Strong nickel-hazed rocky-headed yeast-speckled winter ale brings coriander and ‘grains of paradise’ to honeyed malt sinew. Peppery thyme-seasoned lemon-bruised souring and vinous grape tannins mingle with bittersweet orange-peach-cherry tartness, flaunting rum-soaked raisin thwack by gin-soaked 11% alcohol-whirred finish.

Fruity amber-reddish tan-headed Christmas seasonal sacrifices expectant cinnamon-nutmeg adjuncts in favor of thick berry-nut-grain mesh. Lingered dry-fruited tartness picks up spiced hop bitterness and alcohol-soaked acridity for delicately flowing, yet solid-bodied, ’00 winter celebrator.

Tiny bubbles float to glass rim ever so gently, as roasted malt sweetness, moderate nutmeg spicing, and boozy Scotch nose pervade caramel-hued ale. Muted fruit finish adds to the fun.

Bitterer but not better than usual holiday offerings, ‘06 ruby amber seasonal loads prune-soured cinnamon-nutmeg-gingerbread-allspice piquancy above weak brown ale-like nutty dryness, toasted hop astringency, teasing chicory dip, and ashy cinder parch. Dulled out pumpkin-pomegranate scamp fades to orange soufflé vamp. Needs better dimension and distinction.

Nebulous wintry retreat places thin metallic sheen above reticent brown sugared spices, slick crystal-caramel malting, and chalky cherry-raisin-fig wisp. Vegetal astringency saps tertiary tobacco, walnut, and Brazil nut illusions. Similarly bland 2010 version layered dried-out orange rind sourness above phenol cinnamon-coriander-nutmeg coarseness, abrupt brown-sugared Blackstrap molasses acridity, and mild chestnut-almond-hazelnut whim.

Peculair wintry ale brings expectant candi-sugared lacquer-like medicinal mouthfeel to less stylistic smoked wood chip groove calmly reinforcing green hop-embittered peppercorn fervor. Ashy abstruseness then coddles tertiary tobacco, lemongrass, and clove illusions clustering dry quince souring.

Heavily alcohol-fueled garnet-hued winter cheer gains barleywine insistence, butterscotch spicing and prune-dried raisin hint to syrupy coughdrop finish, but musty malt astringency denies its greatness.

Sweet barley-roasted mocha entry leads to drier chocolate-covered raisin finish, putting this closer to a porter. Flaked oats, instead of expectant nutmeg or cinnamon, contour peculiar full-bodied holiday ale. Barleywine-burgundy undertones add depth. Brewery defunct: 2008.

Ale Mary ‘full of grace’ for well-balanced red ale given sharp-hopped holiday spicing and full-bodied grain richness. Underlying berry ripeness, cherry tang, and cinnamon sweetness receive floral yeast flourish soured by soothing medicinal finish.

Bitter-spiced hop opening and musty dark fruit punctuation lead to moderate lacquered malt pungency. Berries entangle clove, overwhelming creamy sweetness inducing otherwise bitter finish. ’05 version placed savory apple-grapefruit ripeness above peppery hop bed and eternal alcohol bittering.

Zesty lemon-fizzed hop-spiced resonance infiltrates amber-clouded medium body. Grain-toasted mocha malt richness overcomes permeating bubbly fizz to some avail. Persistent oak bitterness tapers off slowly by creamy cocoa finish. But uncertain wintry appeal hurts chances.