All posts by John Fortunato

ALCATRAZ BREWING

INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA

June ’04 Mid-America trip brought wife and I to stylish central Indiana municipality. As the state capitol, Indianapolis is the third biggest Midwest city (behind Chicago and Detroit). Along the White River and surrounded by prairie lands, its neoclassical limestone-bronzed Soldiers And Sailors Monument overlooked fine downtown San Franciscan-styled ALCATRAZ BREWING (closed September 2013).

Done up in Southwestern motifs and offering decent mid-range brews to go alongside lunchtime fish tacos, burgers, and pizza, this centrally-located restaurant-brewpub attracts businessmen and families. Soft wheat-husked Search Light Golden Ale; light-bodied sunny-spiced citric-hopped sedation Weiss Guy Wheat; and dry red-fruited perfume-hopped caramel-malted Big House Red were readily approachable.

Black tea-embittered grapefruit-peeled floral-dried herbal-hopped Pelican Pale Ale; wood-burnt mocha-malted English-styled Birdman Brown; and mild chocolate-spiced cherry-wooded coffee-roasted dry-bodied Old Glory Stout each had greater character. 

www.alcatrazbrewing.com

DOSTAL ALLEY

IDAHO SPRINGS / CENTRAL CITY, COLORADO

Former mining community, Central City, is a rustic gambling mecca with one fair brewpub (visited August ’07). DOSTAL ALLEY operates as both slot machine casino and modest brewery. My wife, Karen, played the downstairs slots and won $45 on a single quarter. Small street level bar had gorgeous murals and opposing TV’s and served simple pizza dishes while pint-size deck abutted rear parking lot.

Ridiculously cheap beers ($1.75 for 10-ounce) included corn-sugared oats-toasted citric-embittered grassy-hopped barnyard-dried American City Pale Ale, lazily citric-dabbed, mildly caramel-malted She Said Red Ale and superior creamy vanilla-surged, black-brown chocolate-y, hop-charred, espresso-finishing Shaft House Stout.

www.casinocity.com

TOMMYKNOCKER BREWERY

IDAHO SPRINGS / CENTRAL CITY, COLORADO

Just over the mountainous terrain west of Denver lies one large-scale microbrewery and one rustic brewpub-casino, visited August ‘07. Right off Route 70 in former mining town, Idaho Springs, TOMMYKNOCKER BREWERY resides inside an old warehouse. Cove-like left dining opposes centralized bar and massive brew tanks.

Ate traditional American pub fare alongside tart Tundra Beary and nutty Imperial Nut Brown (reviewed in Beer Index). Afterwards, quaffed malt-spiced floral-honeyed Pick Axe Pale Ale. Take scenic OhMyGod Trail from Central City for awe-inspiring journey.

www.tommyknocker.com

FRANKLIN’S RESTAURANT & BREWERY

HYATTSVILLE, MARYLAND

Formerly an 1880’s landmark blacksmith-hardware post one-mile south of University of Maryland, industrial retro-contemporary tin edifice, FRANKLIN’S RESTAURANT & BREWERY, featured downstairs general store, right side bar, cafeteria dining, and exposed ductwork. Bright red, yellow, and amber paint matched café-styled tablecloths and menu included sandwiches, pizza, soup-salad, seafood, and meat dishes on November ’06 visit.

Behind upstairs left bar were glass-encased brew tanks, where several fine brews were crafted. Both lemon-soured wheat-straw Kolsch-styled Bombshell Blonde and bark-dried, grapefruit-peeled, lemon rind-embittered Anarchy Ale had maize-hazed hop depth.

Dryly phenol, piney-hopped, apple-pear-inferred Sierra Madre Pale Ale was bettered by similarly mannered, daintily juicy-fruited, English-styled Twisted Turtle Pale Ale. Mocha-burnt cherry-pureed fig-dried Coffee Stout went well with dessert.

Best bets were oak chip-burnt, sharply red-fruited, floral-hopped Chaos and more deviant crystal-chocolate-malted, ice coffee-segued Rubber Chicken Red.

Not to be outdone, watercress-like, earthen-grained, cherry-apple-apricot-spiced Private IPA and its stylistically superior banana-creamed cherry-oozing Nitro IPA are highly recommended.

Bought Green Flash West Coast IPA, Ridgeway Lump Of Coal, and Three Floyd’s Brian Boru Irish Red Ale at Franklin's general store (reviewed in Beer Index).

