All posts by John Fortunato

GASLIGHT BREWERY

United States Brewpubs

Gaslight Brewery - About | Facebook

NEW JERSEY – NORTH

“A family friendly roundabout for all walks of life” is how Tony Soboti describes his family-owned and operated South Orange haven, GASLIGHT BREWERY & RESTAURANT. Located right in the center of town just a few doors down from the railroad station, this amiable three-roomed pub also maintains its status as a local homebrew supplier since 1998. A cozy red brick-walled oasis not far from Seton Hall University, my wife and I first visited Gaslight on Memorial weekend, May ’06.

Amongst the gas lantern-lined town square, Gaslight’s green awning welcomes patrons to a snug horseshoe-shaped oak bar with TV’s at all sides. A tucked-in right side area and private back seating provide family-styled dining. On top of offering terrific stylistically diversified home brews, there is also a great revolving bottled selection (Corsendonk, Westmalle, Sam Smith, Chimay, Schneider, Stone) plus expansive menu (chicken, pasta, sandwiches, pizza). A choice bottled beer collection, fluorescent beer signs, banners, licence plates, dartboards, bar trays, and one shuffleboard table were strewn about.

Gaslight’s auspices go back to when Dan Soboti and his son, Danny, began home brewing together. By ’93, they opened a home brew supply store in Maplewood on Valley Street (now located upstairs at Gaslight). Danny completed his undergrad studies and went out to University of California-Davis to attend the Master Brewers Program. Gaslight officially opened June 1998, after four months of demolition, construction, installation and inspections. Joined by Danny’s mom, Cindy (executive chef), and brother, Tony (kitchen boss), their first three beers were Bison Brown, Bulldog Blonde and a Dark Mild.

Country Inn magazine originally rented the upstairs, but Gaslight soon took it over and used the space to host private parties. Storage and the home brewing equipment also fill up the loft space.

The Draft Board 15, a beer appreciation club with newsletter, was set up by Gaslight’s minions to attract fellow home brewers and beer geeks. They usually meet the second Sunday of every month and try to get speaker reps from different breweries. Mini home brew competitions infrequently take place.

Upon first visitation in May ’06, my wife quaffed Belgian’s excellent raspberry soda-like Lindeman’s Framboise Lambic, appreciatively available on tap. Meanwhile, the copper brew kettles at the entrance and right side tanks served a well-rounded selection of on-the-money libations. Phenol hop-fizzed, grassy-grained, tobacco-dried Bulldog Blonde suits less discriminating novice tastes, but beer aficionados will want to move on to chewy malt-sugared, grapefruit-peeled, orange-dried, floral-accented dry body Pinhead Pilsner and mildly orange-grapefruit-embittered, sweet cracked wheat-backed, almond-tinged ESB.

Soft-tongued, sour-citric, Scotch-tinged, wheat-backed Kolsch and subtly citric, gently-hopped, cereal-grained Pirate Pale Ale were good moderate bodied delectables.

Better and stronger were alcohol-burnt, honeyed-malted, orange-bruised, peach-soured, fig-pecan-snipped The Eliminator Helles Bock and creamy nitro-injected, black chocolate-roasted, coffee bean-dried Perfect Stout. Abstruse CC Porter draped dry raspberry puree coarseness and sour grape esters atop ancillary orange rind, green apple, seared walnut, and cocoa-coffee bean illusions to Black Forest Cake finish. And I took home a growler of award winning corn-sugared, grain-toasted, light-hopped Slalom Cream Ale.

Upon April ’08 revisit, discovered mild sweet-corned, orange-fruited, biscuit-backed, soapy-finishing Governator Vienna Lager and two tart dark beers. Big Dog Porter had peat-like coffee-burnt raisin-soured chocolate-browned persuasion. Colossus Imperial Stout maintained sourly sun-dried fig-prune-date theme submerging dry cocoa-chocolate respite.

During May ’09 stopover, quaffed astringent coffee-burnt, chocolate-soured, walnut-bound, lemon-orange-spoiled Bison Brown, sedate pinot grigio-dried, cider-sharp, lemon-soured, cask conditioned Pit Bull Bitter, and woody dry-hopped, apple-orange-fig-draped, currant-embittered, plastic-like softie Zum Alt Dorf.

Better were oaken bourbon-burgundy-sherry-fronted, fig-dried date-sugared 3 Ring IPA and the intensely hop-embittered, bark-dried, alcohol-burnt, grapefruit-peeled, apricot-apple-tangerine-fruited B.A. Massive.

During my September 2011 lunchtime sojourn, I finally got to try the highly praised Abbey Normal, a Belgian-styled dubbel dark ale boasting up-front Merlot, burgundy and bourbon wining over prune-soured fig sugaring, Belgian chocolate spicing, and dark floral accents. More approachable, lighter-bodied Belgian-styled ales included medium-bodied Belgo Pale Ale (a mandarin orange-centered, lemon-fizzed, fig-dried softie with funky brettanomyces yeast souring) and the milder My Garden Wit (a perfume-hopped, citric-fruited, coriander-spiced, floral-backed moderation gathering wispy curacao orange, Japanese pear and tangerine nuances). Congenial Hopfest, with its easygoing grapefruit-peeled juniper bittering, spiced tropical fruiting, slight alcohol burn and briny salting, utilized woody Amarillo and Cascade hops.

www.gaslightbrewery.com

INTERVIEW WITH CO-OWNER-BREWER DANNY SOBOTI

My friend Fred and I dug into our Turkey Jalapeno and Reuben Pastrami sandwiches while I conversed with Danny at the bar.

