Category Archives: United States Brewpubs

TWO ROADS BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs,

STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT

Becoming the Constitution State’s biggest brewery at birth, TWO ROADS BREWING COMPANY occupies a mammoth red brick warehouse previously housing metal factory, US Baird. Just off Route 95 between New Haven and Bridgeport, Two Road’s impressive 100-barrel system bottles, cans and kegs four original staples and a host of seasonals, specialties and one-offs also served at the spacious 3,000 square foot oval-shaped bar up the stairs from the rustic brown-wooded right side entrance.

Headed by renowned Southampton brewer (and former New England Brewing associate) Phil Markowski, and helped along by local assistant brewer, John Rehm, the master craftsmen have created some well-balanced recipes that push the limits without losing focus. Four banners hanging over the centralized two-storey brew tanks sport the names of each signature beer conveniently available on tap for all to sample alongside light snacks. By 2015, two food trucks, a picnic area, growler station, hop yard shed and beer-accessory shop had been added to the expansive property.

A month after celebrating their long-awaited December 18th soft opening, I sojourned to this renovated landmark on a wintry January ’13 afternoon. Sitting next to the keg handles under long pendulum lights, I dig into the fine samples (fully reviewed at Beer Index) while classic rock echoes thru the crowded draught room.

My session begins with perfectly pungent Ol’ Factory Pils, a musky German-styled pilsner with lemon-candied tartness draping resinous grain-husked earthiness, dry-hopped bitterness and toasted rye malting.

Moving forward to a slightly more complex offering, Belgian candi-sugared Workers Comp Saison gained a tangy tropical fruiting above flaked rye, dried oats and straw wheat. White-peppered pineapple, banana, mango, peach and passion fruit illusions increase intensity.

Then, two contrasting India Pale Ales take center stage. For lighter thirsts, Honeyspot Road White IPA brings lemon zest, lemon curry and marmalade tones to white-peppered floral spicing.

Seasoned hopheads will prefer briskly assertive Road 2 Ruin Double IPA, a ‘hop-centric’ full body layering ample yellow grapefruit rind bittering above woody Cascade hop acridity. Ancillary apricot, pineapple, mango and tangerine fruiting deepens the attack.

On tap during the holiday season, a limited edition Biere De Garde simply named Holiday Ale, maintained an easygoing soothe (but drifted a tad from its traditional French farmhouse styling). Crystal-malted cinnamon toast, spiced tea, ginger and vanilla illusions battled for ground against a backend alcohol burn.

An instant success thanks in part to its highly accessible location, Two Roads’ lofty 100,000 square foot brewery has quickly expanded Connecticut’s beer-friendly landscape.

Following Boston trip, March ’21, revisited Two Roads to consume three newish sour-leaning fruit ales and one offshoot rye-aged stout.

Two totally tart ‘Tanker Truck’ kettle-soured ales led off, each featuring a salty lemon-limed Seltzer dryness. Passionfruit Gose let acidic citrus salinity wash over rhubarb-licked passionfruit tartness.

Meanwhile, Clementine Gose indulged lemon-peeled clementine salting with fizzy tangerine-pineapple snips.

Easygoing sour wheat ale, Peach Jam, left spritzy peach tartness in the dust as lemony hibiscus salting approached.

Mellowly creamed coffee-roasted whiskey tones topped Espressway Rye Barrel Aged Stout, a dryer variant with milked espresso tones and sugared maple oats softly punctuating its bourbonized rye finish.