During January 2011, sojourned once more to Franklin’s, meeting brewer Mike Roy for short conversation before drinking five previously untried brews at upstairs bar next to glass-encased brewtanks.

Brown-sugared caramel-creamy chocolate-roasted molasses-malted raisin-dried cherry-soured Old Miser Old Ale and equally fine chocolate-browned cocoa-milked vanilla-daubed cherry-pureed peat-malted Highland Hugh Scotch Ale suit dessert connoisseurs.

Cask ale heads will enjoy nitro version of Oatmeal Stout, a soft-watered oats-toasted with black coffee, dark chocolate, and vanilla tones.

Approachable medium-bodied Private IPA contrasted twiggy bark dryness, orange-peeled grapefruit rind bittering and fungi yeast funk against perfumed peach-pineapple-mango tang.

Just as interesting, though bitterer, Northwest Alpha Double Black IPA paraded roasted mocha malts and easygoing tar-like hop-charred bittering across citric-juiced fig-date conflux and latent licorice lick.

www.franklinsbrewery.tripod.com

 

GILDED OTTER

HUDSON VALLEY, NEW YORK

Across Hudson River ten miles West, New Paltz-based GILDED OTTER came to prominence in the '90s before being sold to Clemson Brothers in 2018. On my initial visit, Gilded Otter served several premier brews October ‘04. Its exquisite cultured stone exterior, interior lodge-styled wood design, and covered side deck perfectly fit the hilly terrain, as additional dining, arcade games, and a pool table reside upstairs.

Vast beer menu changes frequently, but standard fare included delicately citric-hopped straw wheat light-body Huguenot Street American Lager, tea-like mocha-smoked soft-spiced New Paltz Crimson Lager, pale malt-sugared orange-lemon peel-embittered hop-spiced Rail Trail Pale Ale and sharply fruit-spiced pine-needled Three Pines India Pale Ale.

Expressive dry-roasted coffee-burnt maple-nutty Chief Mat SaySay Porter and milky-sweet hazelnut-coffee wood-chafed Stone House Oatmeal Stout reached perfection.

Variegated autumnal seasonals include light-bodied pumpkin-cinnamon-clove-fringed mash tun-soured Ottertoberfest, pumpkin pie-encrusted cinnamon-nutmeg-allspice-spiced Clove Valley Pumpkin Ale and bolder pumpkin-spiced vanilla-creamed stout-backed Stumpkin Ale.

On September ’08 revisit, met long-time brewer Darren Currier with beer pal Al Gutierrez and sucked down soft-bodied lemony banana-clove-centered sour-candied popcorn-buttered herbal-tinged Hefeweizen and strangely illuminating aluminum-hued Back Porch Summer Lager, with its washed-out blueberry frontage, club soda fizz, and dry husked wheat backend.

Better yet were bittersweet molasses-glazed malt-smoked chocolate-roasted fig-soured twig-teased dry-bodied Dusseldorf Altbier and lactic black chocolate-y espresso-creamed coffee-burnt sarsaparilla-tinged wood-smoked Stone House Export Stout.

Currier then brought out 12-ounce bottle of private stocked Centennial Barleywine, a heady top-shelfer with creamy cognac urgency serenading red apple-ripened apricot-cherry-pear fruiting, subtle brandy-burgundy boozing and bruised banana-orange swirl over buttery caramel-toffee malts.

Driving one-hour South from Albany, October '10, I quaffed a few more libations before a late-afternoon Yankees-Rangers playoff showdown came on. Discovered two OK brews that might not have reached the glorious heights set by Dusseldorf Altbier and Stone House Export Stout, but were gratifying nonetheless.

Though it’ll sound adverse, dry-fruited cocoa-dusted caramel-toasted Dunkelweizen convincingly layered banana-breaded grape-skinned raisin-fig souring atop musty earthen dinginess.

Next up, cascade-headed mahogany-bodied Stone House Cream Stout may’ve lacked expected creaminess, but its lactic milk-sugared entry and cocoa-dried chocolate caking accrued cherry-pied grape-stemmed dried fruiting above dinky vegetal nuances to good affect.