One of Gaslight’s most popular seasonals is the burgundy-wined, Belgian-candied, chocolate-malted Abbey Normal.

DANNY SOBOTI: We do a big promotion for it when it comes out, showing Young Frankenstien on the TV all day. I did a traditional double fermentation with it. We do our mash, send it over to the kettle, and after we’re done with our boil it’s sent over to the fermenter. We use Belgian yeast and it ferments real warm at 85 degrees. There’s a spicy character. After two days of primary fermentation the temperature drops down and we add the Belgian candy to the fermenter and you get a real nice caramel or burnt sugaring.

Many of your ales are English-styled. Is that a personal preference?

We do a lot of English style ales, but we always try to have at least one lager on – but the fermentation takes longer and ties up the tanks while we’re doing it. We also try to have one Belgian on. Our core beers are British but the Hopfest is an American Pale Ale with American hops and malts and the Bulldog Blonde is an American Golden Ale.

Is the approachable Bulldog Blonde your best seller?

I’d say it was. When we started out, I was making that every third batch. Now it’s gone down, but the seasonals wind up taking over and selling the most. People look forward to them. Our Octoberfest will be coming out late September. Each time you make a relatively small batch, there’s always gonna be minor variations. People enjoy picking out the differences with each batch. Budweiser goes for mass appeal. Over the years, the big brewers have branched out – the way it used to be when Newark had ten or fifteen breweries pre-prohibition. They had a bock in the spring and a summer or winter beer.

One of my favorite Gaslight beers is the intensely hop-embittered, bark-dried, grapefruit-peeled, tangerine-tinged B.A. Massive.

We use Apollo hops in there. We get a lot of our hops from Steiner Hops, an English company. A lot of brewers use Hop Union. But Steiner’s a bigger hop producer with farms all over the world. They do a lot of breeding. Apollo and Bravo are two of their newer hops – utilizing high oil content. These hops have a classic American character – spiciness, citrus, and pine. I like them. And B.A. Massive is one of my favorites. The bitterness level isn’t ridiculous, but we add hops continuously throughout the boil. It has a lot of hop character but it’s not enough to cause palate fatigue.

Water is the main ingredient in beer. How are your pH levels?

Our water stays pretty consistent. We don’t have to adjust the pH too much. It’s slightly acidic. Our light beers I add a little lactic acid to the mash to keep the color down. In our dark stuff, stouts and porter, I usually add some calcium carbonate to take the edge off.

What do you believe separates Gaslight from the other dozen Jersey brewpubs?

I’d say how much stuff we make here. We make the beer here and as much of the food as possible. We make all of our own breads with a smoker. We make the pastrami, barbecued pork and chicken, pickles, all the desserts. Cindy, my mom, comes up with the specials. We also have a suggested pairing to go along with the specials menu. There’s usually three or four special entrees and some special desserts.

UNO CHICAGO GRILL & BREWERY

United States Brewpubs

NEW JERSEY – NORTH

On the way home from upper Delaware brewpub tour February ‘06, originally visited Metuchen’s unique UNO CHICAGO GRILL & BREWERY (formerly Pizzeria Uno), the only stateside restaurant chain brewpub. Multiple TV’s at every conceivable corner surround right side dining, left side bar (with copper kettles near glass back), and central drinking area of freestanding pub on busy Route 1.

Quaffed prickly dry-hopped lemon-bruised grapefruit-soured wheat-chaffed maize-parched Bootlegger Blonde Ale, fruity caramel-roasted Station House Red Ale, bohemian malt-lagered citrus-hopped black-peppered pilsner-light 32 Inning Ale, and coffee bean-fronted chocolate nut-bottomed Gust-N-Gale Porter.

Better choices showing greater depth were sharp floral-fruited hop-embittered Ike’s India Pale Ale and terrific rust-glowed yeast-sinewy Weiss N’ Bock, with its buttery rum theme, candied malt sweetness, bruised orange permeation, and banana-pear fling.

June ’08, tried moderate-bodied Seltzer-like lemon-orange-candied pineapple-apricot-teased pepper-spiced Belgian Wit (served with orange wedge).

On lunchtime July ’10 sojourn to Jersey Shore, stopped by for lemon-wedged floral-tinged citrus-soured Hefeweizen (with its mandarin orange, banana, and clove intrigue). Also discovered nebulous Band-Aid-scented Scotch-dried phenol-spiced copper ale-like Scotch Ale, an astringent barley-toasted peat-smoked pecan-backed misfire that’d vastly improve by next visit.

During November 2011 lunchtime stopover, my friend Fred and I dipped into a sampler tray before discovering one previously untried libation. New brewer Chris Percello (who came aboard over the summer) tweaked a few recipes and upped the quality a bit. Our friendly bartending hostess, Alina, kept us entertained while serving Cuban black bean lentil soup, New York clam chowder, thin crust pizza (with roasted eggplant, fetta cheese, pesto, and tomatos) and deep dish pizza (pepperoni, sausage, green peppers, onions).

Best selling Ike’s India Pale Ale retained a fruitier pining and sturdier hop footprint. A deeper nuttiness, richer roasted hop thrust and dewier peat malting elevated the updated Station House Red Ale. And the dryly nutty Gust-N-Gale Porter easily sufficed.

Afterwards, we got to premier a green version of Uno’s top seasonal offering, the bettered chocolate-spiced version of Scotch Ale, with its peat-y earthen graining, dark caramel malting and caraway-seeded fennel illusions.

Possibly the best selection this sunny afternoon was the American-styled Dark Lager, a quirky medium-bodied German knockoff attaching sedate peanut-oiled mocha dryness to subtle peat-smoked chocolate roast.

