Category Archives: United States Brewpubs

TRIUMPH BREWING – NEW HOPE

NEW HOPE, PENNSYLVANIA

In a red brick marketplace complex alongside vintage coal-run railroad cars, New Hope’s TRIUMPH BREWING (whose original brewpub centers nearby Princeton) offered light American cuisine to go with seven fine easy-appealing beers and ales, December ’05. The high-ceilinged bi-leveled pub had a railroad-sidled patio and a small stage for acoustic music near the back seating area.

Cascade-hopped fig-tongued rye-finishing Amber Ale, earthy vegetal-fronted, white peach-sweet, brown pear-skinned, persimmon-soothed Double Amber, evergreen-fresh red-fruited seasonal Winter Wonder, perfume-dried apple-peach-grape-fruited Bengal Gold India Pale Ale, and rain-watered coffee-roasted Irish Dry Stout mostly alleviate medium-bodied appetites.

Light yellow-fruited clean-watered phenol-smudged Lager and elegant wildflower-honeyed straw-hay-induced soft-hopped Honey Wheat suit tender thirsts.

At Jersey’s quaint Trap Rock Brewery in February ’09, had partial growler of Triumph Jewish Rye, a perfect liquid rye bread re-creation with caraway-seeded licorice-spiced pumpernickel breading, and one pint of dry hop-roasted coffee-beaned espresso-tinged cocoa-powdered Triumph Coffee N Cream Stout.

www.triumphbrew.com

BRU RM@BAR

NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT

Home to Ivy League University, Yale, New Haven’s rustic brick-laid pizza joint-nightclub BruRm@ Bar is centrally located in downtown New Haven just off Route 95. Initially visited September ’04, brew tanks spread across the rustic ground level and mezzanine. Split dining-bar area (with pool table) and upstairs seating provide snug college or family-styled atmosphere and an unfinished backroom serves as a tertiary party area.

Caramel-sugared, malt-spiced, red-fruited AmBar Ale appeases the widest variety of drinkers. Soft cereal-grained, biscuit-nuttered, mash tun-wafted, dry-bodied Toasted Blonde suits milder thirsts. Leafy, gourd-spiced, marzen-styled OktoBarfest and coffee-roasted, dry-pruned, cherry-soured Damn Good Stout were also welcome choices. My favorite quickly became sharply citric-hopped, spruce-induced, earthen-pined Pale Ale.

REAL ALE FESTIVAL – 2007

Revisited BruRm, January ’07, for REAL ALE FESTIVAL, hosted by brewer Jeff Browning and Connecticut beer-distributing brother-in-law Rob Neuner. The concept, serving cask conditioned ‘real ales’ manually pulled from cellar tanks with a hand pump, is to omit the extraneous gas common tapped beer emit. This traditional cask conditioned brewing method utilizes natural carbonation at a warmer temperature (serving 55 degrees) for non-filtered unpasteurized ales containing live yeast. Secondary fermentation thereupon brings forth gentle CO2 carbonation expressing a richer flavor with more character than standard ‘brewery conditioned’ ales.

Quaffed dry lemony grapefruit, grassy-hopped, black tea-like, raw-honeyed, herbal-spiced Rock Art Magnumus ete Tomahawkus Strong Red prior to herbaceous yellow-fruited peppery-hopped Southampton Yorkshire Pub Ale and fiercely espresso-embittered walnut-dried coffee-grounded Southampton Espressso Stout.

Nearly as great as the latter was bitterly Mexican coffee-roasted chicory-bound molasses-thick Dogfish Head Chicory Super Human Strength Espresso Stout.

Next up, tried sour yellow-fruited fig-raisin-scampered rye-vexed Trout River Mahogany Mild and herbal raw-honeyed orange-yellow-fruited grassy-hopped Trout River Pale Ale.

Alongside two pizza slices, swigged brown-sugared chocolate-malted fig-date-dried apple-grape-soured hop-grained Otter Creek Otter Kilter Wee Heavy Ale and fabulous orange-tangy grapefruit-spiced rye-malted woody-hopped dry body Willimantic Rail Mail Rye.

Loved oak-barreled City Steam offerings: piney hop-dried grapefruit-peach-apricot-calmed Innocence Pale Ale and fig-prune-dehydrated cocoa-dried olfactory-moistened Dominator Double Bock.