www.gildedotter.com

HYDE PARK BREWING

HYDE PARK BREWING COMPANY - Menu, Prices & Restaurant Reviews - Tripadvisor HUDSON VALLEY, NEW YORK PREFIX: Perhaps the greatest bottled beer selection in America resides in Poughkeepsie, a rocky terrace town off the Hudson River sixty miles north of Manhattan. Even after sucking down 2,500 different beers by July ’03, I found 50 more (including new local selections by Wagner Valley, Middle Ages, Southern Tier, and Cooperstown) at spectacular HALF TIME, then 25 more, August ’04, another 22, October ’04, and 18 more, September ’07. Up North ten miles from Half Time on Route 9W lies HYDE PARK BREWING, a cozy farmhouse sports bar with brew tanks both above the central wooden bar and to the right upon entering. Located in Franklin Roosevelt’s hometown, this New Hyde Park brewpub, across the street from Marist College, has dartboards, arcade games, and a fabulous antique beer can collection, visited October ’04, then September ‘07. From lightest to heaviest, its fair-to-middling brews included lemony hop-embittered, wheat-strawed, corn-starched, Munich-styled Helles, Big Easy Blonde; softly carbonated metallic-rimmed maize-dried Saaz-hopped earthen-backed Bohemian-styled Winkle Lager; tart orange-peeled banana-dried Barrel 9; and cherry-orange-tart, tobacco-sweet, butter-nutted, wheat-biscuit-y Rough Rider Red Lager. Prickly-hopped, Band-aid-wafted, dried-fruited, diacetyl-laden S.O.B; cocoa-nutty fig-soured coffee-oiled Schwarzbier-styled Von Schtupp’s Dark Lager; soft mocha-dried Mary P.’s Porter; and creamy espresso relaxant Chaos Dry Stout were only slightly weightier. www.hydeparkbrewing.moonfruit.com

HAM’S BREWHOUSE & RESTAURANT

GREENVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA Open since 1925 (and a brewpub since 1998), HAM’S BREWHOUSE & RESTAURANT served East Carolina University before economic hardships hit in 2009. Before closing, Ham's was situated in a red brick factory building with green and white awnings. Its outdoor deck featured a replica of E.C.U.’s football field. Railroad signs lined the walls and a miniature choo choo train encircled the large left side eating space and right side bar area. Brew tanks were in back near secondary bar and upstairs cigar lounge pleased smokers. July ’06, my family washed down ribs, burgers, and chicken dishes with pallid yellow-fruited peppery-hopped Helles-styled Sunset Lager, sweet Scotch-malted Charlie’s Barley Scotch Amber, soft lemony-hopped rye-breaded wheat-dried  Silver Lake Rye and fleeting hop-toasted fig-dabbed caramel-teased TR’s Vienna Lager. Buttery caramel chocolate-y Mother’s Milk Cream Stout could’ve been heartier, but combustible dry-bodied Cascade-hopped Peg Leg Pale Ale proved indispensable with its floral red-fruited spicing, woody-bottomed brevity, and bitterly lemon rind finish.

NATTY GREENE’S PUB & BREW. CO.

GREENSBORO, NORTH CAROLINA

In the center of town in red brick building with black frontage lies NATTY GREENE’S PUB & BREW. CO., visited July ’06. Upon entering wood-floored corner tavern, ductwork-exposed dining section leads to liquor-lined mahogany-mantled bar (with eight stools plus Newcastle, Spaten, and Stella Artois on tap). Upstairs loft offered billiard tables and right side deck provided nice village view.

Brewer Scott Christoffel crafted a fine array of libations in rear brewtanks to go with excellent sandwiches, wraps, burgers, and salads.

Sharp red-fruited, piney hop-embittered, floral-dabbed, charcoal-singed Natty’s Pale Ale, bitter hop-roasted, dark-fruited, raw-honeyed, wood-toned Buckshot Amber Ale and soft candy-spiced, lemon rind/orange pith-embittered, unripe banana-tinged Belgian-styled Wildflower Witbier were well-rounded.

Phenol wheat-chaffed maize-dried baked-bready Guilford Golden only suited blue-collar thirsts.

Though General Stout and Old Town Brown were unavailable, excellent Cannonball Double IPA brought bright orange-tangerine tang and bruised cherry depth to delicate buckwheat-backed hop sass.