To make Uno even more appealing to nearby Route 287 and Garden State Parkway passangers, the $2 happy hour draughts get served Monday thru Friday 4 to 7 and 10 to closing.

 

www.pizzeriauno.com

TUN TAVERN BREWERY

United States Brewpubs

Tun Tavern, Atlantic City, NJ: A Restaurant ReviewNEW JERSEY – SOUTH

To begin March ’05, went to gambling mecca, Atlantic City, visiting Firewaters at Tropicana Resort (tasting draft selections while admiring 101 bottled beer assortment) before landing at TUN TAVERN BREWERY. Located next to Convention Center in Sheraton Hotel since ’97, Tun’s known for the “best steaks in Jersey.” Opening to a U-shaped bar with left side brew tanks and secondary loft bar, this commodious blue-walled sienna wood-furnished public house had high ceilings, open kitchen, roomy dining area, and routine mash tun aroma.

Brewer Ted Briggs (replaced by Flying Fish Brewery’s Tim Kelly after accepting Lake Placid Brewery job) obligingly offered chewy Freedom Ale 2004 Barleywine, a dazzling 11% alcohol specialty brew aged in Jack Daniels barrels. Its dry-hopped chocolate liqueur frontage picked up bruised orange, plum, raisin, prune, and cherry jubilee nuances, settling to bourbon-warmed vanilla finish.

Alcohol-soaked banana-ripened cherry-stained Quafdruple, caramelized mocha-seeped coffee-bottomed Nut Brown, and exquisite peachy-keen floral-hopped candy-sugared All American IPA were highlights.

Band-aid-nosed perfume-hopped corn-malted Tun’s Best English-Style Bitter, diacetyl apricot-slacked, wheat-strawed,maize-dried, club soda-like, herbal tea-tinged Tun Light Golden Ale, citric-prone cocoa-powdered dusty-floral hop-roasted Irish Red, and mild oats-faded, black chocolate-waned Black Jack Oatmeal Stout soothe less discrete tastes. Light-finishing autumnal Pumpkin Ale brought pumpkin pie spicing to cinnamon-nutmeg-allspice grip.

During January ’07 Tun Tavern revisit, tried worthy red-fruited juniper-hopped raw-grained fig-date-dried Devil Dog Pale Ale (though full-bodied barley-flaked cappuccino-chocolate-serenaded Leatherneck Stout was unavailable).

In November ’07, brewer Tim Kelly sat along as I quaffed astringent pumpkin-spiced hop-spritzed butternut-squash-quince-dabbed cinnamon-ginger-nutmeg-pinched salt-watered Chuckin’ Pun’kin. Thereafter, he brought down interesting, if green, Gruit-styled Winter Warmer, an easy flowing curative with primary sassafras theme overlaying eucalyptus, caraway seed, dried fig, and radish illusions.

Finally, sampled elusive Leatherneck Stout, a leather-dried cedar-singed Band-aid-nosed medium body placating burnt coffee frontage with ample toasted nuttiness. Afterwards, quaffed 22-ounce bottle of Tun Tavern Grand Cru, a terrific medicinal-honeyed Belgian-styled ale with caramelized apple hook, Drambuie liqueur line, and bruised banana-orange sinker overriding brown-sugared clove-coriander spicing.

During April ’20, tried sessionably soft-toned Eldorado Splash, a brown tea-hued English-styled IPA scattering dry earthen pine, herbal musk, bracken fern and sawgrass illusions across apple-skinned grapefruit, brown pear and apricot sedation.

www.tuntavern.com

BASIL T’S

United States Brewpubs

NEW JERSEY – SOUTH

February ’05, first visited ORIGINAL BASIL T’S (now Basil T’s) in Red Bank, an authentic Italian restaurant not affiliated with similarly named Toms River brewpub less than a half hour away (now known as Artisan’s). An exquisite alehouse with hundreds of personalized beer mugs hovering over the rectangular bar, its left windowed brew tanks have been active since 1997.

Doors open directly to snug green tile-floored bar area (with six high definition televisions) across right side dining where fresh mozzarella cheeses get displayed. Exquisite wood interior adds warmth and a plethora of fine Italian wines contrast the fine homemade brews. Though long-time brewer Gretchen Schidhausler departed June ’11, ex-Pizzeria Uno brewmaster Mike Sella took over without disruption.

Fabulous pizza dishes are recommended alongside citric wheat-husked, dry-grained, light-bodied Ms. Lucys Weimaraner Wheat and dry tea-like, tobacco-sweet, Scottish seasonal Iceboat Ale.

Medium-bodied fare include piney spice-hopped, floral-citric Rosie’s Tail Waggin Pale Ale and caramelized red-fruited, coffee-soured, nut-roasted Basil’s Rocket Red.

Best bets may be darker styles: bitter coffee-burnt, espresso-beaned, mocha-chalked Big Vig’s Short Order Porter and black chocolate-roasted, espresso-coffee-deepened, hop-seared Maxwell’s Dry Stout.

Spent an hour revisiting (Original) Basil T’s on steamy August ’09 afternoon prior to body surfing at Brick Township’s Ocean Club. Drained pints of raw-grained, hop-oiled, maize-dried, sour-mashed, yellow-fruited, vegetal-finishing Summer XXX Ale and pine-sapped, hazelnut-roasted, hop-charred, coffee-stained, cigar-ashy, espresso-deepened American Brown Ale.

