THE BRUERY HOTTENROTHProfusely mouth-puckered beige-hazed yellow-glazed ‘tart wheat ale’ creates vinous Sauvignon Blanc or Belgian Gueuze feel (when not sweetened by raspberry and woodruff syrup). Sour green grape, Granny Smith apple, and unripe lemon fruiting reinforces wild yeast herbage and leathery barnyard funk. Grassy-bottomed horsehide, hay, and maize illusions breach tertiary tannic cherry tartness at tail end of light-bodied carbolic spritzer. Despite heightened brettanomyces level, acidic tendencies are kept in check.

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