www.tworoadsbrewing.com

TIRED HANDS BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs,
   Tired Hands Brewing Company - Absolute Beer
ARDMORE, PENNSYLVANIA
After taking a three-hour break following Farmer’s Cabinet perusal, we head out on a chilly winter’s eve, December ’12, to the sleepy village of Ardmore (ten minutes west of Philly) to initially visit well regarded TIRED HANDS BREWING COMPANY. Open for business in June, this cozy two-story red-bricked pub is located just a few steps from the rustic downtown area.
An impressive array of mostly dry-hopped saisons, lagers and pale ales with boundless complexities are available, yet only two remain staples thus far. The remainder are high quality one-off limited edition elixirs experienced brewer Jean Broillet (originally from West Chester’s Iron Hill and Weyerbacher) concocted for the short term but hopefully will revisit in the future.
Packed to the hilt on this Sunday evening, we grab a few seats next to the eight tap-handled fountain at the right side elongated bar. Across the 15-stooled bar are four left side tables along the green window-shuttered maroon wall. A small Sunfire heater cooks up a limited food menu featuring fresh breads, homemade dill pickles, cured meats and cheeses from local farmsteads. Bronze fermentation tanks located at the rear serve Broillet’s imaginative creations.
A crowded second floor with 12 dining tables, V-shaped bar and stairwell-sided food menu perfectly suits the young families, partygoers and businessmen that gather here during the weekdays. Tonight, many preppy post-collegiates and local denizens of every stripe stop by for dinner or to fill up growlers on the go.
Both Tired Hands staples prove to be fruitful successes and were poured by enlightened assistant brewer, Colin “Magick Man” Mc Fadden, a self-proclaimed Renaissance man with steep beer knowledge.
Elegant Hop Hands Pale Ale brings zesty citric-spiced crystal malting to the fore, as grassy-hopped lemon meringue, yellow grapefruit, kiwi, pineapple and marmalade illusions get backed firmly by peated minerality. Not far removed from New York’s Empire Cream Ale, its delightful soft-bodied warmth and creamy eggshell head will please light thirsts as well as heartier palates.
Dried-fruited Farm Hands Four Grain Saison regaled brisk orange rind bittering and bruised lemon-rotted sourness with barnyard-like earthen graining.
The Clash’s fiery “Spanish Bombs” plays loudly in the background as three more rounded saisons pique my interest. Motueta -Single Hop Saison kept its dry-hopped herbaceous florality, lemon-puckered grapefruit souring and earthen white peppering above wood-parched hop bitterness. Mocha-bound Yes Yes Yes Killing The Ego Dark Saison seared beechwood-smoked habanero peppering into maple syrupy Ecuadorian cocoa nibs, dark chocolate and powdered cocoa notes.
Better still, sour brettanomyces-funked Domo Black Rye Saison plastered puckered lemon seed tartness onto vinous white grape tannins as well as stove-burnt coffee and peanut-shelled walnut above molasses rye breading.
Two stylishly differentiated lagers stood out as well. Light-bodied yellow-paled California Uber Helles Hoppy Lager seeped tangy lemon, grapefruit, orange, apricot and kumquat fruiting into juniper hop bitterness.
On the dark side, Deep Sleep Black Winter Lager placed wood-charred dark-roasted graining and pine-needled bittering atop nutty dark chocolate-y cocoa nibs.
Another worthy offering, Falco’s Mirrored Flight IPA contrasted floral grapefruit-peeled orange rind, lemon zest, peach and pineapple tropicalia and mild bark-dried hops against creamy crystal malts.
Hooked on making well-ranged small batch beers for an increasingly mesmerized audience, Tired Hands truly is an outstanding cafe-styled pub in the laid-back suburbs of west Philly.

ROUND GUY BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs,

LANSDALE, PENNSYLVANIA

On a dangerously snowy Saturday at noon, December ’12, my wife and I leave Jersey and venture South towards Philly. Before landing there, we stop by Lansdale, a quaint industrial town 25 miles northwest of Philadelphia that houses ROUND GUY BREWING COMPANY. Owned and operated by a Penn State and Notre Dame grad, the tap room opened for business in June.

Located at a diminutive art space just off Main Street behind a pretzel place, the pale blue-walled boutique pub (with dramatic ebony ceiling) keeps it simple with a light food menu, sofa lounge, popcorn machine, TouchTone jukebox, electric dartboard, small TV and easygoing sessionable ales.

Sitting at the bar directly in front of the tap handles, we order the bratwurst (cooked with Doppelbock), Grilled Ham & Cheese with hot-peppered provolone and The Bird (turkey, cheddar, bacon and Ranch dressing on sourdough bread). These menu items go fine with the lighter selections on the beer menu above the wood bar.

“We had been corporate and were both tired of our jobs,” PSU grad Rich Diliberto explains as my samples get poured. “We wanted to try something different. I called Scott (Rudich) one night and said we should start a bar or a band. Since we didn’t play any instruments, we decided to open a brewery. A few weeks later we got a home brew kit. Our second batch won first prize for an Octoberfest. Our stout even won a local contest.”

Getting the ball rolling by 2011,  Diliberto and Rudich waited for permit approval while perfecting their craft further, leading to a host of stylistically diverse libations.

“I’m a big fan of German lagers,” Diliberto says before proving his case with Round Guy Doppelbock. Its peated dewy earthiness and plum-sugared toffee malting allow wintry nutmeg-cinnamon-coriander spicing to emerge alongside whiskey-dabbed black cherry, raisin and date illusions (as well as chestnut, pine nut and praline).

At this point, Buffalo native Rudich chimes in as I down the beige-hazed, lemon-puckered, limestone-salted, white wine-soured Berliner Weisster (a lactic brettanomyces-affected light body with dry barnyard funk that really shines when raspberry or woodruff syrup gets added).

The Golden Domer recalls, “My dad drank Old Milwaukee and Piels. We lived a few minutes from Canada and drank lots of Molson and Labatts, the better Canadian versions with a more challenging flavor. The first legitimate 6-pack I bought was Pete’s Wicked Ale. Though the beer of choice at college was Miller Red Dog.”

Getting into Belgians and Guinness, the first beer that really ‘wowed’ Rudich was Theakston Old Peciulier, followed quickly by Morland Old Speckled Hen. Currently, he’s trying to keep up with the demand for his own Pennsylvania suds.

Three soft-toned Belgian stylings capture my attention at this point. First, there was Buh Nanan Hammack Saison, with its saltine-crackered banana-clove entry, white-peppered lemon pucker and light alcohol burn.

Next, candi-sugared Chubby Bob Dubbel brought subtle plum-dried banana sweetness to its honeyed wheat base. 

Moisson Saison, a mellow cask ale, offered Citra-hopped orange souring to tart lemon-limed Granny Smith apple, cherry and mango illusions (as fusel alcohol notes embitter the backend).

