Reclusive, loosely defined, wheat-smoked German lightweight goes for subtler stylistic approach and nearly works as a crossover. But its unspecific peat-smoked cedar char and seared meat niche succumb to wavering flavor profile. Warbled chocolate-spiced malting and nutty fruit sprucing hit a snag, never fully penetrating the surface. Sputtering pecan-buttered almond and chestnut undertones never fully integrate with dried-fruited stewed prune, pureed raisin and dried fig sedation (or tangy red cherry, red apple, navel orange and berry notions). Distant honey-glazed ham and banana nut cake nuances dry up.

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