During June 2011 revisit, got familiar with two more exciting brews that went well alongside wonderful zuppa di piselli (rustic pea soup w/ cheese-grated vegetables). Though I’d missed stylishly intriguing Cocoa Fuoco by two days, spice-tingled citric spritzer, Extra Special Bitter, and superior adjunct ale, Honey Basil Wheat, with its sweet-honeyed basil, thyme, and hibiscus illusions, kept afternoon patrons happy (alongside the ever-popular Maxwell’s Stout).

For late-July ’11 respite on the way to Mantoloking getaway, The Ocean Club, my wife and kids shared a rapini pizza (broccoli rabe, mozzerella cheese, grape tomatos and chili flakes) while I quaffed two previously untried libations.

A certain lacquered nuttiness, dark chocolate caress, and wood-burnt bittering saddled American Brown Ale, spreading Brazil nut, walnut, cashew, and peanut illusions above ashen earthiness. Astringently dry-hopped fruit ale, Peach Wheat, brought corn-husked honeyed wheat graining to wispy unripe white peach tartness.

It’s nearly dinnertime, March 2012, on a Monday, as I trudge into Basil T’s once more. For March, founder Victor Rollo’s celebrating his authentic Italian restaurant dining experience with a 26th anniversary Big Price Rollback. A brewpub for over a decade now, this classy shore-bound hotspot got packed by 4 PM. Jackson Browne’s classic “Runnin’ On Empty” played in the low ceiling bar area as many locals enjoy the special cheap fare alongside favorite brews such as Maxwell’s Dry Stout and Ms. Lucys Weimaraner Wheat.

I feast on outstanding Cozze mussels (with chickpeas) then complementary chicken wings while consuming Basil T’s latest fine offering, the stylistically easygoing Luppoli IPA. Its ripe fruited milieu and creamy caramel malting saturated spruce-tipped dry hops. A spicy tingle penetrated tangy pink grapefruit, peach, orange and nectar illusions. I drain a second pint before heading safely home again.

www.basilt.com

ARTISAN’S BREWERY & ITALIAN GRILL

United States Brewpubs

NEW JERSEY – SOUTH

Located in a freestanding gold Mediterranean stucco building at Toms River-based Seacourt Pavilion, ARTISAN’S BREWERY & ITALIAN GRILL began as Basil T’s (originally visited September 2004 during  extensive Garden State journey initiated at another easterly seabound alehouse in central Jersey, Woodbridge’s J.J. Bitting).

By 2010, the Gregorakis family, owners of Basil T’s, changed their upscale brewery-grill to ARTISAN’S in order to avoid confusion with nearby Red Bank’s similarly named brewery.

On first stopover, my wife and I enjoyed the casual intimacy of this recommended midsize eatery (with private cigar lounge). At dimly lit piano bar, we sampled the nicely diversified and oft-times delicate brews emanating from the leftside brew tanks. Along with family-styled Italian food (Marguerite pizza/ Giambotta), dry-spiced wheat husker Barnegat Light Ale; sourly lemon-bruised caramel roaster Toms River Red Ale; muted orange-peach-melon-fruited, mildly Cascade-hopped American Pale Ale;  praline-honeyed, hazelnut-buttered, macadamia-sugared Nut Brown Ale; light-spiced, wheat-sullen Sunset Ale; and dry orange-bruised, lemon-tart Hefeweizen easily passed muster. These beer recipes would soon take a major step up.

Upon July ’08 revisit, Climax Brewery brewmaster Dave Hoffmann was brought onboard to improve the quality and diversity of Basil T’s (now Artisan’s) new-fashioned beer selection. Along with Cobb Salad and Flatbread Mediterranean Pizza, quaffed lemony plantain-fronted, fig-date-receded, dry-bodied Basil T’s Light Ale, white-breaded, grassy-hopped, mineral-grained, lemon-perfumed Helles Lager, balmy sweet ‘n sour banana-centered, lemon-bruised, cereal-grained, chocolate-malted Dunkelweizen, and red-yellow-fruited caramel-malted Maibock.

Better still were spritz-y lemon-hopped, banana-breaded, malt-lacquered Hefeweizen (served with an orange slice), mildly coffee-roasted, orange-dried, fennel-tapered, earthen-finishing, Irish-styled Red Ale and honey-roasted, banana-blustered, floral-spiced, hop-embittered English Extra Special Ale. After lunch, relished soft-hopped, wood-dried, apple-orange-pear-brightened West Coast Style IPA.

On my June ’11 stopover, I took a seat at the U-shaped, slate-topped central bar to try delicious feta-stuffed lamb meatballs and cream of mushroom soup with five soft, approachable beers and one robust Bavarian pils.

“I concentrate on making well-balanced beer,” brewer Dave Hoffmann claimed as he tendered a newly brewed German Pilsner that retains a bold hop-embittered aggression to counter its crisp rye graining and dainty lemon-rotted grapefruit wisp.

Hoffmann doesn’t try to hit you over the head with outrageous hop bittering or obnoxious alcohol persistence, keeping beer profiles accessible to mainstream customers as well as obliging aficionados. Though his springtime weizenbock and maibock were gone by time I arrived, tart banana bubble-gummy Hefeweizen (with its perfume-hopped green apple and white grape nuances) nicely sufficed.

Best selling standard fare still includes grassy-hopped, yellow-fruited, alfalfa-dried, barnyard-leathered Artisan’s Lite Ale and subtle pine-needled, red-fruited, biscuit-buttered West Coast IPA. Better still were peanut-shelled, walnut-bound, chocolate-chipped, molasses-backed Nut Brown Ale and ESB-like, caramel-toasted, coffee-roasted, wood-grained Artisan’s Red Ale.

