All posts by John Fortunato

MILLY’S TAVERN

United States Brewpubs,

MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE

Featuring a full spectrum of ‘hop-noxious’ brews in Manchester’s modern commercial-university district, cavernous lower level pub, MILLY’S TAVERN, resides in a bridge-shaded tall red brick building, visited New Year’s eve ‘05. Located along the riverside, the former Stark Mill Brewery (re-christened Milly’s Tavern in 2002) is a mere fifteen minute drive from Nashua’s friendly brewpub competitor, Martha’s Exchange. Exposed ducts, right and rear dining, and local nighttime entertainment mark this ample half-basement lair.

Brew tanks located behind centered Formica-topped bar served cornucopia of brews. Palest straw-hued hop-tingled lemon-tweaked lo-carb Euro pilsner-styled Fisher Cat Ale, wheat-husked hop-spiced spritzer Amoskeag Harvest Ale, vacuous lemony respite Mount U. Golden Cream Ale and thinly fruit-spiced Tasha’s Red Tail Ale will please lighter tastes.

Better were exquisitely-detailed, brown-sugared, pumpkin pie-like, cinnamon-allspice-glanced Pumpkin Ale, dry piney-hopped citric-embittered alcohol-sharp Manch-Vegas IPA, resinous coffee-dried caramel-burnt black chocolate-y General John Stark Porter, butterscotch-hazelnut-sweetened Brownnoser (Brown Ale) and robust oats-toasted, anise-lingered, black chocolate-reinforced Milly’s Oatmeal Stout.

Revisited Granite State’s centralized Merrimack Valley corridor during snowy January 2010 sojourn. At Milly’s my wife and I enjoyed flatbread pizza, soup, and salad while sitting at open L-shaped bar mid-afternoon trying brewer Ron Gamble’s latest elixirs.

Mugs hanging from ceiling pipe ballast set the stage for two-hour beer blitz starting with mild yellow-fruited green-hopped soft-spiced Fisher Cat Ale and molasses-sapped honey-spiced corn-syrupy lemon-dried Buzzin Bee Honey Wheat. Berliner Weisse-styled Bold Horizons placed mildly spiced lemon-soured apricot-peach tartness next to tangy tangerine-orange undertones.

Peanut, macadamia, and walnut saddled affable black coffee-spiced Castlefield Northern English Brown Ale as well as tart black cherry-fronted dry-malted coffee-burnt Ploughman’s Cherry Porter.

Hop-roasted chocolate-soured prune-dried blood-like Li’l Ivan Foreign Extra Stout was outscored by old standby, Milly’s Oatmeal Stout. Savored Man In The Moon, a dry-peppered Belgian-style Saison working lusty alcohol influence cheap rolex replica into vanilla-malted yellow fruiting and receding banana-clove sweetness, as a digestif.

www.millystavern.com

J.T. WHITNEY’S PUB & BREWERY

United States Brewpubs,

MADISON, WISCONSIN

On Madison outskirts, J.T. WHITNEY’S PUB & BREWERY, established in ’95, proved hit or miss, July ‘05, and closed down ’09. Located in a mall, the freestanding wood-shingled sports bar featured a centralized bar with tables and booths spread to the side with far left brew tanks near big screen TV. A decent beer bottle collection near left side fireplace was worth noting. Burgers, salads, and appetizers fill out the menu.

Incredible Mad Badger Barleywine, an absolutely delicious dessert beer, spread maraschino cherry and bruised orange across syrupy liqueur flow to sweet Cognac finish.

Sharp red-fruited Bass Ale alternative India Pale Ale and dry-bodied toffee-ensconced chestnut-almond-hinted Black Diamond Porter also scored points.

Serviceable fare included blah lemony butterscotch-candied Crystal Weizen and mildly herbal hopped stone-fruited light-bodied Goldenshine Ale.

