Aromatic caramel-butterscotch frontage, buttery almondine-brandy-sherry whir, and subtle mocha-molasses continuance perk up hop-roasted brown chocolate finish. More distinguished ’09 version upped brown chocolate, sugared fig, raisin puree, stewed prune, sweet whiskey, and hazelnut illusions glancing chocolate liqueur warmth.
Modest light-bodied dry lager with too much acidic citrus bitterness and not enough counteractive sweet red and orange-fruited luster. Grapefruit peel bittering and mild juniper hop astringency ransack white grape tartness and peach-apple tang to weak white-breaded spine.
Stunningly impressive lactic stout mashes Southern Tier’s ‘heavyweight’ Jah-va and Choklat stouts for one totally awesome chocolate lover’s hybrid. An absolutely superb dessert beer combining Jamaican roasted coffee with bittersweet Belgian chocolate, this perfect 11% alcohol libation rewards sweet-toothed minions lusting after creamy Nestles dark chocolate, chocolate mousse, Black Forest cake, and fudge brownies. Vanilla-frosted crème brulee richness boosts chewy chocolate chip cookie, chocolate pudding, and molasses-soaked Sugar Daddy illusions.
MAUI, HAWAII
I originally went to Maui to body surf ocean waves and hang out drinking brews in the rainforest along exquisite Road To Hanna, June ‘99. When I got there, I ate a burger, drank a Michelob, and watched the great Michael Jordan win his last basketball championship with the Chicago Bulls.
Before I left a week later, the only new brew I found was Macadamia Nut Brown Ale. But I wasn’t exactly complaining after seeing some bright Maui sunrises while sipping frozen Pina Colatas. Though I wasn’t aware of its existence at the time, local residents recommend MAUI BREWING COMPANY at the Kahana Gateway Center north of beautiful Kaanapali Beach.
MANHATTAN, NEW YORK
Though most of the beers at the five Manhattan-based HEARTLAND brewpubs get brewed in a separate Brooklyn facility, each pub has its own definitive specificity and atmosphere. I have frequented these variegated local watering holes on many occasions, usually on the way to softball games in Central Park with High Times.
In June ’06, made trek to South Street Seaport in lower Manhattan to quaff a few seasonal brews at HEARTLAND (opened around 2003). Located in a brick corner building directly across from the seaport, this diminutive Heartland pub (the third of five now operating) featured a street side front deck and interior dining section to left of small centralized bar with mahogany mantle stocking liquor bottles.
Nifty oversized beer labels bedecked paneled walls while barbecue food dominated the menu. Tempting seasonal offerings included sweet nutty Grateful Red Lager, tangy apricot-tangerine-clementine-ripened wheat-dried Summertime Apricot Ale and briskly lemon rind/ grapefruit peel-embittered piney-hopped earthen-fungi dry Czech lager Empire Premium Beer.
Tremendous find: rich creamy Belgian Cherry Chocolate Stout, with its dry chocolate-y cappuccino abundance seeping overripe cherry, raspberry puree, black licorice, and tertiary wood-smoked walnut-hazelnut illusions.
June ’09, tried candi-sugared orange-banana-bruised clove-spiced pepper-hopped Big Belgian Blonde with buddy John Ehrhart.
Revisited Heartland’s South Street Seaport site with wife, November ’09, prior to Jemina Pearl show at Bowery Ballroom. We shared tart raspberry-pomegranate-fronted ginger-sarsaparilla-licorice-backed Berry Champagne Ale and soapy honey-roasted pumpkin-pied clove-cinnamon-nutmeg-spiced Smiling Pumpkin Ale.
For dessert, tried overripe banana-sweetened clove-spiced cherry-bruised Drunken Monkey Harvest Wheat with Banana Liqueur.
March ’07, visited HEARTLAND midtown location on 51st Street to watch first round of NCAA Hoops Tourney. Sat at L-shaped wood bar near side entrance admiring beautiful oak bar, old Americana murals strewn across walls, and brass brew tank surrounded by wood clock, whiskey barrels, and twin lanterns.
Tried two seasonal offerings distinguished by peculiar wood-lacquered mouthfeel. Alpha Male Ale possessed raw-honeyed citric frontage girding dry-hopped ginseng and Peruvian Maca root herbage. Frothy-headed St. Patrick’s Day homage, Kelly’s Irish Red Ale, dangled creamy caramel malts atop nutty dry-hopped spiced rum illusions.