Similarly, oaken-aged vanilla-honeyed yellow-fruited dry-malted Opa-Opa Winter Strong Ale kept patrons happily content.

Then, homebrew store Zok’s brought forth lively yellow-fruited herbal-spiced honey-teased Saison D’Willimantic.

Poured a few Thomas Hooker brews thereafter, including molasses-thick cocoa-chocolate-toffee-sweetened, raisin-fig-plum-dried, vinous sherry-bourbon-cadenced Old Marley Barleywine and earthen peat-smoked, mulch-brine-guarded, malt-sugared, herbal-tinged Munich-Styled Golden Lager.

As dusk settled, quaffed pine-resinous fig-dried citric-depleted nutty-fluttered Martha’s Exchange Mc Gann’s London IPA, brown-sugared molasses-sweet walnut-roasted fig-soured chicory-finishing Martha’s (Exchange) Peculiar Brown (inspired by England’s Theakston Old Peculier), and spruce-hopped malt-spiced red-fruited Gardner Ale House Facelift IPA.

BruRm’s mildewed fig-date-soured malt-chocolate-y Ten Penny Reserve and mash tun-scented corn malt-savored citric-dabbed Dry-Hopped Bar Blonde were fine pre-dinner choices.

FURTHER REVISITS

June ’09, stopped in BruRm once more for lunchtime red pie pizza with mozzarella and Hobbomock Red Ale, a caramel-toasted apple-ripe peach-glazed tea-like fungi-tinged English mild ale.

Nearly two years hence, sojourned back to New Haven with wife and daughter on the way back from Bristol, Rhode Island. It was pouring rain this Tuesday in June as we consumed a large white pizza with spinach and two excellent beers (one previously perused and one newly tried.) We sat at the right corner front table as the place filled up with dinnertime locals.

I’d already enjoyed Browning’s Damn Good Stout, but this time its chocolate-milked cocoa chalking seemed more emphatic than the distant dried fruiting, chewier maple-molasses malting, and deepened peanut-shelled walnut-hazelnut expanse.

Excellent new discovery, Hitting 74 Double IPA brought elegant cologne-tongued, pine-combed, spruce-tipped bittering to frantic floral fruited frenzy and chewy caramel malting, plying tangy apple-reddened pink grapefruit, pineapple, apricot, mango, kiwi, and passion fruit tropicalia to prolonged alcohol burn.

www.barnightclub.com

* Also directly off Route 95 to the North a half-hour away at preserved historic seaport town, Mystic (which gained recognition through Mystic Pizza movie), found Blue Fin Stout and three New England brews (Elm City Lager/ Gold Stock Ale/ Atlantic Amber) listed in Beer Index at seafood restaurant, August ‘01.

BLACKSTONE RESTAURANT & BREWERY

Blackstone searches for new partner to run West End restaurant - Nashville  Business Journal

NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Near Route 40 on Broadway, freestanding red-bricked BLACKSTONE RESTAURANT & BREWERY (opened New Year’s Eve ’93), had an estate-like feel, with its brick archway-fronted private library, exquisite dining area, and tile-floored open space surrounding wood-furnished front bar (visited August ’08). Extensive beer bottle collection adorned shelving across interior walls and menu included wood-fired pizza, sandwiches, burgers, and salads.

Side entrance brew tanks served soft apricot-tangerine-grapefruit-centered maize-dried Summer Ale, fizzy hop-spiced banana-pureed clove-coriander-teased Hefeweizen and berry-tart citric-sweetened mild-grained Kolsch-styled Chaser Pale Ale.

Peat-smoked hazelnut-honeyed peanut-shelled Nut Brown Ale, woody-hopped dark-spiced apricot-grapefruit-draped Red Springs Ale and subtle brown chocolate-y hazelnut-snipped St. Charles Porter were arguably better.

www.blackstonebrewery.com

BIG RIVER GRILLE – NASHVILLE

Big River Grille & Brewing Works | Nashville, TN | Beers | BeerAdvocate
NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Downtown across from Hard Rock Café and within walking distance to the Tennessee Titans football stadium, BIG RIVER GRILLE opened around ’93 (and visited August ’08). A red neon sign and brown-tan awning lead patrons into spacious red brick-walled sportsbar. Redwood furnished dining areas surround central bar (with two widescreen TV’s and glass-enclosed brew tanks).