After a long July ’11 week of body surfing in Long Beach Island, headed north to Toms River and once again perused Artisan’s for lunch. Seated directly behind the brew tanks with family, I noticed a beautiful canvass-like mural exhibiting the brewing process (spread across the interior wall above our heads). The goat cheese salad was delightful, as was my wife’s Mediterranean pizza.

Getting down to business, brewer Dave Hoffmann supplied a newfangled English-Style IPA that truly hit its stylistic mark. Its mild mineral-watered crispness centered the amiable spice-hopped yellow fruiting, grainy pumpernickel breading, mossy black tea herbage and veering nutty undertones.

Better still, Hoffmann’s 10th Anniversary Dunkelweizen reigned supreme. Boasting an unanticipated hop-roasted coffee entry, its ashen mocha malting saddles earthen red, purple and Muscat grape esters with lively banana-pureed black cherry, burgundy and Merlot illusions for a bold, yet congenial, template.

At mid-afternoon on a Saturday in March, 2012, my wife and I settled at Artisan’s after perusing Carton Brewery half an hour north. We get seated in the intimate left dining area, a cozily romantic space where I down brewer Dave Hoffmann’s two latest libations. (Cigar aficionados should be advised that a sectioned off area accommodates smokers.)

I’ve always found Hoffmann’s general fare to be refined and soft-toned. And the man who splits time fronting Climax Brewery would not disappoint this time.

The amiable Artisan Bock balanced mild chocolate-roasted coffee tones with sugared fig, dried cherry, musty grape and wafting cellar dew. Arguably better, coffee-roasted dark chocolate leanings and earthen peat malts secured Baltic stout-like Chocolatey Porter, a waterier dark ale crowding hazelnut, peanut and macadamia undertones in a crisply clean manner.

I’m completely full after chowing down Artisan’s incredibly generous $14 Early Bird Special consisting of rich mushroom soup, Bleu cheese salad, stuffed flounder (with spinach and feta cheese) and strawberry-topped cheesecake. I don’t even sample my wife’s Mediterranean Flatbread Pizza (gathering hummus, olives, roasted peppers, caramelized onions and feta) until I reach home nearly an hour later.

After visiting Hoffman at Climax, drove half-hour down to Artisan’s to try two new offerings. Just slightly more aggressive than Climax IPA, easily approachable WaCoCiCaN! IPA combined high alpha Warrior hops, wood-toned Columbus hops, citric Centennial hops, floral-fruited Cascade hops and experimental Newport hops for a lemony orange-grapefruit tang resonating above caramelized Vienna malts and celery watering with proper acidic astringency.

For dessert, milky cocoa-fronted Hazelnut Oatmeal Stout let black chocolate, vanilla and espresso overtones and ancillary chocolate mint, cappuccino, coconut and biscotti oatmeal illusions receive tar-like hop bittering in the dewy midst.

www.artisanstomsriver.com

J.J. BITTING

United States Brewpubs

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NEW JERSEY – NORTH

In September 2004, I began an extensive journey through the Garden State, initially hitting Woodbridge’s J.J. BITTING BREWING, an easterly sea-bound alehouse in central Jersey just across Staten Island.

As I went along, sojourning to the State’s thirteen well-run brewpubs, it was easiest to divide Jersey in half via North and South sections.

Because two of New Jersey’s biggest urban areas (Trenton; Paterson) lack brewpub representation, I thought it’d be difficult for brewpub enthusiasts to recognize where all these small town suburban, rural, and seabound breweries throughout my home state were without getting ‘em lost on the journey. Therefore, I’ve split the map down the center and created North-South borders.

J.J. BITTING, based at an old red brick grain depot with archaic 3-story tower since 1997, flaunted rustic square bar with several TV’s and overhead toy locomotive encircling its perimeter. Crown Royal and Dewars insignias line its brick walls alongside other antiques. Midsection glass-encased brew tanks separated bar from stone-floored dining section while balcony area and back deck provided further seating.

Well portioned pub fare went well with admirable lighter brews mainstream patrons may enjoy, such as spicy floral-hopped Garden State IPA, mildly bitter, raspberry-seeded, fructose-dabbed Raspberry Wheat Ale, spicy pale-malted Victoria’s Golden Ale, and dry Saaz-hopped, wheat-chaffed, yellow-fruited lightweight Rat Pack Pilsner.

Heartier thirsts will lean towards hop-embittered, caramel-roasted, alcohol-astringent best seller, Avenel Amber. Excellent cappuccino-milked, coffee-enriched, dry-bodied Cappa Cappa Crusher Porter, with its tertiary wood-charred tobacco chew and hazelnut illusions, proved worthy as dessert-like digestif.

Hung out with brewer, James Moss (replaced by Port 44 brewmeister, Chris Sheehan in October), during sweltering June ’11 afternoon, quaffing three previously untried potions. Moss, in his second year, worked at RAM in Tacoma before heading east. His well-rounded beers represent an array of American-styled elixirs.

Approachable hop-spiced WHALES Brew IPA boasted grapefruit-embittered, pine-combed, Cascade hop bitterness contrasting apple-candied apricot-cherry-tangerine tang. Blackjack Stout placated its coffee-roasted brown chocolate frontage with ashen hop-charred oats, peat-smoked molasses malts, and black cherry nuances. Best bet: cask-conditioned Barleywine, a cherry-bruised, prune-stewed, raisin-pureed, burgundy-spiced softie with creamy chocolate center, Scotch whiskey daub, and peat mossing.

As I finish my selections, dinnertime’s approaching and the bar fills up with casual businessmen and women getting off the train across the street. Meanwhile, midsection brew tanks ready summer seasonals such as Woodbridge Light, Strasse Hefeweizen, Raspberry Wheat and Triple XXX.

