Following St. Louis Cardinals baseball game, August ’04, headed two blocks from Mississippi River waterfront to red-bricked buildings and cobblestone streets of bustling Laclede’s Landing.
With its gray dual buildings, quaint midsection beer garden and street corner dining area, satisfactory MORGAN STREET BREWERY (closed 2022) offered dry coffee-stained resin-tarred hop-charred Irish Stout; doughy hop-bitten unsweetened tea-likeAltbier; dark-fruited malt-sweetened Pale Ale; mildly bitter-grained Cobblestone Steam Lager; and tangy-fruited lemongrass-strewn summertime lightweight Kristall Weiss.
After perusing Route 66 Brewery, visited SCHLAFLY’S central courtyard for lofty liverwurst sandwich, tasty appetizers, and mediocre beers, August ‘04. Open since ’91, this uptown early 20th century brick structure matches the riverfront properties one-mile east at the Mississippi River. Though I disliked many Schlafly’s brews on site, the bottled selection of ‘Big Beers’ such as Schlafly Reserve Barleywine and Schlafly Bourbon-Barrel Imperial Stout (’07), reviewed in Beer Index, have been extraordinary.
From best to worst: dried-fruited hop-sharp orange peel-embittered American Pale Ale; lemon-dried tea-tobacco-rye-embracedEnglish Mild Ale; coffee-roasted dry-bodiedOatmeal Stout; muted banana-pineapple-clove-absorbed Hefeweizen; caramel-honeyed moderate-hoppedPale Ale; and astringent wheat-cracked corn-dampened foam-soaped American Lager.
Sadly, Schlafly’s pale-lagered bitter-grainedPilsner fell short, Summer Kolsch remained blandly acrid, and diacetyl yellow-fruited Dortumunder was flat. Bottled versions are available locally.
By 2010, Schlafly had a new line of great beer that took ’em nationwide.
Escaped to western gateway port from Illinois, August ’04. First stop, midtown’s ROUTE 66 BREWERY (named after old highway connecting thriving Midwest hubs to California) had few pool tables, large recreational room, well-kept barroom, and interesting ‘50s rebel motifs. But the all-encompassing brewery closed down, 2005.
Impressive Belgian Triple Aleboasted unassuming 10% alcohol charge, dry grape tannins and lemon-orange peel bittering. Soft-hopped lemon-tart Blond Ale; lemon-fizzed berry-ripe Rambling Raspberry Blonde Ale; wheat-husked quince-spiced pale-malted River City Red Ale; tangy berry-fruited, herbal tea-tinged, beechwood-smoked O’ Fallon Gold and nut-roasted espresso-milked Irish Stout served ample backup.
The newest of three Royal Oak brewpubs, 4th and Main restaurant, BASTONE (opened ’02), offered French-styled Belgian food on ground level and former head brewer Sean Brennan’s Belgian-styled ales at downstairs European Industrial setting, August 04.
Exposed pipes, cinderblock walls, widescreen TV’s and fittingly lounge-y exotic music complemented gently spiced warmth of wispy cherry-fronted orange-peach-pear-aided Cognac-like Dubbel Ale, prominent orange-bruised quince-grapefruit-driedSummer Ale, seductive coriander-spiced orange peel-embittered grape-tannic Wit, bitter prickly-hopped lemony mandarin orange-tart Belgian Pale Ale and buttery yellow-fruited wheat-honeyed Continental-styled Pilsner.
By 2005, former Dragonmead brewer Kim Schneider had come aboard. In ’06, quaffed creamy banana split-like Hefeweizen, with its mild vanilla-dipped peach-mango tang opposing hop-embittered bite.
Two blocks from Lily’s Seafood (off Main Street) lies freestanding blue-collar red-bricked column-roofed ROYAL OAK BREWERY (originally perused August ’04). Great bottled Belgian beer selection (Chimay-Corsendonk-Delirium-Lindeman’s-Boon) complemented good on-tap assortment at wood-tabled slate-floored joint.
American food fare (brick oven pizza/ pasta/ sandwiches) included tasty Beer Co. Beef Tips (with blue cheese-horseradish dip) while discounted $4 growler refills were available on Tuesdays.
Tried black cherry-influenced nut-charred espresso-roasted coffee-dried Wanna Stout, spice-hopped citric-tingedRoyal Oak Red Ale, hop-bitten apple-peach-pear-imbued Brewhouse ESB, and diacetyl grapefruit-mellowed Northern Light Pilsner.
