy finish.
(KAISER) PALMA LOUCA WILD PALM LAGER
Translucent ivory-yellowed ‘premium pilsner’ brings tart lemon spritz, unleavened bread musk, and grassy hop pitch to spotty dry maize finish redolent of Corona with lime slice. Just a hair less inspired than Kaiser’s mediocre A Marca Bavaria.
J.W. LEES MOONRAKER ALE
Gritty, reddish purple-hazed, 7.5% alcohol-fueled, barleywine-styled winter warmer in short long-neck 9.9-ounce bottle lacks expectant molasses malt thickness. Nonetheless, fulsome yeast sinew, milk chocolate coating, burnt caramel seducement, and muted dried fruiting bring luster. Stewed prune, dried apricot, banana taffy, fig, plum and cherry illusions seep into honeyed mocha backdrop.
J.W. LEES MANCHESTER STAR ALE
Head brewer Giles Dennis celebrates 2004 Brewer of the Year award with superior mahogany dry-bodied Baltic-styled porter deceptively labeled an ‘ale.’ Mocha-chocolate waft enhances burnt caramel core, candied Scotch sweetness, vanilla-marshmallow resonation, and honeyed maple-molasses dab. Secondary smoked cedar, charred wood chip, cashew, and tar illusions softened by chewy chocolate cake finish. Yummy sherry-rum thicket fills deep bruised cherry-dried apricot recess.
J.W. LEES HARVEST ALE (SHERRY CASK) 2003
Overripe cherry sweetness gives sherry-casked edition brighter fruited malt palate than other Harvest spin-offs. Secondary peach brandy and whiskey-soaked orange twang seemingly expedite caramelized stewed prune illusion.
J.W. LEES HARVEST ALE (PORT CASK) 2003
Thoroughly alcoholic port-styled ale picks up sherry twang as creamy malt elegance subsides. Subtle spices, herbs, and floral illusions decorate resplendent backdrop.
J.W. LEES HARVEST ALE (LAGAVULIN WHISKY CASK) 2004
Rich maltose underpins sweet bourbon-brandy-Grant Monet sinew, settling to oak-tinged barleywine finish. Smoked wood chip delusion picks up earthen peat satchel jacketing bruised orange and vanilla bean illusions. Heart throbbing after dinner seduction may lack rich creaminess of worthier Calvados-casked brethren, but not its sturdy radiance.
J.W. LEES HARVEST ALE (LAGAVULIN WHISKY CASK) 2003
Matured in whisky casks, sweet sticky ale meshes ashy moss earthiness with orange-bruised cherry tang. Herbal nuance punctuates overripe tangerine-peach punch. Arguably the best of ’03s cask conditioned bunch.