 

Good friend and experienced zymurgist Chris Sheehan reigned supreme since joining J.J. Bitting, October 2011 (leaving two years hence to start Bronx’s Gunhill Road Brewery) . After creating many fine adjunct brews at now-defunct Port 44 Newark and Manhattan’s still-thriving Chelsea Brewing Company, the slender Sheehan landed in Woodbridge to replace Oregon-bred James Moss (who left when his wife took a professional position in Massachusetts).

During my early December ’11 jaunt, I discovered four previously untried libations alongside Bitting’s delectable crabcake sandwich plus codfish and chips dish. Sheehan’s latest entry, the wryly-implied Rye Humor, worked fine as a well-balanced session beer less discriminating tastes will feel comfortable quaffing and more experienced thirsts won’t disparage. Its spicy rye entry brightens zesty foods while the dried orange tartness affably attenuates ancillary dry fig-date nuances.

Next up were two mocha-bound brews. The lighter hand-pumped Coal Train Porter – Cask brought peanut-shelled brown chocolate and cocoa-powdered acridity to tobacco-dried earthen peat, picking up auxiliary bark-parched dried fruit tartness over generously resin-hopped bittering.

“When the Chocolate Cherry Stout kicks, the regular porter will come out of the serving tank and we’ll tap it after Christmas,” Sheehan offers as I take a few healthy sips. “Then it’ll be on regular draught with plenty of time to settle. I expect it to be clearer and the carbonation will add effervescence. But I haven’t yet tasted it on the regular draught. I haven’t assessed the carbonation or taken measures to adjust it. The Palisades hops are pretty prominent and verge on American-styled citrus, but are not overly assertive. Some earthen English character comes through.”

The above-referenced Chocolate Cherry Stout, an aggressively English-styled fruited dark ale, bulges with bittersweet black chocolate resin above modest black and red cherry dryness, gaining tertiary roasted coffee, burnt caramel and café latte illusions for a completely robust dessert beer.

But Sheehan’s busiest and possibly best offering this afternoon may be the updated Woodbridge Winter Warmer. Its brown-sugared caramel malting gets inside the wintry cinnamon-toasted gingerbread, nutmeg, allspice and clove seasoning, leaving some perfumed ethanol residue at the chocolate-spiced finish.

“There’s a couple zingers in there as well, like juniper and cardamom” Sheehan claims after explaining his reticence towards making spiced beers. “What I like about it is it’s got a decent amount of hops in it, but the spice blend is evenly displayed. I detect the cardamom kernels and the ginger root I smashed up and put in there alongside ground ginger helps frame it. I brought it out before Thanksgiving.”

Sheehan goes on to say J.J. Bitting’s been doing the Winter Warmer every year, modeling his after past batches but putting his own special twist on the seasonal suds.

“As far as the malt base, it’s similar to the ones used in the past. The spices are similar, but may be more pronounced,” he concludes.

Due to over-eating at Artisan’s Restauranrt & Brewery, I missed out on JJ Bitting’s 15th annual anniversary party, March 10, 2012, where cable television’s Cake Boss, Buddy Valastro, brought a multi-tiered cake for everyone to enjoy at this established red-bricked Woodbridge landmark (the second oldest Jersey brewpub behind Milford’s Ship Inn). However, on Monday I’d get a chance to sample Bitting’s latest excellent fare.

As I enter the spacious brewpub-restaurant, owner Mike Cerami and head brewer Chris Sheehan are, just by chance, there to welcome me. I apologize to Chris for missing the Saturday shindig, but he’s probably too stoked about the latest Big Beers on hand to care.

First, he offers the busy Anniversary Abbey Ale, a splendidly honeyed Bastone yeast-draped full body bringing plum-sugared fig spicing to candi-sugared biscuit malts, cedar-etched Hallertau hops and briny white-peppered citrus. Its lemony orange tartness finds space amidst Cabernet, Sauvignon and tannic green grape nuances.

Next, Vintage Cherry Stout takes sensory control. While Chris maintains “it’s all about the cocoa” and tastes like “flour-less chocolate cake,” I propose a sweet Maraschino cherry nosing, whiskey-backed cherry cordial mouthfeel, brandied cherry kirsch salience and sour oaken cherry tartness rising above roasted mocha malts as well as dried fruiting (white apricot, prune, grape).

It’d be hard to top that. But bold 15th Anniversary celebrator, Barley Legal Barleywine, would certainly try. Its laid-back pear juicing, syrupy peach viscosity, red apple graze, tangerine tang and vanilla wafer subtlety received a persistent dry-hopped alcohol burn.

On cask, the understated IPA soothed the savage beast with a delicately softer manifestation of the highly praised India Pale Ale style. Easygoing red, yellow and orange fruiting edged into red licorice notes while mild floral herbs trickled through.

On August 2012 one-hour stopover following Sandy Hook beach picnic, quaffed another fine Chris Sheehan elixir. Prodigious Onyxxx Stout brought embittered hop-charred coffee roast to creamy dark chocolate center, where vanilla bean, molasses, cocoa and anise richness deepened its ancillary hazelnut-cola influence.

www.njbrewpubs.com

TRIUMPH BREWING – NEW HOPE

United States Brewpubs

NEW HOPE, PENNSYLVANIA

In a red brick marketplace complex alongside vintage coal-run railroad cars, New Hope’s TRIUMPH BREWING (whose original brewpub centers nearby Princeton) offered light American cuisine to go with seven fine easy-appealing beers and ales, December ’05. The high-ceilinged bi-leveled pub had a railroad-sidled patio and a small stage for acoustic music near the back seating area.

