On tap at Taphouse Grille – Wayne, chameleonic strong saison (7.8% ABV) blends advertised tangerine-peach tartness into wood-dried hop grouting and peppery herbal spicing, picking  up passive cologne muskiness. After a few sips, sweet banana bubblegum illusions come forward to contrast its deepening orange rind bittering. Desiccated wheat, rye and spelt grained spine wavers and a hint of lemongrass, perhaps, seeps beneath the busy medium body.

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