Though the cocoa-powdered cherry-tart Chocolate Pooch just kicked, bittersweet Fuzzy Muttness Stout filled the gap for dark ale lovers with its black chocolate-sweetened dark toffee entry, oats-charred coffee roast and dry rye malting as well as tertiary bourbon, molasses, vanilla and licorice dabs.

Dry India Pale Ale fruiting, resinous hop-charred grains and chocolate malts enveloped Alpha Black Back, a Black IPA deepened by Blackstrap molasses, licorice and currant undertones.

Finally, as the food finished and the snow continued to fall, I got around to possibly the most approachable ale on tap. Soft-toned Mini-Bob Belgian Pale retained a black-peppered earthen dewiness and rye-spiced dried fruiting.

A milk stout and new porter are being brewed for January as well as an apple brandy barrel-aged saison and rum-barreled IPA.

Tired Hands, another fascinating 2012 find located 25 miles South, may craft richer elixirs, in general, but those looking for milder moderations may lean towards Round Guys.

ww.roundguysbrewery.com

BEER’D BREWING COMPANY – STONINGTON

United States Brewpubs,

STONINGTON, CONNECTICUT

Arriving a bit early for Saturday’s 1 PM pouring at BEER’D, I stroll around the old storage and arts warehouse this new 3-barrel brewery in Connecticut’s seafaring Stonington calls home. Amongst the art galleries and photography studios at the Velvet Mill, Beer’d is the pride of owner-operator Aaren Simoncini, a Rochester Institute of Technology grad whose boutique nanobrewery opened belatedly due to the loss of electricity during Hurricane Sandy. Despite the historic storm’s northeast devastation, Beer’d began serving the local community by mid-November 2012. Upon my mid-December visit, three flagship beers are out strictly because of the storm’s impact.

Starting as a homebrewer, Simoncini (an accountant by day) thought about getting a loan for a larger brewing setup, but decided to keep his ambitions small, settling at this rustic white-walled, gray-floored space for the time being.

A few couples (one with a German Shepherd) and a single male drop by for growler refills while the courteous Simoncini pours me some samples. My wife and daughter head down the hall to a furniture restoration shop as I grab my first sips.

Appealingly casual chartreuse-hazed Whisker’d Wit did a fine job emulating the bright fruited Belgian style, despite purposely leaving out coriander (a key ingredient). A dainty candi-sugared curacao orange peel theme spread across its hop-spiced lemon zest, carbolic Gose-like salting and wheat-honeyed Munich malting. Citric tangerine, navel orange and clementine undertones and a wavering banana sweetness filled out the sourdough back end.

When Beer’d gets rolling full strength, other flagship beers to look for include Midnight Oil Oatmeal Stout and Anomaly Black IPA. There is a Belgian Tripel planned as well.

Anyway… my friend Dennis sojourned to Beer’d during April ’13 and got two more delectable libations. Coarsely rich Beer’d American Brown Ale tossed dark-roasted coffee bittering at dry hop-charred earthen peat, peanut-shelled walnut, Blackstrap molasses and lemon-peeled souring. Gaining acceptance by more robust thirsts, this fine offering still took a backseat to one of the best Imperial India Pale Ales in New England.

Crisply fresh Beer’d Epiphany Double IPA brought brisk piney citrus brightness to soft-watered floral spicing in a totally seamless manner. Juicy pink grapefruit, navel orange, blood orange and tangerine fruiting led the way for this truly approachable classic.

During quick June ’13 stopover, picked up growler of Beer’d Realization Double IPA, a distinct full-bodied charmer with succinct orange-peeled grapefruit bitterness lacquering mineral-grained piney hop bitterness as well as brisk red apple, brown pear, tangerine, pineapple and plum illusions.  

Found two more incredible Imperial India Pale Ales while stopping by for half-hour, March ’14. Triumphant hophead delight, Beer’d Vegemite Sandwich DIPA, hid its massive 9.5% alcohol whir below delicious yellow grapefruit-peeled pineapple tang and bitter wood-dried juniper hop bite. Tertiary lemon rind, navel orange, clementine and lime illusions got sweetened by sugary crystal malts.

Utilizing the same sunny citrus template, the equally compelling Dogs & Boats DIPA gained a tropical assertion to go alongside its lusty yellow grapefruit aromatics and candied pineapple-orange-berry insistence. Crisply clean-watered Citra/ Mosaic hop influence brings springtime freshness to the brute citric force.

Also bought growler of cocoa-chalked Midnight Oil Oatmeal Stout, a solid-bodied dark ale with oats-charred brown chocolate malting and dark-roasted hops inundating dry burgundy wining, coffee-oiled bittering, burnt toast acridity and sour soy snips.

www.beerdbrewing.com

GRISWOLD INN

United States Brewpubs,

ESSEX, CONNECTICUT

In rustic seafaring village, Essex, a stones-throw from the marina, lies historic GRISWOLD INN. Its colonial-styled white-painted exterior and forest green shutters bring a Classical provincial appeal to this landmark 1776-built restaurant-hotel.

Old wood furnishings and dozens of framed nautical photographs line the multi-room facility where several private Christmastime parties take hold this Friday afternoon in mid-December ’12. My wife and I settle behind the Tap Room in the caliginous dining area to enjoy hummus and clam chowder with Griswold Inn’s one and only perfectly centrist beer.