Light Americana food goes well with low hop-profiled beers such as tangy apple-peach-fronted, mildly orange peel-embittered, phenol-hopped 16th Avenue Pilsner, yellow-fruited honey-malted corn-sweetened maize-dried Southern Flyer Light Lager and honey-fruited spice-hopped corn-buttered Nashville Steamer Golden Ale.

Mild orange-bruised tangerine tartness picked up soft hop astringency vaporizing vanilla-cocoa sweetness of Summer Wheat.

Fine medium-bodied alternatives came next. Dry Cascade-hopped, orange-peach-pear-quince-sequenced Thick Brick Red Ale revealed deep wood tones. Caramel-chocolate-malted honey-roasted peanut-finishing Sweet Magnolia American Brown Ale gained floral-hopped nicety.

Chocolate-sweet vanilla-extracted cappuccino-milked hop-toasted Iron Horse Stout made fine dessert treat.

www.bigrivergrille.com

BOSCOS

NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Central Tennessee’s countrypolitan capital, Nashville, is home to Vanderbilt University (near the historic revitalized Hillsboro Village), Music Row (where Elvis Presley, Roy Orbison, and the Everly Brothers recorded), an exact replica of Greece’s Partheneon, and three fine brewpubs, visited August ‘08.

My wife and I were impressed by BOSCOS (with other locations in Franklin, Memphis, and Little Rock, Arkansas), one of the state’s first brewpubs.

In a red brick building with yellow-white awning, tan-terracotta checkerboard squares, high blue-tiled ceiling (with exposed pipes), and smallish bar (surrounded by dining space), Boscos not only offered worthy rear-tanked beers, but also terrific food (such as wood-fired pizza, pan-seared tuna salad, and artichoke-enhanced calzones).

Stalwart German-styled wood-fired granite-stoned ‘steinbier,’ Boscos Famous Flaming Stone Lager, a sourly yellow-fruited, stone wheat-centered, caramel-glazed, dry-hopped pale ale, retained subtle peculiarities any adventurous beer lover should experience.

Other representative Euro-designed libations included dry rye-fig-soured caramel-chocolate-coated Germantown Alt, engaging Pabst Blue Ribbon knockoff BBR (using ‘cheapest ingredients’ for glutinous soft-hopped syrupy corn-malted session beer) and barley-roasted Scotch-like cocoa-leafed fig-date-dried Isle Of Skye Scottish Ale.

Honey-dripped orange-peeled lemon-soured Boscos Bombay IPA may’ve lacked apropos Asian sway, but moderate-bodied vanilla-chocolate-sweetened cappuccino-milked hop-roasted Export Stout bettered some British Isle rivals.

Bitter orange-grapefruit-peeled dry-hopped Boscos XXX Pale Ale suffered from oxidized malfeasance while lightly citric mildly grained Boscos American Style Wheat got soapy.

www.boscosbeer.com

LIBERTY STEAKHOUSE / TAP ROOM

MYRTLE BEACH, SOUTH CAROLINA

At Broadway On the Beach mall area, LIBERTY STEAKHOUSE & BREWERY tendered slight fruit-tart Raspberry Wheat, citric-hopped coriander-spiced White Ale (with lemon wedge), orange peel-embittered wood-burnt floral-spiced India Pale Ale, wavering chocolate-nut softie Nut Brown Ale and dryly wheat-soured Miss Liberty Lager (reminiscent of Rheingold), July ‘04.

Upon July ’08 visit to franchised LIBERTY TAP ROOM & GRILL in Myrtle Beach’s Northwood Plaza, found out off-premise brewing was done by New South (same as T-Bonz). Opened since ’06, freestanding sienna stucco site had covered front patio connected to indoor sportsbar by oval bar (with nice tapped microbrew selection). Left dining section appeased families with younger children. Enjoyed RJ Rockers Buckwheat and Highland Oatmeal Stout (reviewed in Beer Index) while consuming burger and pizza.

www.libertysteakhouseandbrewery.com

MAD BOAR BREWERY

MYRTLE BEACH, SOUTH CAROLINA

Strangely, Barefoot Landing in North Myrtle Beach once had two brewpubs within walking distance. After hitting T-Bonz in July ’04, had steak dinner at the former MAD BOAR BREWERY. Brewmeister Moose offered sophisticated bourbon-sweet malt-dried Scotch Ale (with yummy dark chocolate-raisin-tobacco notes), soft-watered espresso-lingered raspberry-ensconced oatmeal-heeled Boar’s Snout Stout and ashy red-fruited orange peel-lingered Scotch-smitten Indian Pale Ale.

