On tap at Barcade, amiable golden-hued wild ale stays less frenzied than brewers’ Thing 1 and Confluence. Leathery citric-embittered barnyard acridity (typical of champagne-dried Belgian gueuze styling) spreads mouth-puckering brettanomyces souring all over tart lemon-juiced oaken cherry parch, piquant Granny Smith apple scruff, murky white grape esters and advertised dandelion-elderberry snip. Acetous white-wined raspberry vinaigrette rasp increases vinous vinegar vigor.

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