April ’07, took wife to see hysterical Broadway musical comedy, The Drowsy Chaperone, but beforehand had lunch at Empire State Building’s HEARTLAND BREWERY & ROTISSERIE. The most enchanting Heartland brewpub yet, its two-tier setting offered busy ground floor bar and dining space as well as attractive wood-furnished basement-level lodge with central bar and wraparound seating down spiral staircase (corkscrewing white grain silo featuring lady liberty).
Rear brew tanks may’ve held seasonal offerings such as doubly dry-hopped pine needle-y black peppered orange-grapefruit peeled Indie 500 Pale Ale. Raspberry Blonde with Chamborde Liqueur was absolutely delicious, placing toot-sweet cream-corned raspberry essence above sugared wafer depth and blueberry-cranberry tartness.
Best bet: exquisite Full Moon Barleywine, with its buttery cognac-like bruised cherry-banana sweetness, papaya-mango-pineapple tang, and mint-y herbage opposing fierce bourbon alcohol burn and lusty orange peel bittering.
Finally perused HEARTLAND BREWERY’S original red-bricked tavern-styled Union Square hotspot, June ’09. Opened around 1993, 19th century-styled murals, old wood furnishings, and ancient pony kegs enhance the long right side bar across tucked-in left side dining and small loft area fronting glass-enclosed brew tanks. Along the walls are many ancient brewery’s large-framed logos, including Fink’s Derby Cream Ale, Stanton Giant Pale Ale, Mule Head Ale, Old Diamond Kaier’s Ale, Gretz Porter, and Tally Ho Porter.
Recently, Heartland updated its recipes so I re-tried all six house brews before settling on Full Moon Barleywine, a banana liqueur-ish cherry-pureed pineapple-honeydew-cantaloupe-sweetened toffee-malted clove-spiced elixir.
Though corn-flaked grain-parched perfume-hopped grapefruit-embittered astringency Cornhusker Lager and dry lemon-wedged citric-honeyed currant-addled white-breaded meanderer Harvest Wheat Beer were below expectations, caramelized rye-dried fig-date-sugarplum-spiced Red Rooster Ale and orange-oiled hop-spiced grapefruit-soured peach-pear-apricot-ripened Indiana Pale Ale sufficed.
Creamy espresso-fronted vanilla-sweetened oats-toasted black coffee-embittered Farmer Jon’s Oatmeal Stout retained a soothing softness that’ll win over dark beer fans.
Revisited Union Square site August ’10 to try salmon dish with seasonal French Toast, a crisp light-bodied lemon-wedged Saison with clover-honeyed salty-bottomed citric bittering and floral lavender-jasmine tinge.
In town for October ’09 autumnfest, visited Times Square-stationed HEARTLAND BREWERY & CHOPHOUSE, quaffing one pumpkin-spiced seasonal and one blended autumnal ale. Perhaps the most family-oriented of the popular Manhattan chain, its red brick-walled interior has an intimate feel and three private back sections, including the Tap Room (with full bar service), Stout Room and Harvest Room.
Sharp-hopped cinnamon-spiced pumpkin pie-crusted Smiling Pumpkin Ale retained creamy caramel-malted nutmeg-ginger-allspice accents and moderate citric rind bitterness.
Outstanding full-bodied Smiling Pumpkin/Farmer Jon’s Oatmeal Stout blend, Stumpkin, embellished hop-charred chocolate-vanilla frontage with heavy licorice-anise illusions and bittersweet gourd-curried fig-prune density.
Two doors down from Heartland’s 43rd Street Times Square location lies affiliated HB BURGER, opened February ’09. Its black-white tile floor, cozy left-side booths, wood-furnished bar, and wrought-iron chandeliers were reminiscent of an old-fashioned ice cream parlor.
MANHATTAN, NEW YORK
Across from West Side Manhattan’s meat district at Chelsea Pier, high-ceilinged CHELSEA BREWING COMPANY, founded 1996 (but closed by 2017), opened to a half-circled winding wood bar (enclosing massive holding tanks) with spacious upstairs and dockside dining plus far right brass-tanked brewing vessels.
