Not bold enough for a brusque pale ale despite IPA-like citric hop drive and inconspicuous earthen pining. Yet lagerheads in search of an off-dry moderate-to-medium-bodied upgrade will be pleased with rounded pale ale. Despite unwarranted herbal-floral astringency, its zesty lemon spritz, creamy caramel malting and distant nuttiness nearly save the day. But there’s a certain transparency forsaking the bittersweet citrus finish.

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