Not sure who truly brews Griswold’s proprietary Revolutionary Ale, but its pleasant red-orange fruit spicing and creamy honey-roasted caramel malting contrast the wispy vegetal-tinged sea-salted hop bite in a very demure manner.  

For wine lovers, several worthy pinot grigios, pinot noirs, Chardonnays, Merlots and Sauvignons are available. Enjoy the Essex Steam Train and Riverboat when in town as well.

www.griswoldinn.com

HOPCAT

BEER PUB, United States Brewpubs,

HopCat - Grand Rapids Restaurant - Grand Rapids, MI | OpenTable

GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN

In the heart of Grand Rapids at the first floor of a surplus box warehouse just down the street from the newly renovated Grand Rapids Brewing Company lies the absolutely essential HOPCAT. Serving 48 revolving tapped beers along with a phenomenal bottled and canned selection, not to mention their own worthy craft brews, this unassuming midwest watering hole may be America’s best brewpub.

As Grand Rapids quickly becomes one of Michigan’s greatest cities for finding a large assortment of fascinating local, national and international beers, this midsized corner saloon certainly leads the way. Open for business in 2009, Hopcat will impress even the snottiest beer enthusiasts.

Visited November ’12 with long-time friend, Paul Garone, and his new pug puppy, Spanky, we hung out at the left side enclosed porch (with four community tables, porch furniture and sconce lights) to try three on-site brews over a late Friday night dinner.

As we enter from the bluegreen exterior, the gorgeous mahogany bar is packed as the Doors wondrous “Light My Fire” blasts above the noisy din. Sidled by opposing TV’s, the bar’s set up across left side community tables separated by mid-room stool seating. Brew tanks in the rear ready three to six in-house beers at any given time.

For a more intimate atmosphere, an upstairs lounge with couches, tables and food service is available for the lunch and dinner crowd and accessible by climbing the rustic yellow-walled stairwell where Jazz posters, a Gueuze Kriek Lambic poster, Beck’s Beer emblem and Mort Subite beer tray decorate the walls across overhead shelves full of vintage beer bottles.

As I settle into a moist talapia sandwich, my buddy Paul delights in the fish ‘n chips while sitting on the porch. Our very attentive waitress Renee relays stories about Hopcat and its first-class beers while advising us on cheap hotels and craft beer stores.

For an opening salvo, Hoppopotamus American IPA plies a tropical fruit punch to its peppery floral-pined juniper hop bite. Brisk orange, lemon and grapefruit peel bittering securely contrasts lively peach, pineapple, mango and quince ephemera above sugary wheat-cracked crystal malting to its salty bottom.

MGMT plays on the stereo as I dip into Hopcat Breadwinner ESB, where wood-lacquered floral-perfumed hops and orange-oiled citric niceties recede to a dry rye malt setting.

For an after dinner relaxer, Hopcat American Porter with Ghost Chilis truly sufficed. Its backend chili pepper burn worked its way through hop-charred black coffee, oats-flaked dark chocolate and pureed black cherry illusions.

A must-go destination spot for all brew mongers, Hopcat never fails to deliver quality libations. Just take a look at the copious amount of unique Michigan-based brews on tap during my initial visit:

Local hand pulled draughts included Arcadia Cannonball Gold, Brewery Vivant Big Red Coq, Founders Porter, Michigan Sunshine and Short’s Kind Ale.

Regular stateside draughts included Arcadia Hop Mouth Pale Ale and Warcraft Black IPA, Atwater Grand Circus IPA, Bell’s Lager Of The Lakes and Oarsman, Hideout Helles Bock, Jolly Pumpkin Bam Bier and ESB Bam, Odd Sides Citra Pale Ale, Perrin Ale, Right Brain Shadow Watcher Stout and Saugatuck Bonfire Brown Ale as well as multiple selections from Short’s (The Curl; Good Human; Woodmaster; Huma Lupa Liscous; Liberator; Black Cherry Porter; The Wizard; Uncle Steve’s Irish Stout; Cup A Joe Coffee Cream Stout) and New Holland (15th Anniversary Ale; Beehive Triple; Farmhouse Hatter; Four Witches; Black Tulip).  Fascinating!

www.hopcatgr.com

BREWERY VIVANT

United States Brewpubs,

GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN

Inside an ivy-vined red brick church (with green trim) on Cherry Street at the outskirts of Grand Rapids, Belgian-inspired BREWERY VIVANT fits perfectly within its quaint neighborhood. Open since December 2010, this sacrilicious stain-glassed sanctuary with a 20-barrel system serves not only a wide variety of in-house tapped beers but also a bunch of canned versions (for sale on-site or at local beer stores).

Accessing the chapel entrance, my friend Paul and I reach the 12-seat altar bar through a promotional lobby (where canned beers, clothing and ephemera are sold). Several rustic community tables, hanging lanterns and corner booths decorate the cozy oak-framed cathedral.

A Belgian flag hangs from the front balcony and three more community tables and other furnishings adorn the outdoor beer garden. Rooster-laden wood boards provide beer menus and the projection screen at the front wall shows Michigan State football at noon this brisk Saturday in November ’12.