Cascade-hopped fig-tongued rye-finishing Amber Ale, earthy vegetal-fronted, white peach-sweet, brown pear-skinned, persimmon-soothed Double Amber, evergreen-fresh red-fruited seasonal Winter Wonder, perfume-dried apple-peach-grape-toned Bengal Gold India Pale Ale, and rain-watered coffee-roasted Irish Dry Stout mostly alleviate medium-bodied appetites.

Light yellow-fruited clean-watered phenol-smudged Lager and elegant wildflower-honeyed straw-hay-induced soft-hopped Honey Wheat suit tender thirsts.

At Jersey’s quaint Trap Rock Brewery in February ’09, had partial growler of Triumph Jewish Rye, a perfect liquid rye bread re-creation with caraway-seeded licorice-spiced pumpernickel breading, and one pint of dry hop-roasted coffee-beaned espresso-tinged cocoa-powdered Triumph Coffee N Cream Stout.

www.triumphbrew.com

BRU RM@BAR

United States Brewpubs

NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT

Home to Ivy League University, Yale, New Haven’s rustic brick-laid pizza joint-nightclub BruRm@ Bar is centrally located in downtown New Haven just off Route 95. Initially visited September ’04, brew tanks spread across the rustic ground level and mezzanine. Split dining-bar area (with pool table) and upstairs seating provide snug college or family-styled atmosphere and an unfinished backroom serves as a tertiary party area.

Caramel-sugared, malt-spiced, red-fruited AmBar Ale appeases the widest variety of drinkers. Soft cereal-grained, biscuit-nuttered, mash tun-wafted, dry-bodied Toasted Blonde suits milder thirsts. Leafy, gourd-spiced, marzen-styled OktoBarfest and coffee-roasted, dry-pruned, cherry-soured Damn Good Stout were also welcome choices. My favorite quickly became sharply citric-hopped, spruce-induced, earthen-pined Pale Ale.

REAL ALE FESTIVAL – 2007

Revisited BruRm, January ’07, for REAL ALE FESTIVAL, hosted by brewer Jeff Browning and Connecticut beer-distributing brother-in-law Rob Neuner. The concept, serving cask conditioned ‘real ales’ manually pulled from cellar tanks with a hand pump, is to omit the extraneous gas common tapped beer emit. This traditional cask conditioned brewing method utilizes natural carbonation at a warmer temperature (serving 55 degrees) for non-filtered unpasteurized ales containing live yeast. Secondary fermentation thereupon brings forth gentle CO2 carbonation expressing a richer flavor with more character than standard ‘brewery conditioned’ ales.

Quaffed dry lemony grapefruit, grassy-hopped, black tea-like, raw-honeyed, herbal-spiced Rock Art Magnumus ete Tomahawkus Strong Red prior to herbaceous yellow-fruited peppery-hopped Southampton Yorkshire Pub Ale and fiercely espresso-embittered walnut-dried coffee-grounded Southampton Espressso Stout.

Nearly as great as the latter was bitterly Mexican coffee-roasted chicory-bound molasses-thick Dogfish Head Chicory Super Human Strength Espresso Stout.

Next up, tried sour yellow-fruited fig-raisin-scampered rye-vexed Trout River Mahogany Mild and herbal raw-honeyed orange-yellow-fruited grassy-hopped Trout River Pale Ale.

Alongside two pizza slices, swigged brown-sugared chocolate-malted fig-date-dried apple-grape-soured hop-grained Otter Creek Otter Kilter Wee Heavy Ale and fabulous orange-tangy grapefruit-spiced rye-malted woody-hopped dry body Willimantic Rail Mail Rye.

Loved oak-barreled City Steam offerings: piney hop-dried grapefruit-peach-apricot-calmed Innocence Pale Ale and fig-prune-dehydrated cocoa-dried olfactory-moistened Dominator Double Bock.

Similarly, oaken-aged vanilla-honeyed yellow-fruited dry-malted Opa-Opa Winter Strong Ale kept patrons happily content.

Then, homebrew store Zok’s brought forth lively yellow-fruited herbal-spiced honey-teased Saison D’Willimantic.

Poured a few Thomas Hooker brews thereafter, including molasses-thick cocoa-chocolate-toffee-sweetened, raisin-fig-plum-dried, vinous sherry-bourbon-cadenced Old Marley Barleywine and earthen peat-smoked, mulch-brine-guarded, malt-sugared, herbal-tinged Munich-Styled Golden Lager.

As dusk settled, quaffed pine-resinous fig-dried citric-depleted nutty-fluttered Martha’s Exchange Mc Gann’s London IPA, brown-sugared molasses-sweet walnut-roasted fig-soured chicory-finishing Martha’s (Exchange) Peculiar Brown (inspired by England’s Theakston Old Peculier), and spruce-hopped malt-spiced red-fruited Gardner Ale House Facelift IPA.

 BruRm’s mildewed fig-date-soured malt-chocolate-y Ten Penny Reserve and mash tun-scented corn malt-savored citric-dabbed Dry-Hopped Bar Blonde were fine pre-dinner choices.

FURTHER REVISITS

June ’09, stopped in BruRm once more for lunchtime red pie pizza with mozzarella and Hobbomock Red Ale, a caramel-toasted apple-ripe peach-glazed tea-like fungi-tinged English mild ale.

Nearly two years hence, sojourned back to New Haven with wife and daughter on the way back from Bristol, Rhode Island. It was pouring rain this Tuesday in June as we consumed a large white pizza with spinach and two excellent beers (one previously perused and one newly tried.) We sat at the right corner front table as the place filled up with dinnertime locals.