Crown jewel: alcohol-burnt Scotch-malted prune-strewn Anniversary Ale #9, with its piney nectar-bruised orange-soured cherry-ripened floral-hop bitterness.
During ’06 stop, tried essential chocolate-roasted earthen-hopped maple-tarred walnut-chestnut-hazelnut-charred Pappy’s Porter and red licorice-like grape-soured fig-dried Belgian-styled Dubbel Trubbel.
Sojourned August, ’06, to industrial northerly Illinois municipality, Rockford, flaunting one of America’s greatest brewpubs, the astonishing CARLYLE BREWING. Located right in the heart of town, this diminutive no-frills Mecca may have only a few booths, tables, and bar chairs (plus a brief pizza-sandwich-snack menu) but its impressive array of beers will impress connoisseurs.
Listed in order of preference, the best fare included slow-sipping malt-caramelized maple-sapped brown-sugaryBlessed Brown (finishing with silken burgundy-brandy-sherry caress), dry piney-fronted hop-embittered hickory-burnt orange-grapefruit-pear-pineapple tropicalia Humulus Lupulus IPA and malt-candied papaya-kiwi-banana-cherry-drenched Belgian Dubbel.
Nearly as great were pecan-wafted toffee-molasses-sweetened banana-breaded clove-spiced Dunkel Weizen, soothingly sweet vanilla ice cream-like dessert peculiarity Vanilla Cream Ale (with its almond-tinged Scotch tingle and fuzzy citric slip), dainty coughdrop-like coriander-lemongrass-hintedTrigeminale, and Humulus’ lighter version, the creamy citric-lined wood-varnished marigold-tinged carrot-asparagus-insinuated Lil’ Loopy.
Though docile black coffee-soured, dark chocolate-chalked, espresso-milked Stout and lazily fruited, chocolate-backed Scottish Ale fell short of perfection, the terrificPilsener bettered nearly anything in mainstream market, bringing buttery honeyed wheat segue to sugary cereal-oats midst, creamed corn blitz and earthen barnyard-hay base.
On the outskirts in Ogden, ROHRBACH BREWING has a log cabin exterior, low-ceilinged right side bar area, left side dining booths, rear brew tanks, and great food prices. Founded in 1991, it is Rochester’s first brewpub.
Visited July ’05, beers were a bit tepid, from soft tea-like Red Wing Red Ale, mediocre sharp-hopped tangerine-lemon-fruited Highland Amber Lager, barrenly red-orange-fruited Scotch Ale, lemon-wedged lime-centered wheat-husked Southwedge Summer Ale, softly-embittered blueberry-prominent Bluebeary, buttery raw-honeyed lemon-aided Hefe-Weizen and dimly cocoa-soured licorice-tinged Sam Patch Porter. But vanilla frosting-scented birch-dried coffee-chocolate-cocoa-fused Vanilla Porter was nice exception.
This brewery has survived since the ’90s – prior to the New Beer Revolution – and the beer recipes have improved.
Across from minor league Frontier Field baseball stadium in centralized High Falls section lied BRU, which opened February ’04 and closed two years hence. In a big industrial building (formerly a button factory) with outdoor deck, back dining, encased brew tanks, rear billiards, and dining booths on State Street side, this near-upscale venue offered appetizers, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers, plus warbled brew selection, July ’05.
On tap, meekly-grained popcorn-like blue collar fodderBig Rack Blonde, diacetyl off-dry banana-sifted clove-spiced Yellow Card Hefeweizen, Cascade hop-embittered orange rind-sharp quince-berry-currant-backed Dugout IPA, bitter hop-fruited blueberry-dousedBruberry Ale and subtly sweet chocolate-smoked Rochester Robust Porter proved to be middling.
Visited three differing local brewpubs at upper New York metropolis, July ’05. Rochester University hangout THE DISTILLERY at Mount Hope section is in freestanding brick and cedar building. Though brews were mediocre, cozy cove-like rooms, wood paneled walls, upstairs dining, satellite TV’s, and second floor deck with awning provide great sports bar atmosphere.
Brew tanks caddy cornering right side offered indistinct mild-hopped berry-driedRaspberry Wheat, blurry wheat-husked diacetyl-spoiled Iroquois Amber,and cereal-grained Scotch-snipped hop-bit British Ale.
Besides two corporately predictable Hops Grillhouse & Brewpubs, this State Capitol once offered commendable RICHBRAU BREWING, based in the heart of Richmond’s cobblestone Shockoe Slip section. It closed down in ’09 due to economic woes. Legend Brewery, a decent microbrewery, still exists (bottled versions reviewed in Beer Index).