Our friendly hostess leads us to the altar to take our food order. We try the deliciously humungous pretzel-bunned 8-ounce tenderloin burgers (with caramelized onions and bacon). Soon after, attentive bartender Shawn Hudson brings me the five in-house beers I couldn’t buy in cans for the ride back to Jersey.

Head brewer Jacob Derylo, formerly of famed New Holland Brewery, delivers some stylishly hybridized brews, many of which rely on citric soured tendencies this initial autumn visit.

For a soft-toned starter, Wit Knight offered fresh-watered lemondrop souring over orange-oiled wisps.

Whiskey-soured 2nd Annual Sgt. Peppercorn Rye brings lemon-pitted orange rind bittering to caramelized rye malting and subdued peppercorn spicing.

Colliding a sour ale with a harvest ale, Grand Pumpkin allows lemon-rotted souring to overwhelm vegetal pumpkin spicing, white-wined green grape esters and tealeaf earthiness.

Lightly beechwood-smoked Ancho Rauchbier places its soothingly soured citric mantra across ancho-peppered mocha and peanut-shelled soapstone.

Smoothly aggressive Rye Porter lets pumpernickel-rye breading infiltrate tobacco-roasted chocolate nuttiness and peanut-skinned dry coffee undertones.

And mocha-bound Organic Brown Ale sidles cacao-seeded stove burnt coffee notes next to walnut-charred hop oils.

In the Beer Index, find Brewery Vivant’s Big Red Coq, Escoffier Bretta Ale, Farm Hand French Farmhouse Ale, Solitude Abbey, Triomphe Belgian IPA and Zaison Imperial Saison.

www.breweryvivant.com

NEWBURGH BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs,
Image result for newburgh brewing company
NEWBURGH, NEW YORK
Located in a spacious 19th century fourth floor loft across from historical Washington Headquarters at a former box company, NEWBURGH BREWING COMPANY opened April 2012. Selling only tap and keg beer for now, this Newburgh-situated brewhouse also serves fabulous cuisine to the local minions that’ve called this rustic place home.
Large jalacy windows provide beautiful Hudson River views from three sides. Salvaged furniture, exposed ducts, plank floors, old beams, a ping pong table, two vintage arcade games and a lathe table near the wide bar fill out the cavernous warehouse.
On a sunny afternoon in October 2012, my wife and I grab a seat at one of the dozen German-style community tables to try former Brooklyn Brewer zymurgist Chris Basso’s reliably sessionable libations. Basso’s four staples include light-bodied Cream Ale, a dry wheat-husked easygoer gathering hay-horsehide earthiness, popcorn buttering and vegetal herbage.
Then there’s herbaceous farmhouse-styled Saison, a sweet ‘n sour yellow-fruited Belgian knockoff with dried rye-oats backing its lemony white grape and orange briskness as well as white-peppered lemongrass, basil, oregano, rosemary and clove spicing.
On the dark side were beechwood-charred Peat Smoked Stout (a traditional Irish dry body with German rauchbier-like wood-burnt chocolate malting, coffee bean roasting and light Band-aid waft) and rich English-styled Brown Ale (with its stove-burnt coffee overtones, hazelnut chocolate mellowing, Blackstrap molasses bittering and black-breaded walnut char).
Basso’s “Brew with Heart Series” included New Burton IPA, a traditional English-styled medium body welcoming peppered orange-yellow fruiting to mild raw-honeyed bitterness. Its perfumed lemon, peach, pineapple and quince tones maintained a well-rounded fruiting.
Next up, Sterk Aal van Hoodie Belgian Strong Ale provided a lemony candi-sugared banana-clove-coriander flux above creamy honey-spiced malts and a subtle alcohol bite.
Then, dry-hopped Bitter English retained a crisp yellow-fruited bark-dried promenade, musky black tea bittering and wood-parched earthen minerality.
Two women a few tables over enjoyed Von Stuben’s Gose, a citric-fizzed Radler-like German wheat beer with soft-tongued briny salting, lemon zest, limey orange souring and withered coriander tinge.
While consuming the fine beer offerings, we munched on soft pretzels (with sweet and spicy mustard), a powder-sugared liege-style waffle and butternut squash apple soup.
A few weeks later, I hit Newburgh Brewing for dinner with my wife, son Christopher, pal Dennis and his wife, Dee Dee. My wife enjoyed the Artisan Grilled Cheese (with smoked bacon, caramelized onions and dijon mustard) alongside a Cream Ale and Christopher grabbed the bratwurst with sauerkraut while Dennis and I tackled two orders of delicious garlic-herbed Saison mussels.
Train horns blasted in the background as I began sipping the newly crafted Menditto-Madura 2012 Harvest Ale. Its leafy hop spicing endured above lemon rind bittering and buttered French breading (recalling Cream Ale’s earthy graining).
Anyone who has a hankering for approachable beers with a slight kick (despite the low alcohol) should get their butt to Newburgh and get a few highly quaffable brews.
During April ’13, tried extremely rich Newburgh Conspiracy, with its lactic maltose sugaring, hazelnut-oiled pine sapping, burnt caramel sweetness and mild black cherry souring blanketed by gooey anise directly above oats-toasted cedar char.
On tap at Growler & Gill, hybridized Belgian pale ale, Newburgh Squashtoberfest, brought baked butternut squash restraint to salty pumpkin-seeded rye spicing, picking up dried orange-fig nuances as well as acrid acetone snip.
On tap at Shepherd & Knucklehead, hybridized Baltic porter, Newburgh Winter Spruce Porter brought minty dark-roasted chocolate malting to evergreen–fresh piney spruce tips, picking up resinous-hopped pine nut, basil, sage and cinnamon snips.
On tap at Shoreline Beverage, hybridized white wine-soured dry body, Niagara Magnanini Tripel, let musty green grape esters (from local Magnanini Winery) and raw-honeyed yellow fruiting seep thru barnyard-desiccated brettanomyces yeast, affecting faded white-peppered apricot-peach-apple tartness as well as distant cotton-candied bubblegum sweetness.
On tap at Copper Mine, hybridized doppelbock/ dubbel Doppio Doppelbock worked chestnut into sour yellow-fruited tartness and peaty pale malt soiling. Lemon-peeled dried fig and white grape nuances waver.
On tap at Andy’s Corner Bar, mild Rodeo Wild Sour brought delicate pinot-like white wine vinegaring to limey lemon zest tingle as brettanomyces-affected saison yeast enhanced tart citric finish.