Lesser variants such as light peach-licked Golden Pilsener, soft malt-driven fruit-candied Pig Tail Ale, spritzy fig-date-spiced Carolina Copper Ale and tangy Raspberry Wheat were bland. Mad Boar has since moved and Jakalope Steakhouse now occupies the site.

T-BONZ GILL & GRILL

MYRTLE BEACH, SOUTH CAROLINA

Several southern summer sabbaticals have been spent with wife and kids at sunny coastal Carolina resort – riding waves (in nearby Sunset Beach), hitting the water slides, riding the rollercoaster, and fishing. Post-Xmas ’99 trip, discovered satisfactory Rock Creek and Pinehurst Village brews from North Carolina, but frustratingly no South Carolina suds. Experienced frenzied smart-ass atmosphere of zany eatery Dick’s Last Resort, where wry-humored waiters, silly paper hats, and novelty signs goof on unsuspecting patrons.

In ’03, finally tracked down three South Carolina beers crafted by Palmetto Brewery. During July ’04, I visited three friendly Grand Strand brewpubs. Though some offerings were somewhat bland and oxidized by comparison, much progress has been made since ’99.

At Barefoot Landing in July ’04, brick-walled wood-paneled mahogany-mantled steakhouse T-BONZ GILL & GRILL (formerly Landmark Tavern) featured New South brewer Josh Quigly’s recipes.

Tried astringent chocolate-serenaded coffee-roasted fig-walnut-teased Nut Brown Ale, frisky dry-hopped honey-dipped grape-soured lemon-bitter Market Street Wheat, lemon-hopped grapefruit-raspberry-tart Blonde Bombshell, blasé caramelized pecan-fig-daubed rye-dried Cooper River Red and lemon-fizzed wheat-husked maize-dried Low Country Light Lager.

Revisited T-BONZ July ’06, quaffing lo-cal honeyed-wheat lemon-peeled spritzer Waccaman Blonde, floral-dried citric hop-embittered India Pale Ale and sweet-sour raspberry-oxidized wheat-blanched Seltzer-fizzed Raspberry Wheat.

Upon July ’08 sojourn, saw Texas Rangers’ Josh Hamilton set homerun derby record at Yankee Stadium while consuming buttery soft-bodied, apple-pear-tangerine-spiced, orange peel-embittered IPA, sugary corn-sweetened maize-dried Amber Waves and cardboard-y citric-toned diacetyl-ruined Red Ale. Peppery-hopped lemon-candied orange-soured White Ale was moderate-bodied seasonal.

www.tbonz.com

EARTH BREAD & BREWERY

MOUNT AIRY, PENNSYLVANIA

There were three worthy brewpubs a few miles northwest of Philadelphia during May ’09 excursion. Mount Airy’s Earth Bread & Brewery still thrives. Lafayette Hills’ General Lafayette went under. And Glenside’s G.G. Brewers was closed during early afternoon stint.

Located in Mount Airy’s cobble-stoned main drag amongst antique shops and 18th century buildings, EARTH BREAD & BREWERY, opened October ’08, featuring ex-Heavyweight brewer Tom Baker’s newest exciting fare.

Entering through a side door at a corner entrance, this quaintly contemporary Euro café-pub (with green awning) has left side bar where world maps abound, right dining area with community table alongside three four-seaters, drop-floored brew tanks and stylish stone-fired flatbread pizzas to go with a revolving beer lineup. Remarkably, Baker has brewed at least two dozen different beers in only nine months of existence.

His ‘Liquid Breads’ on this May ’09 trip included Monk’s Table Amber Belgian, a soft-tongued light body enveloping sugared fig, date, and fennel illusions with fungi earthiness. Next up, Stickie Alt, a mellow hop-fizzed chocolate-caramel malted moderation, was equally fine.

