MONROE, NEW YORK

In a beige aluminum warehouse (with flat earthen stone-based storefront) at the Orange County township of Monroe, APEX BREWERY opened its doors October 2020. Operated by roller derby vets Rachel and David Holm, Apex quickly developed a dedicated local following.

A local homebrewer for well over a decade, David Holm concentrates on recurring small batch brews as well as sturdy one-offs and seltzers.

The glassed aquamarine-topped bar matches its reclaimed wide-plank wood frontage and bar backdrop while rear silver brew tanks hold the proprietary suds. Roller skate-wheeled tap handles at a splendid touch.

There are five black four-seat tables at the polyurethane cement-floored, gray-walled, high-ceilinged pub. An overhead door leads to the rustic benched back deck.

There were four well designed brews readied for my midday June ’22 initiation.

Stylistically bold pale ale, Star Pass, retained an off-dry orange, tangerine, clementine and grapefruit tang and recessive raspberry-passionfruit tartness given grassy hop astringency over delicate oats-flaked barley malts.

Limey bergamot orange hops contrasted light vanilla-creamed cereal graining for Brew Stachestrong, a pleasingly dry adjunct New England IPA.

Utilizing crystal clean Norwegian Kviek farmhouse yeast, hazy Mosaic-Citra-hopped IPA, Tropical Dad Joke, united mild yellow grapefruit bittering, zesty navel orange tanginess and candied pineapple tartness as light pine needling spread thru the tropical fruitedness.

Salted chocolate, toasted coconut, spiced toffee and mild hazelnut coffee reinforced fudgy Booty Block, a delectably bold dessert stout.