Less intriguing were neutral blackened hop-embittered malt-serene Alt, ersatz honey-roasted Badger Red Ale, hazy fruit-embittered ESB and shallow coffee bean-soaped nut-barren Irish Stout.

ANGELIC BREWING

United States Brewpubs,

MADISON, WISCONSIN

Opened around ’95, maroon stucco ANGELIC BREWING featured outdoor deck (near parking lot), interior booths and tables, widescreen TV, and two sets of brew tanks to the right and rear, July ‘05. But alas, it closed down during economic woes of ’08.

Sandwiches, pizza, salads, and appetizers adorned light menu. Brewer Dean Coffey showed off a wide variety of beers, using the deep-fruited nature of evergreen Purgatory Ale, a persuasive perfume-hopped pineapple-mango-accented orange-peeled winner, to serenade malleable floral hop-embittered Arch Amber (a highly acidic alcohol-endorsed ale with unripe peach and marmalade illusions).

Pilsner-styled Avalon Blonde Golden Ale gained raw wheat backbone to enhance spry lemony grapefruit souring and currant bittering.

Scant nuttiness imbued soft-fruited raw-honeyed wheat-biscuit-y Shakedown Nut Brown and creamy coffee-dried maple-sapped chocolate-roasted Sinners Stout.

 

GREAT DANE – MADISON

United States Brewpubs,

MADISON, WISCONSIN

Sojourned again to Madison, July ’05, having fun at all three Madison-based pubs with Chi-town friend, Doug Van Dell. The original GREAT DANE, a rustic Victorian-style brewpub established in ’94, had been a hotel built in 1859. Its inceptive old tavern wood furnishings still haunt the bar (with a few names carved in).

While Great Dane’s brews were all over the map quality-wise, this heart of the city pub definitely has the best college party atmosphere. There’s a stonewalled dungeon-like basement leading to the spacious beer garden, a right side billiards room, secondary upstairs bar, and hearty burgers and sandwiches for dining pleasure.

My favorite brew was dazzling perfumed tutti-frutti American Pale Ale, followed by soft-hopped lemony mandarin orange-grapefruit-spiced Parkers Publican Pale Ale and delicate mocha-malted chestnut-glinted vanilla-accented Black Watch Scotch Ale.

Less thrilling were pink lemonade-glowed melon-slighted Watermelon Wheat, dry lemony raw-honeyed wheat-husked Honey Blonde, watery walnut/black coffee/burnt coal-tinged Emerald Isle Stout, inconsequential prickly-hopped corn-husked acridity Landmark Light, soapy popcorn-like German Pils,and indifferent aspirin-chalked Peck’s Pilsner.

www.greatdanepub.com

GREAT DANE – FITCHBURG

United States Brewpubs,

MADISON, WISCONSIN

Both Madison and neighboring Fitchburg boast GREAT DANE brewpubs, servicing the nations’ #1 party school, University of Wisconsin.

In June ’03, I quaffed dry mocha John Stoner’s Oatmeal Stout; cocoa-dried mocha-espresso Black Earth Porter; spruce-y citrus Sugar River ESB; berry-spiced Old Glory American Pale Ale; fruit-candied Potters Run IPA; and off-dry lemon-wedged grapefruit-tart Crop Circle Wheat at Fitchburg site.

www.greatdanepub.com

Best store selection goes to nearby Monona’s D & R Liquor, where Gray’s, Tyranena, and Summit brews were bought.

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY & SMOKEHOUSE

United States Brewpubs, ,

Image result for against the grain smokehaus

LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY

Opened for business, October 2011, AGAINST THE GRAIN took over the space Browning’s Brewery used to occupy. Part of the Slugger Field complex along the Mississippi River, its brews have snarky names such as Citra Ass Down IPA, Scotland Charred, Quiet Rye-It, Dilator (oak-aged Doppelbock), Half-Hearted Pale Ale and London Balling (a bourbon-barreled barleywine). I’ve yet to visit this brewery. But below is the review of the now-defunct Brownings.