Richbrau’s plentiful downstairs dining area had dark-stained wooden booths, bi-level marble column bar, and decorative beer barrel balcony. Upstairs, large billiard rooms festooned wood bar area; brew tanks adorned the rear.
Post-X-Mas ’04, quaffed crisp lemon-grapefruit rind-embittered, wheat-backed softie Griffin Golden Ale, mildly phenol, red-fruited Old Nick Pale Ale, silkily fruited, dry-hopped Real Ale, caramel-butterscotch-splotched, dark-spiced Big Nash Porter and Kahlua-like mocha-marshmallow-deepened Imperial Stout.
Bottled versions of each are available on site, alongside brisk grapefruit rind-embittered, orange peel-brightened, lemony-hopped Richbrau Belgian-Style White Ale, acridly gauzy, coffee-butterscotch-hazed Richbrau Brown Ale and dry chocolate-roasted, hop-spiced Richbrau India Pale Ale, tasted afterwards. Post-script: Mc Nasty Nachos are recommended.
On July ’06 trip through Virginia, revisited Richbrau, trying spicy vegetal-dipped, yellow grapefruit-sharpened, corn-husked Kolsch and lemony banana-surged fruit-hopped candy-tart spritzer Kristal Weizen on tap.
With pal Al back home in Jersey, swigged bottled versions of plain pale-tonedRichbrau Alley Oop Ale (a dry-bodied grassy-hopped lightweight with faded yellow fruited frontage plus pleated peppery tobacco nip), soft bubblegummy coriander-spiced banana-sweet floral-tinted Richbrau Belgian White Ale and dry chocolate-roasted coffee-milked honey-dipped fig-soured dilution Richbrau Big Nasty Porter.
Heading West a few miles, one of the finest microbrew stores is undoubtedly Glen Allen’s Wine & Beer Westpark. Bought five Legend brews, Utah’s Uinta Brewery sampler 12-pack, and Colorado-based Oskar Blues Old Chub there (reviewed in Beer Index).
Former Stoudt’s, Neversink, and Pretzel City brewer, lager-loving Tom Rupp set up shop in nearby rustic village, Reamstown, April ‘07 (becoming Rural City Beer Co. in 2021). Visited three months hence, UNION BARREL WORKS is located in a red brick garment building with silver brew kettles peeking out front window (and towards back). Beautiful wood-carved mural adorns left bar, burgundy-framed ceiling tiles add Old World ambience, and oak barrels are utilized as tables near spacious dining area.
Fair-priced light menu included fabulous trout chowder, sandwiches, and salads to go with light fare such as buttery hop-peppered fig-pecan-teased Dortmunder-styledLager, lemony sugar-daubed straw-wheat acridity Kolsch and bittersweet lemon-wedged banana-clove-bubblegum-softened Hefeweizen.
Dry Cascade-hopped lemon-peeled apple-grapefruit-soured wood-lacquered Pale Ale, fig-honeyed date-soured almond-tinged Wobbly Bob Doppelbock and dry coffee bean-roasted nut-oiled black chocolate-y Roundboy Stout also sufficed.
Best bet: tangy cherry-peach-pear-fronted orange-bruised banana-backed maple-sugared pumpkin-tweaked Mai Bock (a sticky fruit beer with sharply bitter hop bite).
Though Reading suffered many setbacks, including the late-‘90s closings of Pretzel City, Neversink, Fancy Pants, and Camelot, in 2003 one prospering brewpub began operation. Past Reading’s busy small metropolis in the warehouse district lied freestanding outpost LEGACY BREWERY, visited December ’05, but closed down, 2009.
High-ceilinged red brick saloon opens to large wood bar with billiard tables, tiny stage area, and basement brew tanks poking through near first floor entrance. Wood tables surround sides and menu contained appetizers, soup-salad, pasta, filet mignon, duck, and scallop crabs.
Brewer Dave Gimmell’s exquisitely detailed fare included fig-date-dried mocha-rye-plied Bixler’s Alt Bier, sugarcoated banana-apricot-grapefruit-sketched lemon-embitteredEuphoria Belgian Strong Pale Ale and piney hop-spiced pear-apple-orange-fruited floral-etchedHeavy Handed Hops (Triple H).
Cascade hop-dried spruce-pined apple-grapefruit-reddened floral-hemp-edgedLegacy Hedonism (Red) Ale may’ve been better.
Lemony grapefruit-dried, perfume-hopped, wheat-husked Reading Bohemian Pilsner will soothe blue collar light beer lovers.
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