On tap, October ’04, at Hudson Bay marina brewery, tried zesty citric-hopped ashy-pined grapefruit rind-soured Henry Hudson IPA, soft corn-husked floral-perfumed Chelsea Standard Ale and bland dry-spiced perfume-hopped Summer Solstice Wheat with High Times editor Steve Bloom.
Best bet: espresso-deepened maple-cherry sweetened burnt wood-finished Chelsea Oatmeal Stout.
During April Fool’s Day, ’08, hung out with veteran brewer, Chris Sheehan. Quaffed slow sipping brandy-licked candi-sugared bruised orange-banana-cherry-sweetened red apple-ripened pear-melon-infused earthen grape-diffused 1,000 Gyle Imperial Mild (boasting 10.9% alcohol blear) and boozy swoon, Frosty’s Winter Wheat, with its faded cracked wheat spine inaugurating white-peppered orange rind, grapefruit peel, and black currant lucidity.
Chelsea Cherry Wheat’s 8.1% alcohol-burn seeped into red cherry whir, whiskey-soaked swerve, and phenol hop bittering.
In May ’08, soaked up pine needle-y grapefruit-orange-peel embittered peach-apricot-restrained Hop Angel IPA and berry-seized woodruff-wafted enzyme-hopped floral-backed Blackberry Wheat.
Better still was luscious chocolate-malted cocoa-dried cappuccino-milked licorice-stained oats-toasted burnt coffee-finished Chelsea Cream Stout.
November ’08, had Buffalo wings and jalapeno poppers with Chi-town buddy, Doug Van Dell, then consumed rich hop-charred Chelsea Gotham Stout, a tar-like molasses-thick full body with sticky anise overriding chewing tobacco, ashen wood and honeyed maple illusions.
Pre-Christmas ’08, drained a growler of Chelsea Rye’s Up, a rye wheat beer with dry phenol-hopped pumpernickel-cocoa-tobacco notes and wood-lacquered hazelnut-walnut singe.
After interviewing rock band, The Used, with High Times Cultivation Editor, Danny Danko, retreated to Chelsea Brewing, September ’09. Drained summery yellow-fruited, woody hop-prickled, tersely mineral-grained, lightly currant-embittered Chelsea Ultimate Summer Ale.
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Hosted by Chelsea Brewing Company during March 28-30, 2008, Manhattan’s 1st Annual Cask Festival was an overwhelming success. By Sunday opening, more than half of the 38 quarter-barreled entries had been consumed in the previous two-day 24-hour flourish of activity.
Having imbibed mass cask conditioned ales at New Haven’s BruRm@ Bar in ‘07 (whose brewer, Jeff Browning, roamed ‘round sampling ales at Chelsea’s Saturday afternoon session), I had high expectations. Incipiently sampled BruRm’s ‘Charlie Mopps’ IPA, a slender-bodied English Bitter hybrid with resinous hop oils affecting vegetal leafy-topsoil sequence, wood-lacquered red-fruited tangents, and dinky herbaceous lurk.
Analogously, Saturday’s session continued with Cascade hop-spiced wood-singed Scotch-licked fig-date-dipped Kelso Hop Lager (from nearby Greenpoint). Similar moderate-bodied fare included Sixpoint Apollo Pale Wheat, a bark-twig-etched lemon-soured orange-bruised bitter with dry plantain reminder coiling white-peppered stint as well as Kelso Nut Brown Ale, an offbeat tea-like chocolate-seeded orange-burnt bitter with recessive peanut shell, walnut, and almond tinge.
Ate delicious Cobb Salad mid-Saturday alongside muddled clarify-buttered black tea-embittered pumpernickel-bread crumbed chocolate-covered date-sated Brooklyn Blast! Double IPA as well as dry fig-soured wood-stained whiskey-binged nut-skinned The Livery Hoppy Chick IPA – one of three Michigan offerings.
Also emulating from the Wolverine State were funky orange-molded apricot-sweet cherry-tart Jolly Pumpkin E.S.Bam and sticky licorice-laced coffee-roasted black chocolate-y shoe-polished Dark Horse Reserve Special Black Bier.