Even better: oats-charred hop-toasted nut-sharpened chocolate-coffee-molasses-backed Non-Profit Porter.

Best bet: ‘Bareley’ Wine Strong Ale, with its candied banana, cherry, watermelon, and honeydew confluence enjoining buttery rum raisin midst to warm barleywine finish.

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In late December ’12, revisited EB&B with wife on cold Sunday evening for dinner. Sitting at the wood-floored yellow-walled upstairs dining area, we grab a table inside the raised booth (with pane-glassed window giving the illusion of privacy). Local art for sale line the walls and an old chandelier adds Old World eloquence.

Besides the skillfully handcrafted in-house libations, sterling outside offerings such as Brewer’s Art Resurrection, Victory Prima Pils, Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA, Ommegang Hennepin and Petrus Aged Pale Ale consumed the tap handles while hand-pulled Victory Uncle Teddy’s Bitter was on cask.

For an appetizer, we enjoy the round-caked Butternut Couscous Salad (with goat cheese, split peas, chickpeas, squash, dried cranberry and pistachios topped with spinach and cranberry reduction). Its fresh vegetal crispness enhanced the sweet ‘n sour pleasantries of  Goldilicks Wheat Saison, where zesty lemon juicing sidles wood-rotted smoked malting to the receding banana bubblegum finish, gaining soured kiwi, mango and papaya tropicalia.

Before the main course, I dipped into two stylishly dissimilar and unconventional winter brews. Czech-like pilsner malts saddled robust Alt Lang Syne, a Munich malt-toasted dry body with musty tea-like earthiness and mild hop bittering. Bolder Alcoholiday Imperial Ale placed nutty grains against perfume-hopped citric spritz.

While I consumed the spaghetti and meatball pizza, my wife delved into the tomato-sauced Traditional Pizza (with fresh mozzarella, garlic olive oil and basil).

As we finished up, I sipped the highly impressive Baltus Porterus, a well-rounded full body with dominant coffee-roasted souring secured by Belgian dark cane-sugaring and chocolate-spiced cocoa malting. Its ancillary sour ale-like dried fruiting relayed burgundy, bourbon, plum, prune, black grape and black cherry illusions to the rich barley-oats spine.

www.earthbreadbrewery.com

GENERAL LAFAYETTE INN & BREWERY

MOUNT AIRY, PENNSYLVANIA

In a freestanding gray-hued chalet-styled Lafayette Hills lodge five miles north of Earth Bread & Brewing on Germantown Pike, GENERAL LAFAYETTE INN & BREWERY marks history as a Revolutionary War-era relic (visited May ’09).

Opened as a brewpub in 1996, its small outdoor side deck leads to low-ceilinged catacomb-like wood bar middling right and left dining areas. Sunday buffet is recommended, but if that’s not doable than the sandwiches, seafood bisque, and French onion soup make fine alternative. But during tough economic times, brewery closed 2010 (but in late 2011 will open as Copper Crow Brewing Company).

Nevertheless, ex-brewmaster Christopher Leonard crafted two separate types of beers: Brewmaster Specials and Signature Ales. As for the former, honeyed raspberry resonates fizz-hopped yellow grape, apple, and strawberry tartness of dry Raspberry Mead Ale and washed-out peach-candied tartness counters grassy hop acridity of low-alcohol Economizer Pale Ale.

Better were brown-sugared chocolate-sweetened coffee-soured nut-sharpened peppery-hopped Chocolate Thunder Porter and black & tan red ale-porter hybrid Red Velvet, with its black cherry and stewed prune illusions propping peat-smoked malts to dry bourbon-burgundy finish.

Best bet: Alt! Who Goes There, a honey-spiced rum raisin-y banana-peach-bruised fruity dessert.

Signature Ales included simply outstanding candi-sugared banana-bruised clove-spiced corn-buttered Abbey Blonde Ale, dry wood-stained red-fruited Sunset Red Ale (which maintained crisp lemon-seeded grapefruit-currant bittering) and the lesser dry-bodied fungi-fruited aspirin-powdered Pacific Pale Ale.

www.coppercrowbeer.com