GREY SAIL BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs,

WESTERLY, RHODE ISLAND

Tucked away in a rustic industrial section at an old red brick warehouse that served as a macaroni packager ’til World War II and a Post Office thereafter, GREY SAIL BREWING COMPANY came into existence November 11, 2011 (following a 2010 flood that wiped out Napa Auto Parts). Making consistent midrange beers for mainstream and highbrow drinkers alike, the Connecticut-bordered Rhode Island brewery hopes to do 1,200 barrels per year.

Owned by passionate home brewing enthusiast, Alan Brinton, and his hands-on Jersey-bred wife, Jennifer, a fruit and pumpkin ale fan, Grey Sail has gained the attention of the li’l Ocean State with its rock solid selections.

At the front windowed tasting room, brewer Josh Letourneau (former Mayflower associate) graciously poured Grey Sail’s best-known suds for me, August 2012. Adorned by a beautiful brewroom mural, the oak-floored space has a cozy living room feel backed by insulated silver kettles and thousands of empty cans readied for filling.

Much like nearby Connecticut competitor, New England Brewery, Letourneau prefers cans over bottles. A huge fan of Maine-based Allagash White and Belgium’s Wittekerk Wit, his brews ‘play well into the surrounding coastal beach area.’

Letourneau claims, “Cans are better for packaging. There’s zero light exposure and caps on bottles will allow oxygen ingress over time. Plus, freight costs are lower and recyclability is easier. Also, the artwork envelops the whole can.”

Though I’d miss his darkest offering, Leaning Chimney Smoked Porter, two easygoing year-round offerings, one neat Belgian-styled knockoff, a surefire autumnal seasonal and a trusty bitter proved to be one nifty step beyond stylistic parameters on tap.

The highly approachable fare included scintillating lightweight, Flagship Ale, a winning cream ale with a misty Long Island Sound crispness. Its silken pale-caramel malting, soft citric-hopped bittering, recessive lemony orange spritz and honeyed wheat base reached the salty bottom with casual aplomb.

Equally impressive, medium-bodied IPA crossover, Flying Jenny Extra Pale Ale placed orange-peeled grapefruit pith bittering above bark-dried Columbus hops and fruited Cascade hops, finishing with a sassy lemon-seeded twinge. (Canned versions are reviewed in the Beer Index).

Summery pleasantry, Hazy Day Belgian Wit, spliced softly-spiced lemony orange peel bittering with sugary crystal malts to its unmalted white wheat base, picking up a slight juniper boozing at its delicate citrus finish.

Since September’s right around the corner, Letourneau brought out busy fall seasonal, Fest, to close out my initial visit. Its autumnal foliage and leafy Noble hops set the stage for orange-oiled apple-peach-pumpkin fruiting, caramel-roasted Vienna malting and honeyed tea sedation.

www.greysailbrewing.com

TURKEY HILL BREWING COMPANY

United States Brewpubs,

Photos of Turkey Hill Brewing Co Pub & Grille, Bloomsburg  Turkey Hill Brewing Company - Google+

BLOOMSBURG, PENNSYLVANIA

In a rustic rural outpost two miles from downtown Bloomsburg (home of Marley’s Brewery & Grille) just off Route 80’s Exit 236 lies TURKEY HILL BREWING COMPANY, a freestanding A-framed watering hole affiliated with The Inn at Turkey Hill and opened for business April 2011. Visited July 2012, this natural weathered wood stable “sitting atop the footprint of an English barn originally erected in 1839” served a diverse range of brews and worthy food items to nearby Bloomsburg University students and a host of local dinnertime businessmen.

Entering through a brown-wooded side door entrance next to a small patio, Turkey Hill’s windowed brew tanks are set up across the hall from a ground level concrete-floored catacomb-like cafe where an acoustic singer entertained patrons seated at the rear bar or several stooled tables.

