THREES AFTER DAWN KOLSCH

On tap at Ambulance, “bright,” crisp, enduring kolsch brings brisk white grape-juiced lemon zest to the fore as its lightly salted doughy bottom forms below the soft-watered mist. Delicate orange marmalade, curacao orange, grapefruit and pineapple illusions caress its lemondrop finish. The perfect kolsch has arrived.

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