Image result for browning's louisville
Visited historic Churchill Downs, June ’04, prior to heading downtown for admirable BROWNING’S BREWERY, located at Louisville Slugger Field’s spacious mall. Browning’s Eileen Martin was one of only a few female head brewers in America (along with Bastone’s Kim Schneider). But Rey Miller took over dutues in ’08, bringing new recipes onboard.

Well-hopped brews seemed to stand out most prominently. Lively citric-honeyed Blonde; caramelized herbal tea-like Red Ale; spicy-bottomed rye-induced ESB; barley-toasted walnut-roasted perfume-spiced Nut Brown; and dark-spiced wheat-cracked moderation Vanilla Cream Ale benefited from crisp hop bittering.

Remarkable lactose-sweet, chocolate-coffee-stained, cereal grain-toasted Oatmeal Stout made fine dessert.

SOUTHAMPTON PUBLICK HOUSE

United States Brewpubs,

Southampton Publick House: Still In The Driver's Seat! - Hamptons.com
LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK

SOUTHAMPTON PUBLICK HOUSE, a large hedgerow-bordered homestead known as one of America’s greatest brewpub-microbreweries thanks to brewmaster Phil Markowski, attracts youthful locals and beer-geek tourists alike. Visited February ’07, its quaint décor, comfy atmosphere, and wood floors-tables perfectly compliment Southampton’s historic beach community an hour East of Patchogue. (now operated by owner Donald Sullivan, Southampton moved to nearby Jobs Lane around 2017).

Entering through patio deck, crowded left bar (with glass-encased brew tanks) had TV’s at all angles while the right side dining area had cozy fireplace and more brew tanks. Parched cereal-grained maize-dried wheat-husked grassy-hopped Montauk Light suited lighter thirsts while Saison-styled Cuvee Des Fleurs and Espresso Stout (both reviewed in Beer Index with all other Southampton brews) befit heartier cravings.

Lamentably, first-rate Abbot 12, Biere De Garde, and Saison Deluxe were out.

www.publick.com

BRICK HOUSE BREWERY

United States Brewpubs,

LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK

Serving as a brewpub since 1996, Patchogue’s red-bricked Main Street landmark, BRICK HOUSE BREWERY, a half-hour East of Farmingdale’s Black Forest Brew Haus, was initially visited February ’07.

The former hardware store with U-shaped left bar, upstairs banquet room, back dining area, rear beer garden, exposed ducts, and tin-tiled ceiling offered adequate menu (appetizers, light fare, Zuppa di Pesce, ribeye, chicken, pork) alongside reliable beers. Its rustic Bohemian brewing system at the front window served initial brewmaster Mark Burford’s varied fare.

Smooth-yet-pasty wheat-dried maize-husked citric-hopped astringency Main Street Light Ale and raw-honeyed cream-corned citric-tinged Honey Buzz were soothing openers.

Sharp Cascade hopped, fig-date-soured, faintly red-fruited Hurricane Kitty Pale Ale will suffice veritable hop-heads.

Better were butternut-hazelnut-fused chocolate-roasted nutmeat-bound grapefruit-tingled Paul Brown Ale and dry alcohol-burned barley-roasted floral-accented pear-apple-grape-draped Brickhouse Red.

Cappuccino-coffee-fronted, walnut-Brazilian nut-centered, black cherry-pureed, dark chocolate-backed Nitro Stout proved fine as lunchtime dessert.

