On tap at Poor Henry’s, stylishly light alcoholic (7% ABV) strong ale lacks spicy holiday spirit its name implies. Instead, an Imperial Red Ale-like caramel fruiting leads the way as red grape, brown apple, peach, fig and plum illusions pick up a sharp hop spicing as well as toasted nut whim, resinous pine notions and earthen grape stem phenols. In the bottle: parched dried-fruited acridity, astringent hop tannins and crisp tobacco roast desiccate ginger-spiced burgundy, raisin, prune and fig illusions and wispy black cherry pureeing.

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