Other worthy Midwest revelations included Indiana-based Three Floyd’s Brian Boru Irish Red Ale, with its perfume-hopped red-fruited tea-like bark-parched fig-dried tartness, and Illinois-based Two Brothers’ Hop Juice Double IPA, a piney-fronted bruised orange-centered apple-peach-sweetened whiskey-malted triumph.
Wisconsin’s outrageously fine Sprecher Bourbon-Barrel Scotch Ale sported peat-smoked bourbon-burgundy-brandy frontage and vanilla-sweet cinnamon-cardamom-spiced cherry-plum-prune illusions.
During Sunday lunch, consumed a trio of host brewer Chelsea’s offerings. Firstly, Chelsea Nut Brown Ale had a tealeaf-y peanut-shelled walnut sear, spoiled orange-souring and latent cocoa bean bittering.
Better were Chelsea Black Hole XXX Stout, with its dark-spiced brown chocolate theme, piney hop-charred dry coffee bean bittering and buttery anise flow, and the wholly superb Chelsea ‘The Tsar’s Revenge’ Imperial Stout, a robust hop-toasted coffee-grounded molasses-draped cherry-dried grain-smoked mahogany-moistened enlightenment.
Representing Pennsylvania, Weyerbacher Hop Infusion Amber Ale caressed tangy apple-peach-pineapple ripeness with bitter floral-hopped orange-grapefruit peeling and ashy cinder. Sly Fox Seamus Red Ale retained an unsweetened ice tea-like gird for mushroom-y fig-gourd-quince acridity. I regrettably missed out on Harrisburg-based Troegs offerings, Nugget Nectar and HopBack Amber (both quite excellent in bottled version).
Upstate New York upstart Butternuts made an impressive showing with both Snapperhead Dry-Hopped IPA, a piney oak-veneered nectar boasting bright apple-apricot-grapefruit tartness over grassy bottom. And oily soy-milked brown chocolate-y Moo Thunder Milk Stout.
Also fairly new, Pleasantville’s Captain Lawrence Smoke From the Oak, a dazzling oak-aged smoked porter elevated bourbon boozing above vanilla-chocolate creaminess, vinous plum-port, earthen red grape, and charred hickory.
Northernmost Empire State brewer, Buffalo’s Flying Bison, crafted Warbird IPA, a phenol spice-hopped red-fruited nutty-bottomed goodie.
Making for a superfine digestif, New England Wet Willy Scottish Wee Heavy doused brandied barleywine summit with brown-sugared vanilla-butterscotch illusions and bruised banana blip. Though Otter Creek Wolaver’s All-American Ale kicked before I could get my grubby paws on it, the admirable Vermont brewery’s Otter Creek Sea Otter Baltic Porter proved to be an exceptional dessert beer, bringing lactic milk chocolate-y richness to toffee-sweetened black cherry-soured center and oily coffee bottom.
Upon leaving, 5 PM, Sunday, Chelsea Cask Ale impresario Ron Carlson and Brew News publisher Bill Metzger (who’d admirably driven hundreds of miles obtaining many of these cask conditioned ales) seemed extremely pleased.
Since Chelsea Brewing’s first cask fest was so wildly popular, owner Pat Greene decided Manhattan’s 2nd Cask Festival should run merely six months hence during September 19-21, 2008.
Before sampling the latest firkin-styled brews, I stumbled across Chelsea Obergariges Festbier, a robust, yet easygoing, top-fermented Oktoberfest with dark-spiced lemon-squeezed grapefruit frontage, toasted French bread backdrop, and friendly date-fig reminder.
Got to Fest ‘round noon to beat heavy traffic at bar and met fellow brew buff, Frank Colella, an estate planner whose ‘rundangerously’ blogspot salutes ultra marathon running, the Grateful Dead, and craft beers.
Quaffed Sixpoint Belgian Rye (with Chocolate Nibs) and Sixpoint Sweet Re-Action Pale Ale with Colella. The former had a serene honey-spiced chocolate malting, peat-y rye caress, and green tea bittering overlaying rock-candied sugar beets. The latter, a Belgian-American Pale Ale hybrid, countered soft lemony orange peel-currant bitterness with floral-herbal nuances.
