All posts by John Fortunato
BRICK HOUSE BREWERY

BLACK FOREST BREW HAUS

LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK
Since I’ve been visiting cousins ‘out on the Island’ and riding waves at Robert Moses beach since childhood, this oceanic haven feels like home, securing great memories. Although limited bottled beer selection hampers its idyllic splendor, Shoreline Beverage, Huntington (on Route 110) will impress drinkers with its selection of "over 800 beers."
By February 2007, Shoreline boasted "over 1,200 beers," including a large Belgian section where I found Brasserie Des Geants Saison Voisin, Drie Fonteainen Kriek, Du Bocq Blanches Des Moines, Fantome Brisse-Bon Bons, and Regenboog T’Smisje Kerst. Also picked up four Thomas Hooker and Tractor brews, Legacy Hedonism, Victory Boisterous Hellerbock, and Oskar Blues Gordon IPA.
During February ’07 two-day trip, finally visited three divergent Long Island brewpubs. Celebrating Mardis Gras-styled Fasching Festival (a German carnival flaunting fancy dresses, costume balls, and elaborate floats), Farmingdale’s industrial-sectioned large-theme restaurant-brewery BLACK FOREST BREW HAUS (closed 2021) had fascinating beer assortment to go with Bavarian dishes such as wiener schnitzel, wirtshaus veal, sauerbraten, zwiebelrostbraten (ribeye), rouladen (steak with bacon), and loaded potato pancakes.
Inside the tan cement building with red triangle entry and green awning, the slate-floored pub area had solid oak main bar, decorative porcelain tap towers (at secondary terminal), copper brew vats, and festive mural-backed stage area. Carpeted green-walled wood-chaired back dining space with fireplace plus ample outdoor biergarten added breadth.
Operating since August ’98, head brewer Joe Hayes supplied wide-ranging German-styled winners such as salty hop-fizzed lemon-peeled banana-clove-centered grapefruit rind-backed light body Hefe Weizen, dry Noble-hopped corn-malted citric-soured vegetal-dabbed floral-muted wood-lacquered Black Forest Pilsner and caramel malt-smoked, raw-honeyed, mineral-grained, fig-date-tinged, Marzen-styled Black Forest Amber Lager.
Best bets: sweet ‘n sour banana-bruised, prune-raisin-cherry-pureed, coriander-clove-allspice-seasoned, pecan-walnut-toasted, burgundy-brandy-port-finishing Weizen Bock and alcohol-warmed fig-raisin-grape-dried banana-bruised cocoa-chocolate-heeled cola-walnut-tinged earthen-hopped Scotch Ale.
During quick May ’08 stopover, tried impressive woody-hopped, orange-grapefruit rind-embittered, apricot-apple-sweetened I.P. Hayes IPA and cereal-grained, honey-malted, cornmeal-sorghum-influenced, lemony grapefruit-apricot-fruited Maibock.
My friend, Dennis Flubacher, visited Black Forest, October 2010, buying growler of resplendent Marzen-styled Oktoberfest. Its creamy maple malting intensified leafy gourd-spiced full body, gaining almond-toasted gingerbread-cardamom-cinnamon accents.
On two-hour lunch stint, January, 2011, tried superfine Black Forest Imperial Stout, a popular winter dessert treat that was going like hotcakes this Saturday afternoon with the wife. Its coffee-oiled hop-charred black chocolate roast stayed firm above ashen pine-sapped thickness and fig-dried black cherry variance to caramel-burnt toffee finish.
Before visiting my cousins for a graduation party, August '12, stopped by to try another fine elixir while sharing creamy spinach dips with wife and kids. Lactic cocoa-powdered black chocolate theme sufficed for lightly creamed Black Forest Oatmeal Stout, a rich dessert treat with a caramel-burnt Hershey's chocolate kiss finish when warmed. Tertiary hazelnut-cherry-plum illusions faded through the toasted hop char and dark roasted mocha malting.
Discovered two previously untried Black Forest brews during short April '13 stopover. Totally awesome German rauchbier, Black Forest Smoked Porter, gathered peat-smoked dark chocolate malting, beechwood-kilned stove-burnt coffee bittering and pruned plum dabs, creating a Band-aid-like astringency that fades into an ashen hop char.
Vibrant Black Forest Imperial Pilsner allowed brisk grapefruit-sugared lemon zest as well as tangy tangerine and navel orange juicing to speckle cannabis-oiled salty hop bittering.
PAZZO’S (PIZZA)

