On tap at Ambulance, wonderful dry-hopped Imperial India Pale Ale with a ‘dollop of honey’ spreads its complexities all over the place. Floral grapefruit-peeled orange tang, zesty lemon briskness and sticky pine resin of a sharp-toned IPA spark the front end while dried-fruited apricot, plum and fig illusions plus tertiary pineapple-peach-tangerine snips soak into the dewy earthen mustiness ransacked by rummy vodka-licked Scotch malt assertiveness (leaving a boozy alcohol astringency upon the expansive finish).

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