Next up, Pizzeria Uno Gust ‘N Gale Porter bolstered burnt sugared brown chocolate with cocoa-soured iced coffee sedation, leaving vegetal dry fig reminder. In comparison, Pittsfield Gerry Dog Oatmeal Stout lacked expectant coffee-chocolate sustenance, going for a grain-roasted nutty mocha theme lightened by black cherry-soured dry-fruited balm.
Two major highlights of my first day sampling came next. Firstly, Milly’s Tavern Tennessee T.N.T. Barleywine brought brown sugared chocolate liqueur surge to syrupy Jack Daniels whiskey sweetness as emergent bourbon-sherry boozing rose above tertiary vanilla, toffee, raisin, and dried fig illusions.
Secondly, Brooklyn Black Ops Stout merged bourbon-burgundy anodyne with wood-charred black cherry, oaken vanilla, and licorice notes.
Hooked up with Seattle Merchant du Vin rep (and ex-Uber Tavern agent) Rick Carpenter thereafter. We consumed only international offering, Harviestoun Ice Maiden Golden Ale (from Scotland) initially, but its grassy-hopped wood-tinged orange-grapefruit-currant flicker got soapy.
Slightly better were grout-y citric-fronted herb-backed Cascade-hopped Southampton Fresh Hop ESB, resinous black chocolate-centered wood-stained veggie-stewed Fuggle-hopped The Livery Herb Superb Black IPA and floral-dusted orange-fruited nut-bottomed Harvest Moon Elmes’ Mild Manor.
Watched Giants-Bengals football game during Sunday tasting session. First up, Big Rock Double Trouble Sour Belgian may’ve gotten flat, as its cider-y funk, dried fig-date gunk, and unripe green grape tartness seemed diminished.
Better were biscuit-y wood-lacquered red-orange-fruited peanut-shelled Chelsea Pro Am Long Island Altbier and earthen lemon-spiced grapefruit rind-embittered Chelsea Catskill Hop Harvest.
Defiant Little Thumper Pale Ale offered light-bodied bread-crusted lemony hop spice and Butternut’s ESP (Extra Special Porkslap) had cologne-wafted chamomile tea flutter, sun-dried sour fig respite, and veggie trace. To cap off another fine Manhattan Cask Ale Fest, quaffed zesty hop-oiled fig-soaked apple-apricot-tangerine-fruited Blue Point ESB.
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January ’10, interviewed rapper MC Paul Barman, then drove one mile north to Chelsea for spectral Hoppy Holidaze, a boozy (10.25% alcohol) fruit-spiced seasonal with wheat-honeyed candied apple, red grape, cherry, peach, and pineapple sweetness countering piney grapefruit rind bittering.
Upon Chris Sheehan’s departure to Newark’s Port 44, new brewer Mark Szmaida stepped in.
During one-hour stopby the Tuesday after Labor Day ’13, discovered two more Chelsea brews while eating spinach dip and olive-oiled tomato-topped bruschetta bread. First up, dry-toned Pumpkin Pie Ale offered pumpkin pie-spiced gourd and butternut illusions as well as soft yellow fruiting above pastry-floured cinnamon dusting.
Fruitful Blueberry Wheat lacquered fresh sweet ‘n sour blueberry syrup above its coarsely-hopped white wheat spine, picking up ancillary raspberry-strawberry undertones to deepen its hard candied citric center.
MANHATTAN, NEW YORK
This giant cultural mecca still trails smaller cities for brewpub happenings. Alongside Heartland (whose five regular offerings are reviewed in Beer Index), by 2004, the only other Big Apple brewpubs were Pier 59’s bustling Chelsea Brewing Company (which bottled lemony wheat straw Checker Cab Blonde Ale, Dry Irish Stout, and Sunset Red), upscale Times Square Brewery, and uptown West End Bar. The last two stopped brewing operations by ’07.
On 42nd Street just West of Broadway, luxuriously modern designed TIMES SQUARE BREWERY attracted nearby theatre patrons, white-collar businessmen, and curious tourists alike until closing in 2007. First floor includes right side bar area, wooden chair-table back dining area, and kitchen serving pasta, pizza, burgers, crab cakes, and salmon. Floating stairs lead to mezzanine, brew tanks, and second floor dining area spectacularly overlooking Broadway.