Upstairs, a small private lounge leads to an ample wood-furnished, tan-walled open space with horseshoe coat hangers and various farmhouse photos. The eight-seated bar is packed for the Fourth Of July as two TV’s show the Yankee game and pre-Olympics fodder. We sit at a nearby table and order food to go alongside brewer Donny Abraczinkas’ stylistically robust fare.

I ate the plentiful Shroomer Angus Burger (featuring mushrooms, roasted garlic, caramelized onions, provolone cheese on a Kaiser roll) while my wife chomped on the busy Mediterranean Pizza (gathering squash, feta cheese and mozzerella atop local grained dough).

Though popular Journeyman IPA was out, each of the six four-ounce samples on the wooden tray and both of the fruity summer seasonals served pint-size more than sufficed.

At the lighter end, tart lemony orange-fronted, dry hop-spiced Barn Dance Blonde and caramel-soured, orange-desiccated, fig-sugared, earthen-backed New Whirrled Vienna Lager retained mild hop bittering.

A brisk IPA-like woody fruited bittering punctuated Revelation Pale Ale, the clear favorite today. Its lacquered apple, grapefruit, pineapple, apricot, mango and kiwi fruiting regaled brusque juniper hop bitterness, maintaining tremendous body and character.

Belgian yeast-candied Oliver’s Twisted Belgian Pale Ale placed peppery dry-hop spicing against sticky anise, sugared fig and raw chocolate while English-styled Samuel Bloom Brown Ale tossed lightly-roasted hops beside walnut-charred bittering.

Dark ale hailers will appreciate Iron Street Porter, a coffee-roasted, chocolate-soured, black tea-deepened bitter with ashen hop char.

For dessert, soapy apricot-lacquered, peach-toned, wheat-crackered Urban Abbey Apricot Wheat took a backseat to easygoing lighter-bodied Raspberry Wheat (with its sweet and sour raspberry rasp climbing above the honeyed wheat spine as well as ancillary red apple, strawberry and cranberry dollops).

Sweet-toothed brethren should enjoy Brennan Porter-Stout Float (made with Brennan’s vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate sauce).

www.turkeyhillbrewing.com

CITY STEAM BREWERY

United States Brewpubs,

Image result for city steam brewery hartford

HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT

Located at the Marriott Hotel in downtown Hartford, CITY STEAM BREWERY (closed December ’24) may be the most versatile New England gastropub. On an overnight May ’12 jaunt, my wife and I (with dog, Roscoe, in tow) stayed across the river from the ‘Insurance Capital of the World’ in a cheaper East Hartford hotel, traversing the one-mile Founders Bridge to once more peruse one of Connecticut’s finest craft beer havens.

Tucked inside the bustling metropolis next to the Constitution State’s Science Center and the Victorian-styled Old State House Square and just a few blocks from Mortensen River Front Plaza, City Steam has been a haven for local citizens and curious visitors since the mid-‘90s.

Brewer Ron Page has become a staple at this capacious three-level post. A flourishing Main Street hotspot in the architecturally Romanesque Cheney Building, the exquisite wood-furnished interior of the multi-tiered structure features a prim upstairs supper lounge, basement-level Brew Ha-Ha Comedy Club and ground floor sportsbar (with separate right side dining area, City Steam beer banners, Hull’s Export wall plaques, exposed ducts and multiple TV’s). Two wood-carved City Steam Brewery Cafe tap handle platforms serve Page’s latest offerings. A covered side deck offers further seating.

Besides boasting a terrific array of Page’s hand-crafted elixirs, there are specialty drinks, fine wines, martinis, nicely priced appetizers and enticing salads and sandwiches available alongside tasty full course dinners. Stone baked pizza, char-broiled burgers and beef entrees top the menu.

Copper brew tanks are located behind the primary Z-shaped bar at the front window and the upscale casual cuisine goes well with the diversified beer selections.

During my initial October ’05 visit, my family sat at the upstairs lounge for lunch as Big Band music played in the background.

The wide ranging beer assortment included light Belgian White ‘clone’ White Rabbit (with its spritz-y lemon-grapefruit tartness and grassy backdrop), fizzy grapefruit-embittered, corn-husked, light-bodied Colt 46, caramelized, crystal-malted, Fuggle-hopped City Steam Ale, butterscotch-honeyed, citric-softened Export Golden Lager, and dry tea-like, fig-dashed Naughty Nurse English Pale Ale.

Mild barley-roasted, black chocolate-soured, silken-spiced, coffee-finishing Poor Richard’s Porter and Scotch-tinged, peat-smoked, Band-Aid-tongued, honey-dripped, tobacco-dried The Flowers Of Edinburg suited more experimental tastes.

Highly recommended were bitterly high-hopped, red-fruited, floral-spiced, smoke-dashed Vampire Ale and delicately exquisite French-styled Biere De Garde – a creamy Scotch-licked cognac-warmed vanilla-maple-doused conqueror.

During March ’09 sojourn, met respected brewer Ron Page at ground level café. Enjoyed buttery, pine-hopped, tropical-fruited, orange-peeled, currant-embittered Carpenter’s Ale (with its tertiary apple-pear-nectarine illusions) first. Next, light-bodied, grassy-hopped, wood-dried, floral-fruited, perfume-tinged City Steam Export and fig-sugared, gourd-backed City Steam Dark Lager sufficed.