TRIPLE 7 BREWPUB

ALTITUDE CHOPHOUSE & BREWERY

LARAMIE, WYOMING
Situated in rural Rocky Mountain plains, Laramie’s home to University of Wyoming. An hour’s drive North from Fort Collins, Colorado, this cowboy town houses mayor-owned ALTITUDE CHOPHOUSE & BREWERY, visited August ’07.
Near downtown railroad station, beige-bricked blue awning-draped brewpub had oak wood-furnished bar (with stumps as seats, TV’s atop liquor shelves, and windowed silver brew tanks to rear), large dining space, high ceilings, and extra side seating.
Enjoyed crab cake sandwich, soup, and salad with corn-sugared cereal-grained lemon-tinged Tumble Wheat, banana-bubblegum-clove-fronted cotton-candied perfume-hopped Solar Weizen, tannic grape-skinned fig-parched coffee-soured musk-wafted Highland Scottish Ale, floral-hopped apple-peach-pear-tweaked grapefruit-embittered oats-honeyed High Plains Pale Ale and hop-charred coffee-oiled chocolate-seeded fig-dried walnut-tinged Bearpaw Brown Ale.
Black coffee/coffee bean-conflux Expedition Porter may’ve outdone creamy coffee-roasted fig-spiced walnut-tinged 7200 Stout.
After lunch, Rosebud Strong Ale concentrated bruised cherry, tangy orange and syrupy peach into alcohol-singed finish.
Calm eucalyptus-heather peculiarities befit floral cherry-orange tang massing Old Venerable Double Wheat. Cologne-y diacetyl-duped tangerine-tangy Altitude Amber Ale went adrift.
BUBE’S BREWERY
LANCASTER BREWING

LANCASTER / MOUNT JOY, PENNSYLVANIA
In the heart of Pennsylvania Dutch Country lies the rural communities of Lancaster and Mount Joy, sojourned December ’05. Incredibly, prior to prohibition, Lancaster County brewed 70% of America’s beers (200,000 barrels). In ’95, Lancaster Malt Brewing opened, then closed, and was purchased by its current owners during 2001.
Enormous multi-tiered red brick grain silo warehouse, LANCASTER BREWING, one of the State’s largest beer bottlers, furnished broad primary bar area with exposed ductwork, patio seating, several copper-tabled dining sections, ground level banquet hall, and a menu including crab, steak, salmon, baby back ribs, and thin crust pizza.
Copper kettles, proudly displayed midsection, served sharp red-fruited hop-frisked wheat-dried bohemian-styled Gold Star Pilsner, dry tea-fronted melon-apple-pear-aided Red Rose Ale soapy fizz-hopped light-grained Litening Lager.
Pleasant chestnut-chocolate-roasted cherry-tipped Winter Warmer and black chocolate-y coffee-vanilla-glazed Lancaster Milk Stout were busier, better choices.
Merely average in its bottled version, Lancaster Strawberry Wheat gains a ripe berry-flavored Blow Pop illusion and sweet honeyed cereal/ Graham Cracker likeness. Check Beer Index for bottled reviews.
THE BREWERY (LAKE TAHOE)

GREAT ADIRONDACK STEAK & SEAFOOD

LAKE PLACID PUB & BREWERY

LAKE PLACID, NEW YORK
Snowy Adirondack Mountains’ Olympic Village featured two formative brewpubs visited December ’04. LAKE PLACID PUB & BREWERY had low-ceiling first floor Irish-style pub with limited dining capacity, pool table, and games. Second floor offered centralized bar with prime beer bottle collection at sky loft, wall-lined college football pennants, nifty bark sampler trays for investigative drinkers, and an outdoor deck. Menu ranged from seafood jambalaya to venison stew.
Simple phenol-hopped soft-fizzed Moose Island Ale, sharply red-fruited perfume-hopped wood-charred Barkeater Amber Ale and superb brown chocolate-y vanilla-beaned caramel-burnt Papi’s Porter quaffed on-site.
Bottled 46er Pale Ale, Frostbite Ale, and Ubu Ale reviewed in Beer Index.
LA JOLLA BREWHOUSE