In September ’05, sampled wheat-husked grass-hay-dried grapefruit-tinged Pilsner, lighter-bodied cereal-grained corn-sweetened lemon-tangy Blonde Ale, and phenol red-fruited mango-salted Pale Ale as well as coffee-dried cocoa-chalked grape-date-draped Dunkel.
Best bet: Sugary lemon-candied 9% alcohol Belgian Golden Ale, with its syrupy honey-raw medicinal pungency and bold Duvel-like charisma.
Visited Thanksgiving eve ’05, Columbia University-bound WEST END BREWERY (now defunct) offered outdoor front deck, right side bar with brick divider to left dining area, sequestered backroom section, and private downstairs lounge with brew tanks.
Though brewing operations stopped in ’06, vintage Columbia sports photos line dining space where appetizers, steaks, burgers, plus Italian and Mexican cuisine are served to customers at wooden tables and booths.
Brewer Neill Acer (now running Pearl River’s Defiant Brewery), renowned for food-drink pairing, volunteered corn-wheat-based West End Golden Lager, with its buttered popcorn waft and syrupy malt vault, plus terrific cinnamon-nutmeg-fronted orange rind-slithered West End Christmas Ale.
Treasured 2nd Street dive, d.b.a., was a dingy hangout with yellowish exposed ductwork, busy right side bar, and rustic backyard beer garden.
Visited April ’06, with former music editor (and pal) Chris Uhl, quaffing cask-conditioned Sixpoint Bengali Tiger and Victory Moonglow Weizenbock. Dazzling liquor selection included a dozen bourbons, twenty single malt Scotches, twenty vodkas, ten gins, and fifteen rums.
Brought Anaheim band, the Willowz, to d.b.a. April ’07, quaffing Sly Fox Panacea Barleywine, Greenpoint’s Kelso Chocolate Lager, and Belgium’s Kira Witbier while my West Coast buds discovered luxurious Samuel Smith Taddy Porter and Imperial Stout.
Afterwards, stopped at nearby basement grocery, Dual Specialty Store, which had a selection of 500 beers, and bought Australia’s Bluetongue Traditional Pilsner.
During May ’07, quaffed Defiant Vunder Bock, an approachable hand-drawn moderation with subtle bruised cherry frontage, casual fig-date recess, and slight sugar plum nib.
January ’09, tried hand-drawn cask-conditioned Stoudt’s Double IPA, a creamy red-fruited sweet-spiced alcohol-burnt cognac-soothed stunner with candied apricot, apple, cherry, and grape illusions.
Visited pint-size East Village beer joint, Against The Grain, January ’07, for exquisite food-ale pairing hosted by Brooklyn-brewed Sixpoint Craft Ales. Thirty discriminating patrons squeezed into brick-walled wood-tabled bar to sample Sixpoint’s piney grapefruit-embittered Sweet Action Cream Ale alongside beet salad with goat cheese/ pumpkin seeds; creamy cappuccino-like paragon Otis Oatmeal Stout alongside oysters with cucumber habanero mignonette; rye-plied Righteous Rye Ale alongside sausage-sauerkraut; and plum-sugared cherry-banana-bruised dessert Encore Dubbel alongside Les Freres cheese atop country bread. Awesome. All ale selections fully reviewed in Beer Index.
Finally got to visit midtown Manhattan craft beer haven, The Ginger Man, September ’08. Featuring 66 tap and 160 bottled beers, this exquisite wood-furnished bar had light menu (sandwiches-salads-desserts) to go with libations such as Ommegang Rouge, Blue Point Sour Cherry Imperial Stout, and three seasonals, including Smuttynose Pumpkin, Cape Ann Fisherman’s Pumpkin, and Elysian Night Owl Pumpkin (all reviewed in Beer Index).
One week after stopover at Ginger Man, went to nearby East Side pub, David Copperfield’s House Of Beer, originally opened ‘round 1996. A beautiful mural featuring Copperfield at a small table with a frothy pint adorns the 74th Street brick frontage of this small York Avenue space. Several red wood tables oppose left bar with several beer insignias, trays, and bottles lining walls. Alongside burger-sandwich menu were choice single malt Scotches and of course, select microbrews on tap or bottled, including Stone Arrogant Bastard, Ipswich Stout, and several Dogfish Head brews. Downed Four + Punk’n Ale with bowl of French onion soup.
