SCHWELMER BERNSTEIN January 1, 2009Beers A-Zvienna lagerJohn Fortunato Doughy amber lager with suspected Jewish handle receives plain matzoth bread punctuation tempered by rye-dried sesame-pumpernickel-tobacco wisp. At dankly sweet finish, chewy yeast, toasted barley, and dank honey embittered by belated hop sass.
SMUTTYNOSE PORTSMOUTH LAGER January 1, 2009Beers A-Zvienna lagerJohn Fortunato Bittersweet caramel luster dominates soft milky yeast flow of reliable copper-paled Vienna lager. Floral spiced-hop screed, distant toasted barley heed, and dried raisin sneak add depth. Reminiscent of Sugar Daddy candy bar and more complex than ordinary grain-based lagers.