Black coffee-embittered, charcoal-ashen, black tea-sashayed, raisin-dashed Dierdre Does Dublin Irish Dry Stout maintained an aggressive hop char.

Best bet: dried-fruited, cocoa-buttered, vanilla-doused, macadamia-etched, banana taffy-finishing Hoopla Bock.

During sunny May ’10 afternoon jaunt, discovered five more City Steam faves. Peppery-hopped, floral-hazed, honey-glazed, lemon-candied Blonde Lager, bitterly pine-hopped, grapefruit-peeled, lemon-dried, herbal-honeyed, apricot-soured Acapulco Gold American IPA, and banana-clove-sweetened, lemon-herbed, German-styled Luscious Wheat set the table for complex Princess Of Darkness Dark Belgian-Style Ale, a convincing banana-bruised, apple-grape-prune-soured, Merlot-Chardonnay-burgundy-wined nightcap with stove-burnt coffee reminder.

On the dark side were chocolate-y cocoa-chalked, walnut-roasted, hazelnut-toasted City Steam Summer Stout and the more robust Baltic Imperial-styled Pugnacious Porter, a chocolate-sweet after dinner treat with dry coffee roast soaking pureed black cherry, maple oats, vanilla, and anise illusions.

During lunchtime break between daughter Nicki’s college tour of University of Connecticut (to the North) as well as Quinnipiac and Albertus Magnus (to the South), had the opportunity to revisit Goliath-sized microbrewery, August ’10. Pine-lacquered, perfume-hopped, cereal-grained Export Golden Lager retained lemony grapefruit tartness and went beyond mere stylistic alacrity. Better still, alcohol-smitten ‘experimental Belgian-styled IPA,’ Busted In Brussels, brought buttery dry-smoked Scotch malting to orange-spiced oaken cherry tartness and tertiary peach-pear fruiting.

After April ’12 Easter Sunday in Danbury, I woke up on a breezy Monday to journey once more to City Steam. This time I quaffed six previously untried brews while chomping on nacho platter with wife at ground level bar ’round noon.

On the light side, White Wedding, an unfiltered Belgian-styled witbier, retained a citric-fizzed lemon spritz, recessive banana-clove sweetness and mild white-black peppering. Light in appearance but not in flavor, bold Blonde On Blonde American Pale Ale could be mistaken for a brisk IPA with its lemony grapefruit-peeled bittering, resinous piney bark dryness, sneaky juniper hop prickle and humble peach-apple-pear conflux.

Strangely less bitter than the aforementioned pale ale, approachable Innocence IPA had an English-styled earthen mossiness and dried fig mustiness deepening its caramel apple snip.

On the dark side were two fine choices. Black Silk Oatmeal Stout, with its coffee-burnt dark chocolate chalking, toasted oats-honeyed molasses sapping and setback walnut oiling, maintained a mild richness.

A barleywine-styled tribute to a Jazz master, Dexter Gordon English Strong Ale spread sweet whiskey, Belgian chocolate, black grape, black cherry, plum, bourbon, molasses and cola illusions atop coarse charcoal-singed hop charred bittering.

Following dinner during May ’12 half-hour stint, got a chance to sample previously untried Uncle Dunkel, a busy German dunkelweiss with sharp hop toasting contrasting sugary brown chocolate sweetness, banana-chipped fig spicing and raisin-breaded molasses buttering to its mossy peat bottom.

www.citysteambrewerycafe.com

For a great selection of craft beers, try West Hartford’s diminutive Harvest Fine Wine and Spirits. Found local brews such as Cottrell Perry’s Revenge, Great New London American Blonde Ale, New England 668 Neighbor Of  The Beast and Narragansett Bock on April ’12 stopover.

RELIC BREWING

United States Brewpubs,

Image result for relic brewing

PLAINVILLE, CONNECTICUT

Just a few short miles south of Hartford lies garage-like RELIC BREWING, a tiny nanobrewery centering an industrial mall in Plainville, Connecticut. Opened around February 2012 by entrepreneurial spirit, Mark Sigman, Relic typically serves samplers and fills growlers on site during Friday evenings from 5 to 7 PM. And that’s when I stopped in for a quick May sojourn.

A dozen local denizens wait on line as Sigman and two female assistants keep busy pouring some well-done Anglo-American ales. These slightly hybridized elixirs have been making the rounds across the Constitution State in recent days and several regional festivals have featured Relic’s burgeoning lineup.

Arguably Relic’s best brew, Antiquity Old Ale brought molasses-sapped maple sugaring to fig-spiced raisin and plum illusions, leaving peat-y chocolate malts in its wake.

Nearly as worthy, Houndstooth Traditional English Mild gathered similar dried fruiting (raisin, plum, fig) and peat malting for a softer toned alternative with light hazelnut and almond influences.

Approachable Shipwright British Strong Ale sweetened its candied IPA-derived peach, pineapple, grapefruit and tangerine tang with pastry-like caramel malting.

A supposed adjunct lager, Whiting Street proved to be a brusque medium body contrasting its fizzy grassy-hopped prickle, tart lemon-peeled bittering and herbaceous vegetal tinge against pleasant sugary malts.

Look for 22 ounce bottles in local stores and tapped versions at various statewide gastropubs.

www.relicbeer.com