On tap at Growler & Gill, ‘reincarnated’ dry-hopped 2015 saison stays lightly tart as sour lemon-pitted musk and musty brettanomyces-influenced barnyard leathering outdo herbal tropicalia. Delicate grapefruit rind, orange zest and green grape influx picks up faded lemongrass, chamomile and peppercorn whims. Distant pineapple, mango, passionfruit, kumquat and lime illusions flutter softly.

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