I revisited Brickhouse with wife, cousins and friends in tow April ’13, getting a large community table upstairs in the family dining section behind the banquet room. A comfy space with TV’s along the wall showing the Yankees and Mets ballgames, it serves private local functions well. At this juncture, brewmeister Charles Noll and associate brewer Paul Komsci have taken over duties.
Alongside the delicious crabcakes, I order Anarchy Ale, an in-your-face hop blaster based on an India Pale Ale. Its spicy grapefruit-peeled orange rind bittering and creamy crystal malting stayed above the biscuit-y wheat base. My wife went with flagship session beer, Main Street Light, a mild grassy-hopped pilsner with dirty earthen mineral graining and reedy wood tones.
After dinner, soft-toned lemony orange-rotted Mother Chugga brought grassy hops and crystal malts to dewy vegetal earthiness.
Then, before leaving, I enjoyed Boewulf IPA, a wood-toned full body with lemon-dried grapefruit and orange peel bittering overriding peppery herbal hops.

www.brickhousebrewery.com

BLACK FOREST BREW HAUS

United States Brewpubs,

LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK

Since I’ve been visiting cousins ‘out on the Island’ and riding waves at Robert Moses beach since childhood, this oceanic haven feels like home, securing great memories. Although limited bottled beer selection hampers its idyllic splendor, Shoreline Beverage, Huntington (on Route 110) will impress drinkers with its selection of “over 800 beers.”

By February 2007, Shoreline boasted “over 1,200 beers,” including a large Belgian section where I found Brasserie Des Geants Saison Voisin, Drie Fonteainen Kriek, Du Bocq Blanches Des Moines, Fantome Brisse-Bon Bons, and Regenboog T’Smisje Kerst. Also picked up four Thomas Hooker and Tractor brews, Legacy Hedonism, Victory Boisterous Hellerbock, and Oskar Blues Gordon IPA.

During February ’07 two-day trip, finally visited three divergent Long Island brewpubs. Celebrating Mardis Gras-styled Fasching Festival (a German carnival flaunting fancy dresses, costume balls, and elaborate floats), Farmingdale’s industrial-sectioned large-theme restaurant-brewery BLACK FOREST BREW HAUS (closed 2021) had fascinating beer assortment to go with Bavarian dishes such as wiener schnitzel, wirtshaus veal, sauerbraten, zwiebelrostbraten (ribeye), rouladen (steak with bacon), and loaded potato pancakes.

Inside the tan cement building with red triangle entry and green awning, the slate-floored pub area had solid oak main bar, decorative porcelain tap towers (at secondary terminal), copper brew vats, and festive mural-backed stage area. Carpeted green-walled wood-chaired back dining space with fireplace plus ample outdoor biergarten added breadth.

Operating since August ’98, head brewer Joe Hayes supplied wide-ranging German-styled winners such as salty hop-fizzed lemon-peeled banana-clove-centered grapefruit rind-backed light body Hefe Weizen, dry Noble-hopped corn-malted citric-soured vegetal-dabbed floral-muted wood-lacquered Black Forest Pilsner and caramel malt-smoked, raw-honeyed, mineral-grained, fig-date-tinged, Marzen-styled Black Forest Amber Lager.

Best bets: sweet ‘n sour banana-bruised, prune-raisin-cherry-pureed, coriander-clove-allspice-seasoned, pecan-walnut-toasted, burgundy-brandy-port-finishing Weizen Bock and alcohol-warmed fig-raisin-grape-dried banana-bruised cocoa-chocolate-heeled cola-walnut-tinged earthen-hopped Scotch Ale.

During quick May ’08 stopover, tried impressive woody-hopped, orange-grapefruit rind-embittered, apricot-apple-sweetened I.P. Hayes IPA and cereal-grained, honey-malted, cornmeal-sorghum-influenced, lemony grapefruit-apricot-fruited Maibock.

My friend, Dennis Flubacher, visited Black Forest, October 2010, buying growler of resplendent Marzen-styled Oktoberfest. Its creamy maple malting intensified leafy gourd-spiced full body, gaining almond-toasted gingerbread-cardamom-cinnamon accents.

On two-hour lunch stint, January, 2011, tried superfine Black Forest Imperial Stout, a popular winter dessert treat that was going like hotcakes this Saturday afternoon with the wife. Its coffee-oiled hop-charred black chocolate roast stayed firm above ashen pine-sapped thickness and fig-dried black cherry variance to caramel-burnt toffee finish.  