Quickly, David Copperfield’s proved most essential in finding the best tapped beer in Manhattan, visited dozens of times for an endless beer-ale variety. Case in point, June 2010’s month long IPA fest, where I discovered excellent Nebraska Hop God, Brooklyn Blast!, Founders Devil Dancer Triple IPA, Lagunitas New Dog Town Pale Ale, Ballast Point Sculpin IPA, and Oskar Blues Gubna Imperial IPA, plus middling Two Brothers Resistance Oak-aged IPA. All these beers are listed with reviews on Beer Index.
WINCHESTER, VIRGINIA
Note: Picadilly’s stopped brewing on site circa 2013.
Civil War-ravaged Winchester switched hands between the Confederacy and the Union several times in the 1860’s. In the rolling hills of this rustic Shenandoah Valley town lies the clay-hued brick warehouse grocery that now houses PICADILLY’S PUBLIC HOUSE, visited July ’09.
Brewing since 2007, this family friendly joint had a prominent central bar (with two TV’s and multiple silver pewter mugs), ample side dining, a back patio, and modest brew tanks. I had delicious salmon BLT with five mediocre house brews.
A sweet honey theme ran through creamy floral-spiced lemon-orange-grapefruit-glazed Hometown Hefeweizen, rich barley-roasted orange-fruited cherry-daubed Patsy’s Pilsner and hop-charred hazelnut-roasted 1752 Stout.
Indistinct pilsner-stout blend, Apple Valley Red Ale needed deeper sugared fig and stewed prune penetration. Fredericktown Brown suffered from lackluster red fruiting, barren nuttiness, and oxidized vegetal waft.
HARRISONBURG, VIRGINIA
Hidden away in Virginia’s vast westerly Shenandoah Valley, the rustic town of Harrisonburg is home to CALLY’S RESTAURANT & BREWERY (formerly Calhoun’s), visited July ’09 (now closed). In the small downtown district across the courthouse and in the same pristine yellow-bricked building as a fine wine store, Callie’s side entrance leads to a wood bar with glass-enclosed brew tanks.
Light-stained oak furnishings adorn the bar and surrounding dining space where exposed ducts highlight the high ceiling. A side patio and upstairs banquet add depth to the exquisite green awning-fronted brewpub. Upscale American cuisine filled a varied menu.
Mid-afternoon, I quaffed mild popcorn-like honey-grained floral-hopped grapefruit-currant-embittered German Pilsner, orange-yellow-fruited caramel-malted green-hopped Downtown Amber Ale and earthen coffee-burnt hazelnut-walnut-influenced Nut Brown Ale.
Mossy resin-hopped grain-toasted grapefruit-soured pineapple-sweetened Smokin’ Scottish Ale and IPA-like Switzer Pale Ale, with its wood-dried floral-hopped apple-apricot-tangerine tang and grapefruit rind/ orange peel bittering, proved to be better choices.
WILMINGTON / WRIGHTSVILLE BEACH, NORTH CAROLINA
Reopened 2006 in Wilmington’s historic downtown, FRONT STREET BREWING now saddles ex-Capitol City and Thoroughbreds Grill brewmaster, Kevin Kozak. Rustic tan-cemented two-storied Victorian saloon had tin-embossed white ceiling, wooden tile inlet, exposed pipes, stain-glass divided front dining, mezzanine balcony, and sky-lighted wood mural bar upon July ’08 visit.
Reasonably priced burgers, sandwiches and salads complemented stylistic beer variety. Though corn-dried wheat-strawed hay-leathered lemon-bruised herbal-tinged Lumina Helles Lager, soapy raspberry-fronted wheat-honeyed cranberry-melon-faded River City Raspberry Wheat,and spritzy banana-clove-centered butterscotch-vanilla-infiltrated orange-soured Hefeweizen were a bit washed out, soft-tongued dried-fruited fungi-blunted German Alt and a batch of stronger beers hit the spot.
Boozy pine-lacquered caramel-malted temptress Port City IPA retained dazzling citric zest. Peat-malted whiskey-snatched red-fruited chocolate-smoked fig-dried Dram Tree Scottish Ale truly ruled.
Incredible coffee-roasted molasses-thickened black chocolate-y Russian Imperial Stout retained cognac insistence, roasted nuttiness, and tobacco chew nuance to gooey anise finish.
