Unconventional copper-hazed African-styled brew reminiscent of Belgian-styled Ommegang Abbey Ale. Lofty 7% alcohol blear rears head above lively yeast, candied malts, and burnt ‘palmnuts.’ Grand Marnier waft consumes fresh cut apple, orange rind, and banana fruiting to dry-smoked white pepper finish. Only its fuzzy carbolic aridity holds this back.
All posts by John Fortunato
(STEENBERGE) LEUTE BOKBIER
Bold Belgian bock brings spiced hop frisk to musty orange peel theme as tannic grape tartness and dry cider pucker settle above wood-soaked cherry finish. Minor acidity haunts ripe raisin prudence, sugared fig frugality, and creamy mocha restraint.
(STEENBERGE) CHERISH RASPBERRY LAMBIC
Mellow pink-headed ruby-bodied ‘malternative’ betters soda pop or lame wine cooler. Fulsome raspberry signature assaults champagne nose and tutti-frutti tongue. Supportive peach, tangerine, and red cherry tartness perks up sour cranberry-mulberry-strawberry ransom to bittersweet candi-sugared raspberry finish.
(STEENBERGE) CHERISH PEACH LAMBIC
Overt sweet peach aroma and juicy peach palate linger through tropical nectar-tangerine-apricot punch stabilizing dry malted hop fizz for admirable alternative to Peach Snapple.
(STEENBERGE) BRUEGEL AMBER ALE
Nearly vapid in its dryly diacetyl light-bodied appeal and closer to a daintily citric White Ale, opaque burnt sienna-hued sedation hides muted orange-bruised apricot-grapefruit subtlety beneath oncoming prune-fig prominence. Confounding carbolic fizz reduces floral hop tenacity and prickly white-peppered holiday spicing (coriander-allspice-cinnamon) as enormous head and cake-like Brussels lace coat glass.
(STEENBERGE) BORNEM GULDEN DRAAK ALE
Robust white-bottled prune-clouded ale gains candied brandy charm above dried-fruited chocolate-soured spicing. Concentrated carbonation grips the tongue, allowing clove-allspice adjuncts to seduce. On tap, ripe apple, red grape, and raisin-fig nuances reinforce alcohol-soaked malts.
(STEENBERGE) BORNEM AUGUSTIJN ALE
In wide-mouth bottle, fluffy-headed light body places wheat honeyed sweetness above wafting citrus tartness and creamy caramel malting. Hushed apricot, pear, and green apple illusions receive mild spicing. Foamy carbonation nearly wipes away pilsner-like grain blend and cocky Bavarian-style luster. Indistinct finish and ill-defined adjuncts spoil the party.
(STEENBERGE) BIERE DU BOUCANIER GOLDEN ALE
Despite soft yellow body, delicate silken flow, and ransacked 11% alcohol deluge, lusty orange-bruised cherry-pineapple-peach tang and hop-fueled black-peppered basil-thyme sharpness juxtapose prim clove-coriander spicing. Minor acidity dispels candied malt sweetness, dry quince stint, and white rum hint.
STEENBRUGGE TRIPEL BLONDE ALE
Regal billowy-headed blonde (brewed in Belgian Abbey) features Old World herbal gruut influence and rampant clumps of Brussels lace. Sharp grain-malted presence, aromatic creme de cocoa keepsake, and thickened yeast-candied butterscotch resonation bring intial attention. Recoiling barleywine sweetness hides chocolate subtleties until strong whiskey-licked medicinal finish takes over. Creamy texture loses out to overriding fuzzy carbolic fizz, sucking out its essence. Perhaps a spicy kick in the ‘grain’ would increase resiliency.
STEENBRUGGE DUBBEL BRUIN BIERE
Strange honeyed rice aroma consumes auburn-hued middleweight just a step down from finer, nuttier brown ales. Sedate carbonation becalms wheat wine compulsion, but deeper barley-roasted spice hop resilience needed to rank higher.
STEEL RESERVE LAGER
8.1% alcohol burn may put wide-mouth bottled billowy-headed pale lager in oblivious malt liquor category for U.S. consumption. Watery, soft, and soapy with zesty hop flow and sweet malt backdrop obstructed by cloy yeast stickiness. This is some ugly stuff. Swish around cheeks for bland mouthwash appeal.
(STEEL) HOWLING MONKEY BLACK & TAN
In wide-mouth bottle, relaxing Black & Tan leans towards a dirty brown ale due to soft fizzy hopped nose, pleasantly bland chocolate sweetness, and lingered nuttiness. Easy to get bored with before fully consumed, as lager lightness obstructs mocha stout tendencies.