I’d already enjoyed Browning’s Damn Good Stout, but this time its chocolate-milked cocoa chalking seemed more emphatic than the distant dried fruiting, chewier maple-molasses malting, and deepened peanut-shelled walnut-hazelnut expanse.

Excellent new discovery, Hitting 74 Double IPA brought elegant cologne-tongued, pine-combed, spruce-tipped bittering to frantic floral fruited frenzy and chewy caramel malting, plying tangy apple-reddened pink grapefruit, pineapple, apricot, mango, kiwi, and passion fruit tropicalia to prolonged alcohol burn.

www.barnightclub.com

* Also directly off Route 95 to the North a half-hour away at preserved historic seaport town, Mystic (which gained recognition through Mystic Pizza movie), found Blue Fin Stout and three New England brews (Elm City Lager/ Gold Stock Ale/ Atlantic Amber) listed in Beer Index at seafood restaurant, August ‘01.

BLACKSTONE RESTAURANT & BREWERY

United States Brewpubs

Blackstone searches for new partner to run West End restaurant - Nashville Business Journal

NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Near Route 40 on Broadway, freestanding red-bricked BLACKSTONE RESTAURANT & BREWERY (opened New Year’s Eve ’93), had an estate-like feel, with its brick archway-fronted private library, exquisite dining area, and tile-floored open space surrounding wood-furnished front bar (visited August ’08). Extensive beer bottle collection adorned shelving across interior walls and menu included wood-fired pizza, sandwiches, burgers, and salads.

Side entrance brew tanks served soft apricot-tangerine-grapefruit-centered maize-dried Summer Ale, fizzy hop-spiced banana-brightened clove-coriander-teased Hefeweizen, and berry-tart citric-sweetened mild-grained Kolsch-styled Chaser Pale Ale.

Peat-smoked hazelnut-honeyed peanut-shelled Nut Brown Ale, woody-hopped dark-spiced apricot-grapefruit-draped Red Springs Ale, and subtle brown chocolate-y hazelnut-snipped St. Charles Porter were arguably better.

www.blackstonebrewery.com

BIG RIVER GRILLE – NASHVILLE

United States Brewpubs

Big River Grille & Brewing Works | Nashville, TN | Beers | BeerAdvocate
NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Downtown across from Hard Rock Café and within walking distance to the Tennessee Titans football stadium, BIG RIVER GRILLE opened around ’93 (and visited August ’08). A red neon sign and brown-tan awning lead patrons into spacious red brick-walled sportsbar. Redwood furnished dining areas surround central bar (with two widescreen TV’s and glass-enclosed brew tanks).

Light Americana food goes well with low hop-profiled beers such as tangy apple-peach-fronted, mildly orange peel-embittered, phenol-hopped 16th Avenue Pilsner, yellow-fruited honey-malted corn-sweetened maize-dried Southern Flyer Light Lager, and honey-fruited spice-hopped corn-buttered Nashville Steamer Golden Ale.

Mild orange-bruised tangerine tartness picked up soft hop astringency vaporizing vanilla-cocoa sweetness of Summer Wheat.

Fine medium-bodied alternatives came next. Dry Cascade-hopped, orange-peach-pear-quince-sequenced Thick Brick Red Ale revealed deep wood tones. Caramel-chocolate-malted honey-roasted peanut-finishing Sweet Magnolia American Brown Ale gained floral-hopped nicety. Chocolate-sweet hop-roasted vanilla-extracted cappuccino-milked Iron Horse Stout made fine dessert treat.

www.bigrivergrille.com

BOSCOS

United States Brewpubs

NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Central Tennessee’s countrypolitan capital, Nashville, is home to Vanderbilt University (near the historic revitalized Hillsboro Village), Music Row (where Elvis Presley, Roy Orbison, and the Everly Brothers recorded), an exact replica of Greece’s Partheneon, and three fine brewpubs, visited August ‘08.

My wife and I were impressed by BOSCOS (with other locations in Franklin, Memphis, and Little Rock, Arkansas), one of the state’s first brewpubs.

In a red brick building with yellow-white awning, tan-terracotta checkerboard squares, high blue-tiled ceiling (with exposed pipes), and smallish bar (surrounded by dining space), Boscos not only offered worthy rear-tanked beers, but also terrific food (such as wood-fired pizza, pan-seared tuna salad, and artichoke-enhanced calzones).

Stalwart German-styled wood-fired granite-stoned ‘steinbier,’ Boscos Famous Flaming Stone Lager, a sourly yellow-fruited, stone wheat-centered, caramel-glazed, dry-hopped pale ale, retained subtle peculiarities any adventurous beer lover should experience.

Other respresentative Euro-designed libations included dry rye-fig-soured caramel-chocolate-coated Germantown Alt, engaging Pabst Blue Ribbon knockoff BBR (using ‘cheapest ingredients’ for glutinous soft-hopped syrupy corn-malted session beer), and barley-roasted Scotch-like cocoa-leafed fig-date-dried Isle Of Skye Scottish Ale.

Honey-dripped orange-peeled lemon-soured Boscos Bombay IPA may’ve lacked apropos Asian sway, but moderate-bodied vanilla-chocolate-sweetened cappuccino-milked hop-roasted Export Stout bettered some British Isle rivals.

Bitter orange-grapefruit-peeled dry-hopped Boscos XXX Pale Ale suffered from oxidized malfeasance while lightly citric mildly grained Boscos American Style Wheat got soapy.

www.boscosbeer.com