Sour red-orange-fruited fig-date-teased hop-blanched Belgian Red and lemony apricot-fizzed maize-dried Kolsch suited summer solstice.
During July ’09 revisit, I found three more Front Street ales flowing from the front-windowed silver brew tanks on a rainy Tuesday afternoon. Interestingly, the mild hickory-smoked Milds Davis Stout retained the same penetrating hazelnut coffee theme and hop-roasted cocoa thrust as the even better oats-charred chicory-pinched American Brown Ale.
Grapefruit rind-embittered lemon pith-soured American Pale Ale maintained light caramel malting.
In a tiny sea green store tucked away off the causeway east of Wilmington, Wrightsville Beach’s Lighthouse Beer & Wine had a superb microbrew selection. Found Terrapin’s Side Project Roggenrauch, Rye Squared Imperial Pale Ale, and Golden Ale; Azalea Coast’s IPA and Fokker Ale; Pyramid Imperial Hefeweizen; Duck-Rabbit Amber; Highland Imperial Kashmir IPA; and French Broad Wee Heavy-er Scotch Ale.
FAYETTEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
In the heart of town at the railroad station, Brit-styled brewpub, HUSKE HARDWARE HOUSE, occupies a historic Victorian building formerly used as a jewelry outlet and furniture store (visited July ’09 and closed ’24).
Four miles south of Mash House Brewery, this spacious restaurant-brewery had red brick-walled interior, aluminum-covered side deck, right side bar (with several dining booths), large loft area, and rear brew tanks.
I ate jambalaya while quaffing light-bodied fare such as cardboard-y raw-grained lemon-rotted pilsner-malted Kolsch-styled vegetal astringency Level-Headed German Blonde, glutinous cereal-grained wheat-cracked citrus-honeyed softie Farmhouse French Blonde Ale, muted caramel-malted fig-dried perfume-hopped slacker Rusty Nail Pale Ale,and diacetyl red-fruited hop-toasted bark-dried nut-bottomed warbler Kill A Man Irish Red Ale.
Better were banana-bruised apple-apricot-pear-bound lemongrass-ginger-coriander-speckled witbier-like Consecration Grand Cru and coffee-beaned espresso-embittered cappuccino-milked oat-flaked barley-roasted Sledgehammer Stout (with its serene black chocolate-y finish).
FAYETTEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
Tucked away on the eastern slope of the Piedmont Mountains, Fayetteville is a culturally diverse small town bolstered by Fort Bragg’s military base. Visited on the way to Sunset Beach, July ’09, there were two brewpubs situated within Fayetteville’s rural confines.
First and foremost, MASH HOUSE BREWERY & CHOPHOUSE had a burgundy and gold sign welcoming customers to its mall-sidled freestanding red brick building (with tan soffit, green roof, painted grain silo, and aluminum-roofed side patio). Exposed steel beams, cement columns, and canopied windows bedecked the wood-furnished interior, where the left side bar had cornered TV’s and the right dining area fronted an open kitchen.
I ate dinner with family in small glass-enclosed area betwixt bar and dinner space. Brewer Zach Hart, who began the local Blues & Brews Festival a few years back, crafted a wide variety of libations in the brass brew kettles behind the bar.
White-breaded sourdough-breaded pepper-spiced lemony grapefruit light-body Natural Blonde, bubble-gummy banana-clove-fronted coriander-teased white-peppered moderate-body Hefeweizen and red-orange-fruited hop-toasted malt-sweetened medium-body Ravishing Irish Red went well with Greek and 4-meat pizzas.
Afterwards, enjoyed candi-sugared banana-bruised clove-spiced citric-soured Kristalweizen, similarly styled banana-breaded pear-ripened Belgian Dubbel and coffee-burnt raisin-pureed Brown Porter.
Busier fare included woody Cascade-hopped black-peppered oats-charred peach-pear-apricot-fruited grapefruit-juniper-embittered Hoppy Hour IPA, creamy mocha-malted, fuzzy raspberry-pureed, orange blossom-honeyed Raspberry Porter and Jack Daniels whiskey-aged Jack’d Up Stout (a friskier version of black chocolate-y cappuccino-centered licorice-accented barley-roasted Stout).