Before visiting my cousins for a graduation party, August ’12, stopped by to try another fine elixir while sharing creamy spinach dips with wife and kids. Lactic cocoa-powdered black chocolate theme sufficed for lightly creamed Black Forest Oatmeal Stout, a rich dessert treat with a caramel-burnt Hershey’s chocolate kiss finish when warmed. Tertiary hazelnut-cherry-plum illusions faded through the toasted hop char and dark roasted mocha malting.  

Discovered two previously untried Black Forest brews during short April ’13 stopover. Totally awesome German rauchbier, Black Forest Smoked Porter, gathered peat-smoked dark chocolate malting, beechwood-kilned stove-burnt coffee bittering and pruned plum dabs, creating a Band-aid-like astringency that fades into an ashen hop char.

Vibrant Black Forest Imperial Pilsner allowed brisk grapefruit-sugared lemon zest as well as tangy tangerine and navel orange juicing to speckle cannabis-oiled salty hop bittering.

www.blackforestbrewhaus.com

PAZZO’S (PIZZA)

United States Brewpubs,

LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY

After July ’04 Louisville visit, headed to the charming well-kept college town of Lexington. Next to Kitty O’Shea’s Irish Pub at University of Kentucky campus lies two-level pizza joint PAZZO’S, a splendid microbrew haven offering fine Belgian, English, and American beer on tap and in bottle.

On tap, discovered uncompromising Alltech’s Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale, a decanted barrel-aged slow sipper with syrupy bourbon-whiskey-sherry warmth, resinous hop char, and oaken vanilla remnant.

www.pazzospizzapub.com

TRIPLE 7 BREWPUB

United States Brewpubs,

See the source image

LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

Gambling capitol lacks decent microbreweries as of ’03, though Main Street Station’s TRIPLE 7 BREWPUB offered fittingly named non-bottled tap suds such as Marker Pale Ale, High Roller Gold, Blackchip Porter and my wife’s favorite, a rewarding Mango ale.

After visiting nearby Hoover Dam, college pal Don Souffrant brought my wife and I to Town Pump, where we located Mexican brews from Casta and middling Santa Fe (New Mexico) fare.

www.tripadvisor.com

ALTITUDE CHOPHOUSE & BREWERY

United States Brewpubs,

 LARAMIE, WYOMING

Situated in rural Rocky Mountain plains, Laramie’s home to University of Wyoming. An hour’s drive North from Fort Collins, Colorado, this cowboy town houses mayor-owned ALTITUDE CHOPHOUSE & BREWERY, visited August ’07.

Near downtown railroad station, beige-bricked blue awning-draped brewpub had oak wood-furnished bar (with stumps as seats, TV’s atop liquor shelves, and windowed silver brew tanks to rear), large dining space, high ceilings, and extra side seating.

Enjoyed crab cake sandwich, soup, and salad with corn-sugared cereal-grained lemon-tinged Tumble Wheat, banana-bubblegum-clove-fronted cotton-candied perfume-hopped Solar Weizen, tannic grape-skinned fig-parched coffee-soured musk-wafted Highland Scottish Ale, floral-hopped apple-peach-pear-tweaked grapefruit-embittered oats-honeyed High Plains Pale Ale and hop-charred coffee-oiled chocolate-seeded fig-dried walnut-tinged Bearpaw Brown Ale.

Black coffee/coffee bean-conflux Expedition Porter may’ve outdone creamy coffee-roasted fig-spiced walnut-tinged 7200 Stout.

After lunch, Rosebud Strong Ale concentrated bruised cherry, tangy orange and syrupy peach into alcohol-singed finish.

Calm eucalyptus-heather peculiarities befit floral cherry-orange tang massing Old Venerable Double Wheat. Cologne-y diacetyl-duped tangerine-tangy Altitude Amber Ale went adrift.

www.altitudechophouse.com