On tap at Poor Henry’s, sashaying smoked saison loses initial peat-smoked campfire insistence to moderate citrus tartness and mildly dry earthen leathering. Creamy wheat syruping contrasts dewy earthen rusticity as sweet orange-peeled grapefruit zest lingers behind. A wayward hybrid bereft of advertised smokiness by arid citrus-induced finish. In the bottle, peculiar ‘amber ale’ with peat-smoked barley and dewy wheat syruping gains Band-aid-like astringency. Buttery phenol residue invades murky orange-candied tartness and dry whiskey nip.

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