GREAT SOUTH BAY HOG CABIN MAPLE BACON PORTER

On tap at Ambulance, richly creamed mocha-bound full body (limited edition 2015 release) may not live up to its heady moniker, but the results are fine. Though lacking expectant bacon-greased surety and smoky maple molasses intrigue, nutty black chocolate thickness and roasted coffee bittering gain prominence with full-throttle luster. Sweet chestnut-hazelnut conflux and bitter walnut char receive minor candied maple glaze overridden by demanding mocha assault.

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