Monthly Archives: September 2010

RIVER HORSE HIPP-O LANTERN IMPERIAL PUMPKIN

Splendid sharp-hopped mulling spices bring autumnal seasoning to smashingly rich, creamy, full-bodied dessert beer (arguably as indispensable as Buffalo Bill’s Pumpkin Ale used to be). Ripened pumpkin theme envelops large cinnamon-nutmeg-allspice-gingerbread contingent and tertiary banana-bruised apple-candied black cherry tang. Syrupy medicinal thickness outlasts vegetal gourd sway at expansive pumpkin-spiced finish. 2012 version gained pumpkin pureed sweetness as lilting bourbon and red cherry nuances added further dimension. 2016 version contrasted brown-sugared pumpkin spicing with sharper lemondrop tartness (and earthen gourd remnant).

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COLD SPRING MOONLIGHT ALE

Enormous 32-ounce can brings tinny metallic derision to slick caramel malting and phenol-hopped acridity of understated, lackluster porter-bock mix. Despite boasting ‘glacial mineral water,’ crispness lacks. Obliging brown-sugared cocoa-powdered chocolate roast overrides ashen cola-walnut singe consuming astringent purple grape, prune, and cherry whimper, weakening to chalky mocha tartness. Slight barleywine lick detected at blah dried-fruit finish. Serve to less discriminating brown ale consumers.

BROWN’S WHISKEY BARREL AGED PORTER

Enormous whiskey-dried warmth muted by dark-roasted caramel malting and hop-charred oaken vanilla nicety. Shockingly low 5.7% alcohol makes presence felt as cherry jubilee, chocolate cake, and buttered cocoa illusions reach boozy bourbon finish. Nutty restraint softens coffee-burnt plum-anise latency. Perfect for softhearted slow-sipping snifter snobs as well as light porter aficionados.