From rival Greensboro brewpub, Red Oak Amber had cheap wheat-pleated fizz, blush corn-husked center, and sour diacetyl finish.

www.bigdraft.com

BREWZZI ITALIAN AMERICAN BISTRO – WEST PALM BEACH

GOLD COAST, FLORIDA Twenty miles north of Boca on the second floor of West Palm Beach’s neuvo City Place emporium lies the second BREWZZI ITALIAN AMERICAN BISTRO, visited January '08 (closed July '14). Beautiful copper bar, open-fire kitchen, and glass-encased brew tanks serve wooden side pews and octagon-shaped open veranda. Salad, pizza, and burger were enjoyed January ’08 alongside approachable standard fare such as soft French-breaded hop-fizzed straw-grassed grapefruit-tart peach-syrupy Boca Blonde Lager, polite cereal-grained peach-fuzzed raspberry-strawberry-tinged Bohemian Pilsner, and biscuit-y orange-fig-centered nut-backed medium-bodied City Fest. These were mere lead-ins for barley-roasted coffee-grounded chocolate-malted fig-dried dunkelweiss-styled Black Duke Dark. Topping that were two boozy concoctions: candy-glazed apple-apricot-pear-spiced guava-mango-salted Double English Pale Ale and syrupy alcohol-warmed cherry-bruised prune-stewed raisin-pureed Brewzzi Reserve Barleywine. www.brewzzi.com

BREWZZI ITALIAN AMERICAN BISTRO – BOCA RATON

GOLD COAST, FLORIDA

Located near the famous Town Center Mall in a freestanding tan building with brick foundation and tropical veranda, Boca Raton’s BREWZZI ITALIAN AMERICAN BISTRO is the original of two same-named brewpubs (visited January '08 and closed 2014). Established around ’99, its exquisite cherry-stained wood interior features barrel-bolted ceiling design (symbolizing the beer kegs), square center bar fronting glass-encased brew tanks, right hand booths, and open hearth.

Had delicious lunchtime Brewers Ranch Salad as wife and high school pal, Jerry Granato (who drank three Beck’s Non-Alcoholic beers in 10 minutes), joined me following short beach-pool stint.

Wood-dried grapefruit-soured juniper-embittered American Amber Ale had off-putting skunked waft, cardboard-y center and corn-oiled finish. Better blueberry-lacquered Tropical Madness had sweetly candied peach-pineapple-mango cache sidling grainy Boca Blonde Lager base.

Best bet: brown chocolate-fronted, cedar-burnt, prune-stewed, cherry-pureed, bourbon-nipped, crème brulee-dabbed Imperial Porter.

www.brewzzi.com

BIG BEAR BREWING

GOLD COAST, FLORIDA 25 miles northwest of Miami, Coral Springs' upscale BIG BEAR BREWING is situated inside Stonegate mall on University Drive (visited January ’08). Left side green-maroon awning, right side red brick section, and front deck mark exterior while oblong center bar (with conveniently placed TV’s), large dining area, and entranceway brew tanks garnish brick-sided interior. Brewer Matthew Cox crafted basic soft-hopped regulars such as mildly bitter lemony lightweight Polar Light Golden Ale, salty hop-sharp grapefruit-peeled apple-candied pear-ripened IPA-styled Hibernation Pale Ale and honey-dipped caramel-malted red-fruited Irish-styled Grizzly Red Ale. Fruitier choices were banana-cherry-bruised honey-suckled Belgian Blonde and tart peach-lacquered wheat-cracked Peach Ale. Better still were creamy plantain-fig-date-dried vanilla-backed Kodiac Belgian Dubbel, buttery tobacco-dried vanilla-malted fig-prune-pecan-hoisted Brown Bear Ale and veritable chocolate-spiced dessert treat, Bourbon Barrel Stout (a citric-peeled prune-pureed Kahlua-tinged bourbon whiskey-finishing elixir). www.bigbearbrewingco.com

THE ABBEY

GOLD COAST, FLORIDA

A few blocks beyond South Beach’s gaudily stylish trendiness lies inconspicuous closet-sized bar, THE ABBEY, established 1995. A tremendous Miami find, this cramped hole-in-the-wall has exclusive agreement with Melbourne-based Indian River Brewery to craft Raymond Rigazio’s excellent exclusive beers that compete favorably with 20-plus microbrews-imports available on tap. Two stain-glass Abbey mural insignias at right side bar oppose five pews filled with cigarette-smoking college age drinkers.

My wife quaffed Lost Coast Apricot Wheat as I sampled three house beers at cozy coffin corner near glass frontage during crowded Friday night, January ‘08.

Superbly rounded Immaculate IPA placed intricate red-orange fruiting across resinous floral-hopped grapefruit swell and wintry evergreen scour. Brother Aaron’s Quadrupel propelled lush rosé, brandy, and sherry notes atop creamily caramelized raisin-plum profundity.

Equally fine, Father Theodore’s Imperial Stout regaled black chocolate-y sweetness and dried red cherry radiance overriding tertiary port, molasses, toffee, anise, liqueur, and raisin serenity.

www.abbeybrewinginc.com